Bently head gasket torque procedure

[jb86]

I have decided to use the aaz metal gasket
Torque as an aaz engine spec
Use new oem bolts
The metal gasket isn't affected like the fiber gasket
I ordered the gasket from German Autoparts
For 1993-1996 (I think) golf jetta
I think German auto said it's a Canadian idi n/a
Not us built
But specifically aaz code
Torque As an aaz
30lbs, 44lbs, 1/4 turn, 1/4 turn
No more re torquing
Stronger than the original fiber 1.6 gasket
Same fit as the 1v hydraulic head
Jon

[745 turbogreasel]

The final quarter turn is required with a fiber gasket because the gasket will compress with each heat/cool cycle and eventually stop returning to it's as-new thickness. 1000 miles gives enough time for the gasket to reach a consistent working thickness and the bolts need to be turned in to make up for this. Every fiber gasketed engine I've worked on, all the way back to pre-war American stuff requires a re-torque after a few heat/cool cycles. Metal gaskets don't compress and therefore don't require a retorque.

Chris

If  this is the case, why were the makers of my studs  so specific about not retorquing?

[Luckypabst]

That's a vague question that could be taken under any context. Are you talking VW engines? ARP studs? What's the intended application of those studs? Why so quick to challenge what I posted? Do you disagree? And why?

I'm relating my experience, as it applies to our 1.6 engines.


Chris

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

Lol...
Mark, I got as far as 'KATE', didn't know what the hell that was then skipped the rest. Engine codes don't help either, as long as you know what you have regarding gaskets, hardware and displacement. 'MF' means something foul to me... 'Me' is I, as far as I'm concerned... Cy played baseball....

I get frustrated when I see what could be a straightforward answer (same torque procedure for all 1.6 with fiber HG and stretch bolts) get lost in a bunch of speculation and discussion about torque values, which really shouldn't be considered when talking angular specs.

The final quarter turn is required with a fiber gasket because the gasket will compress with each heat/cool cycle and eventually stop returning to it's as-new thickness. 1000 miles gives enough time for the gasket to reach a consistent working thickness and the bolts need to be turned in to make up for this. Every fiber gasketed engine I've worked on, all the way back to pre-war American stuff requires a re-torque after a few heat/cool cycles. Metal gaskets don't compress and therefore don't require a retorque.

Chris

All as I said... I used the term KATE, because I dont like using it's anagram EKTA, because noone outside of VW is mean't to have access to it. I believe the software owners do a key word scan every so often and find illicit users... Because metal gaskets don't compress, then head and block need to be in good condition.  KATE say the 1V uses same head, same gaskets and same bolts, so same torque procedure IMO

[Luckypabst]

Agreed.

Time for a beer. I gotta cold one for all y'all here in my buddy's basement in central IA.

Chris

[745 turbogreasel]

That's a vague question that could be taken under any context. Are you talking VW engines? ARP studs? What's the intended application of those studs? Why so quick to challenge what I posted? Do you disagree? And why?

I'm relating my experience, as it applies to our 1.6 engines.


Chris

VW diesel, the 1.6 ones.  I wasn't sure, so I called Raceware and asked.  They said 'no retorque, no super slippy lube.'

[Luckypabst]

Can't help you. I've no experience with Raceware.

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

She's running!  I only ran it for a minute since coolant (100% water) is dribbling out a corroded temp sensor on the head (the one below the oil pressure switch by the cam lock slot). The metal shearh on the sensor has been eaten away and is leaking past the o-ring.

For the first heat cycle torque, should I idle it till the fans come on or drive it gingerly till the fans come on before retorque? I don't really want to drive it till I get a new sensor put in even though it's a slow leak.

[theman53]

Don't drive it. If you have a block heater plug it in for an hour then start it. In the summer heat it will get up to around 170F with just the block heater. I don't like using the engine when the gasket isn't fully tight. I let mine go overnight 2 times with just the block heater so I didn't have to run it. 23:1 on the HG not fully torque just seems too much for me. I know it works but just seems like a bit much. Driving it and increasing the pressure inside I would think to be a huge no no.

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

No block heater on mine. I don't recall a block heater in the Bently torque procedure.

[theman53]

No they didn't have one in there procedure. Sometimes I wonder if you read what I post.

Think about it. They are having you start the engine to build heat.

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

No they didn't have one in there procedure. Sometimes I wonder if you read what I post.

Think about it. They are having you start the engine to build heat.

I did read and understood what you posted. How else to build heat unless you start the engine? For VW's shipped to the tropics where they are not fitted with block heaters, what are you supposed to do? Build a fire under the engine? Keep pouring hot water on the engine? Put the car in a big oven?

[theman53]

Sounds like you got it.

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

Sounds like you got it.

I assume when VW says to bring the engine to operating tempereture, they mean thermostat open and fan kicked on? That's around 203F on the radiator switch. A block heater will not even get close to 203F.

I assume you torque that 1/4 turn immediately after reaching operating temp and not witingg after it cools down?

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

No they didn't have one in there procedure. Sometimes I wonder if you read what I post.

Think about it. They are having you start the engine to build heat.

I did read and understood what you posted. How else to build heat unless you start the engine? For VW's shipped to the tropics where they are not fitted with block heaters, what are you supposed to do? Build a fire under the engine? Keep pouring hot water on the engine? Put the car in a big oven?

Grr 
You're doing fine, just letting it idle does the job with a few high revs under no load, so no or very little chamber pressure increase beyond that of idle. Well that's how I do it,  and As Elton would say "I'm still standing"