Ill have to do some more reading on the WMO before I go dumping that in the tank. I did however give the 2 cycle a try. It was about 40 miles from filling up so I went ahead and dumped 1/3 of a quart into the tank and than filled it up with the Shell brand diesel. Im interested in its results. I have a little app for my phone that tracks fuel mileage and I will report back if its any different than the norm.
The only downside to the WMO that i ever saw was one guy made a pitiful YouTube video about it creates ash.. Which I guess gets blown out the tailpipe idk. Filtering is key, and i just didn't have the funds to get storage and filtering, plus like i said you don't want your provider to keep his wmo outside in the rain, or be filling it with anti freeze and every other thing. But it can definitely work I wish like hell i could get a filter, pump and supplier together it could be real free and no mods needed like wvo. Every day people just give away their oil changes they would gladly give it to you. Walmart and autozone allow people to dump up to 10 gallons a day free so they are sitting on TANKFULS like.. Yearly supplies.
The only downside to the WMO that i ever saw was one guy made a pitiful YouTube video about it creates ash.. Which I guess gets blown out the tailpipe idk. Filtering is key, and i just didn't have the funds to get storage and filtering, plus like i said you don't want your provider to keep his wmo outside in the rain, or be filling it with anti freeze and every other thing. But it can definitely work I wish like hell i could get a filter, pump and supplier together it could be real free and no mods needed like wvo. Every day people just give away their oil changes they would gladly give it to you. Walmart and autozone allow people to dump up to 10 gallons a day free so they are sitting on TANKFULS like.. Yearly supplies.
That is an awesome idea, I am wondering if synthetic oils have the same effect?
The reason places like Wal*Mart etc take used oil is they do actually recycle it. It gets run through a centrifuge and then they add whatever additives it needs to be brought back in spec. That's where most of the cheaper brands of oil get their supplies. Up here Canadian Tire have their "NuGold" line... Once you have that little tidbit of information you can see why they call it that. It used to be black, they made it "Nu" and "Gold" again.
With that in perspective, they don't really want to give it away.
You can run WMO up to a certain mix before it starts getting stinky. From what I've read anything beyond 50% will start to smell BAD after it is burned.
Filtration is definitely a big deal. After my last oil change the bottom of my drain pan had a fair bit of sand and grit from the bottom of the car that was knocked loose during the changing process. Wouldn't want to dump that in my tank. I don't think you have to go TOO far if you're only say taking the last 4 liters you drained out and mixing it with 40+L of real diesel - just strain it through a paint filter or a coffee filter or something to keep the bigger pieces out and make sure you are running a good quality fuel filter in the vehicle. If you want to run large quantities of it though then you probably want to invest in a more thorough filtration system.
If you're just blending with regular diesel it isn't going to hurt anything. It will however give you some otherwise "free" fuel and help thicken modern fuel up to closer to the old diesel specifications. It's not like most of you have catalytic converters to worry about or anything like that and as long as it's grit-free it definitely won't hurt the pump or injectors.
I've run various motor oils, auto transmission fluid and parowax in my fuel (not all at once!) without any ill effects. All of them provide additional lubrication for your injection pump. I've heard of someone on here (I think) who was running their car on a 50% mix of diesel and used hydraulic fluid since he was able to get it free from work. IDI engines really aren't picky as long as whatever the fuel is it doesn't eat seals, provides lubrication to the pump, burns and will flow through the injection lines. If you are planning on long term use of the engine, something that doesn't leave bad deposits (ie the glycerin in vegetable oil) is also a plus.
reading over the eco fuel saver stuff (BS as far as i can tell, but what did i get a chemistry degree for anyways?) they claim it literally splits carbon chains into shorter ones... i'm skeptical here, I also from a few pages back... still don't buy the "added viscosity in the fuel changes pump pressure/behavior and in turn changes timing" i think it is more likely these different mixes reach flash point at a different compression/temperature point, and that advances/retards timing. I for one would like to see a TDI that monitored its own stroke compression and lambda values along with fuel viscosity/temperature and adjusted injection pattern and pressure accordingly. that would be a truly multi-fuel engine. maybe even two sets of common rail injectors and two pumps off one computer for a two tank setup, one for WVO(or whatever else was around) and the other optimized for regular diesel. now i'm really daydreaming though.
Regarding the Eco Fuel Saver: I'm rather skeptical that adding .5cc of some mystery fluid to a litre of diesel is going to increase my mileage by 25%, but I'm curious enough about it to give one bottle a try. I'm planning on a trip of about 1000 miles in my 93 Dodge Cummins diesel in a couple of weeks, so I'll test it then and post up the results. I guess that's really all the company needs is for everybody to be curious enough to try it once, and they've made their fortune
"Because of its high octane content, ethanol soon established a role as an octane enhancer" THERE IS NO OCTANE IN ETHANOL.
I stopped reading that article after that, whats the point...
and if you read through the Eco-Saver stuff, and actually read the "case studies" they post on their page are less than conclusive, and some even contradict their own claims. One study even shows that there is no significant change in the fuel chemistry, and thats why it doesn't void your warranty, when the whole premise is that it does something significant to your fuel's chemistry.
If its too good to be true it usually is just that...
The testimonials in this thread of the forum prove that these engines will run on pretty much any remotely flammable liquid, as to if any of this is actually good for your engine is up for debate still I guess. My rig costs me enough to maintain without being too brave with what I fill up on, I wish I had tons of money to invest in science experiments and prototype engines, but my ancient impractical vehicles keep bleeding me for all I'm worth
There's alot to be said for that fact that if you are expecting better mileage or more power, you will somewhat unconsiously adjust your driving habits to produce the desired results. I strongly suspect there's some of this going on with the "Eco Fuel Saver" testimonials. I'll bet most people don't record their fuel consumption over a number of tankfulls, so when they put in some additive and start keeping track, they say "Wow, l got X number of miles on this tankfull. It's really working!"
There's alot to be said for that fact that if you are expecting better mileage or more power, you will somewhat unconsiously adjust your driving habits to produce the desired results. I strongly suspect there's some of this going on with the "Eco Fuel Saver" testimonials. I'll bet most people don't record their fuel consumption over a number of tankfulls, so when they put in some additive and start keeping track, they say "Wow, l got X number of miles on this tankfull. It's really working!"
I have been keeping a fuel log for as long as I have had a vehicle. Ol' pops recommended it as a way to diagnose trouble early. I used to keep a little note pad and pen and kept a mileage log. Now I have an app on my Android called FuelLog that works great. Simple, easy to use, and the pay version allows you to keep some notes and other stuff.
I dumped a third of a quart of 2 cycle in the tank as mentioned above on a fill up so I am interested in seeing any difference now as the last five fill ups have averaged 28 MPG.
reading over the eco fuel saver stuff (BS as far as i can tell, but what did i get a chemistry degree for anyways?) they claim it literally splits carbon chains into shorter ones... i'm skeptical here, I also from a few pages back... still don't buy the "added viscosity in the fuel changes pump pressure/behavior and in turn changes timing" i think it is more likely these different mixes reach flash point at a different compression/temperature point, and that advances/retards timing. I for one would like to see a TDI that monitored its own stroke compression and lambda values along with fuel viscosity/temperature and adjusted injection pattern and pressure accordingly. that would be a truly multi-fuel engine. maybe even two sets of common rail injectors and two pumps off one computer for a two tank setup, one for WVO(or whatever else was around) and the other optimized for regular diesel. now i'm really daydreaming though.
no dude, thick fuel makes for more advance..
think of it this way.
you have a hole, it is xx inches across, and has xx psi pressure
is it going to be easier for 10w oil to get thru the hole, or easier for 90w oil to get thru the hole?
its easier for the un-treated diesel to get thru the out bolt than the thickened up fuel..
so, in the end, yes, it does make things run better, especially if the pump is soo worn that it cant build enough internal pressure.
"Because of its high octane content, ethanol soon established a role as an octane enhancer" THERE IS NO OCTANE IN ETHANOL.
Octane is a rating they give to gasoline. The higher the octane number the more resistant to detonation/preignition.
Ethanol has a higher octane rating than any pump gas and most race gas.
diesel has an octane rating (all be it very low) so why wouldnt ethanol?
Thanks R.O.R. I so wanted to come back on his use of my statement but NOW I don't have too.
I was thinking of just about the same analogy. Thick fluid needs more pressure to make same volume. Remember the source of the initial information. Chemist not mechanical engineer or guy with a garden hose. Pressure is everything in the Bosch Pump. The manual cites it over and over.
Again Thanks for saving me time and possible embarrassment.