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#15
by
Powjetta
on 07 Aug, 2011 12:18
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Now I see the details in the fuel mileage thread in troubleshooting - thanks.
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#16
by
Vanagoner
on 07 Aug, 2011 14:37
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re: the topic, I run seafoam sometimes, and power service in the winter. Best additive ever has been Schaffer's EP molybdenum treatment. Awesome stuff. Pretty much a one-time deal to treat. Raised my mpg by 1 or 2, and saved my bacon on a couple of occasions with no oil pressure (air pump seized once and stopped the oil pump). No damage.
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re: Wax, I have a friend that wants to get rid of some kerosene. I know it is too "dry" to run by itself, would it work to dissolve wax in there to make it right? Does the wax ever separtate out of the fuel? I'm going to park it over the winter.
Thanks
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#17
by
ORCoaster
on 07 Aug, 2011 15:26
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So the Schaffer stuff is crankcase oil treatment? I think my engine is so loose inside it needs new rings. Then maybe something to reduce that friction.
According to the late Hagar, if you happened to wax your fuel and the temps went down then you could be saved by adding some kerosene. So I think you could get away with the mix. If you park it over the winter then plan ahead. Burn out the waxy fuel and refill with straight diesel and perhaps some of the other additives that are geared to stabilize fuel. Not sure what products are out there for that, I can't let my VW rest until I park it for the few days I work and use the mass transit.
So yeah, wax up the kerosene double or triple, 4-6 oz in the 10 gallon tank. Shoot Hagar would have you dropping a full pound in there just so you could see the result. But he was a little extreme at times.
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#18
by
stanton.samuel
on 07 Aug, 2011 18:33
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i'm new to this, but won't all the different additives change the flash point and essentially either retard or advance your timing? I'm running B99 cause its readily available and about 50-70 cents a gallon cheaper here in rhode island than diesel from the pump (no road tax on B99 here if the source oil is local), but i was just thinking the wax could be retarding timing and eliminating the "diesel knock" noise rather than lubing away the noise, my engine is super f-ing loud i wish i could make it quiet with a bit of paraffin. maybe i should try putting my muffler back on first though
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#19
by
wdkingery
on 07 Aug, 2011 18:45
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I put 1/4 pound of wax per tank.
My diesel does not have the diesel noise at all, once warm
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#20
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 07 Aug, 2011 21:34
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i'm new to this, but won't all the different additives change the flash point and essentially either retard or advance your timing? I'm running B99 cause its readily available and about 50-70 cents a gallon cheaper here in rhode island than diesel from the pump (no road tax on B99 here if the source oil is local), but i was just thinking the wax could be retarding timing and eliminating the "diesel knock" noise rather than lubing away the noise, my engine is super f-ing loud i wish i could make it quiet with a bit of paraffin. maybe i should try putting my muffler back on first though
wax changes the timing values because of viscosity (thickness) of the fuel.
thicker fuel builds more pressure in the fuel pump..
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#21
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 07 Aug, 2011 21:46
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i'm new to this, but won't all the different additives change the flash point and essentially either retard or advance your timing? I'm running B99 cause its readily available and about 50-70 cents a gallon cheaper here in rhode island than diesel from the pump (no road tax on B99 here if the source oil is local), but i was just thinking the wax could be retarding timing and eliminating the "diesel knock" noise rather than lubing away the noise, my engine is super f-ing loud i wish i could make it quiet with a bit of paraffin. maybe i should try putting my muffler back on first though
wax changes the timing values because of viscosity (thickness) of the fuel.
thicker fuel builds more pressure in the fuel pump..
Don't forget it also reduces friction...
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#22
by
ORCoaster
on 07 Aug, 2011 23:00
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Stanton. S. You say you are running Biodiesel. That is just diesel from a different oil. Still skinny and I would say yes to adding paraffin to it. The fuel is in need of making it thick to be able to build pressure. As R.O.R says, thick fuel changes timing, wax makes it thick. Simple as apple pie.
If you are an Oregonian what the heck are you doing in RI buying cheap fuel, come back home and pay 4.20 a gallon like the rest of us.
Actually I found a place here in Portland doing 3.71/gal So I "filled it" 6.4 gallons. Whhooopppppeeee.
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#23
by
silentdub
on 08 Aug, 2011 12:04
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At every fill up, I add 3 ounces of Acetone to every 10 gal of fuel, Diesel or petro, doesn't matter.
It helps the fuel to atomize better, especially petrol with Ethanol in it.
I can see anywhere from 25 to 50 miles per tank more.
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#24
by
ORCoaster
on 08 Aug, 2011 15:13
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The only experience I have with Acetone is cleaning the water off chemistry equipment in Organic Chem Lab. It sure was cold to the touch and I think EPA now calls it a carcinigen. Along with our gasser friends benzene.
Flash point anyone? Time to go find an MSDS.
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#25
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 08 Aug, 2011 15:18
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At every fill up, I add 3 ounces of Acetone to every 10 gal of fuel, Diesel or petro, doesn't matter.
It helps the fuel to atomize better, especially petrol with Ethanol in it.
I can see anywhere from 25 to 50 miles per tank more.
Now that's interesting... Won't that promote wear in the injection pump? Would injecting into the intake be more beneficial?
Diesels are funny things really, because they never seem to suffer from incomplete combustion, unless flooring it, hence no CO poisoning.
Thinking about your figures, then that 3 oz is like 5 to 10% improvement, or like another gallon of fuel at the old economy rate.
Finding the secret tuning spot for a particular engine gives dramatic improvement.
Remember, because this is a swirl chamber, degree of atomization is not crucial, as the droplets are torn apart by the 'wind.'
My top mpg's are with second user injectors set to 135bar. However I'm not saying that I couldn't get better with new 155bar, but I've not managed so far
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#26
by
ORCoaster
on 08 Aug, 2011 21:21
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I recently had all my injectors rebuilt and they are the 135 ones. I thought about asking for them to pop at a lower value but couldn't decide on 130 or 127 so I just figure as they get old they would pop different.
50 MPG American.
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#27
by
dts67
on 09 Aug, 2011 08:50
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Only fuel additive Ive ever actually seen/heard a difference with is 2 stroke oil.
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#28
by
silentdub
on 09 Aug, 2011 11:54
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At every fill up, I add 3 ounces of Acetone to every 10 gal of fuel, Diesel or petro, doesn't matter.
It helps the fuel to atomize better, especially petrol with Ethanol in it.
I can see anywhere from 25 to 50 miles per tank more.
Now that's interesting... Won't that promote wear in the injection pump? Would injecting into the intake be more beneficial?
[/quote]
I'm not really sure, we are talking about 3 ounces mixed with 10 gallons, most of it will evaporate almost immediately, but the bi product is making the fuel a little less unstable so it fans out better. I did see a difference, I have 217K miles on my daily and my commute to work, I was getting 4.5 days from a tank, I can now get a full 5 days, after several runs, I can get 25-50 more miles per tank.
This is especially accurate in Gassers as the ethanol added actually makes atomization worse, this basically reverses that problem and still help a little above and beyond that.
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#29
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 09 Aug, 2011 14:25
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At every fill up, I add 3 ounces of Acetone to every 10 gal of fuel, Diesel or petro, doesn't matter.
It helps the fuel to atomize better, especially petrol with Ethanol in it.
I can see anywhere from 25 to 50 miles per tank more.
Now that's interesting... Won't that promote wear in the injection pump? Would injecting into the intake be more beneficial?
I'm not really sure, we are talking about 3 ounces mixed with 10 gallons, most of it will evaporate almost immediately, but the bi product is making the fuel a little less unstable so it fans out better. I did see a difference, I have 217K miles on my daily and my commute to work, I was getting 4.5 days from a tank, I can now get a full 5 days, after several runs, I can get 25-50 more miles per tank.
This is especially accurate in Gassers as the ethanol added actually makes atomization worse, this basically reverses that problem and still help a little above and beyond that.
[/quote]
the problem with ethanol, is that it needs about a 9:1 air fuel ratio.. we run about 14.7 on most gassers, or try to..
that ethanol just makes it go lean..
gas jetting does NOT work with ethanol..
ehtanol is JUNK, why would they put it in our gasoline? just to collect water and cause headaches?