1.9L TD AAZ into a 2.slow shell (SWAP) - MK3

[Golf/Jetta]

I'll soon begin my first diesel swap replacing a Mk3 2.0L engine and keeping that Lager input shaft tranny.
I mostly have everything in order but correct me if I'm wrong. Before I stored the engine, I ran pure ATF through the system for 5 min. then turned the key off as I was getting low on ATF

Things I've checked out that are going to be replaced or added.
Fuel filter and bracket.
Exhaust pipes
Air filter box or cone
Throttle/Accelerator Cable
Advanced timing cable - not to be done till after the swap, before winter maybe
12v (ignition)
12v Glow plug power switch
210mm large input shaft clutch (do i have this right, will it work? Keeping the 1.9L pressure plate and flywheel as they look new)

I've searched out the size of the 2.0L Gas and the 1.9L Diesel clutch disc and both stated 210mm

Other repairs/replacements that going to happen during the swap.
Transmission main input shaft, main outputs and clutch rod seal
Steering rack
Shifter bushing
Oil and oil filter replacement

Repairs need to be done after the swap.
Wiper motor rack
Timing belt
Tensioner
Crank, cam and Oil pump seal/intermediate shaft seal¿?
Wheel bearings, tires and alignment

[mystery3]

Repairs need to be done after the swap.
Timing belt
Tensioner
Crank, cam and Oil pump seal/intermediate shaft seal¿?

I don't know much about the aaz and or associated clutch/pp combos but the stuff you've listed above is much easier to do while the motor is out of either shell no?

[Golf/Jetta]

Repairs need to be done after the swap.
Timing belt
Tensioner
Crank, cam and Oil pump seal/intermediate shaft seal¿?

I don't know much about the aaz and or associated clutch/pp combos but the stuff you've listed above is much easier to do while the motor is out of either shell no?

It would be just as easy (less things in the way or maneuver around) except the initial timing.

[Golf/Jetta]

I hit a snag. Do I replace the internal fuel pump in the tank or keep it in place? Do I leave it off or have it running when the ignition is on?

When the fuel pump is running it hisses through the injection pump like there is no tomorrow throwing out any kinda bubbles out but hey, it took no time to prime.
I would like to turn it down a bit or only use it to pump the system when the other drive forget to fuel up.

I could rig up a small separate tank with three ports. 1 coming in from the pump, one going to the filter and other one going to the return line with a T connection in place going back to the tank.

I did find on the web (not too much) that the pump can produce up to 80 PSI. I wonder if its like that before the pump and/or in the pump. So far I haven't seen any leaks or the smell of diesel.
 
I'm currently waiting on a heater hose (Tuesday Sept. 6) from the side block to the heater core to run the engine longer then a minute.

The engine sat for almost two years now and so far it a common diesel that sat for two years. I actual seen some diesel sit for a year and not wanting to start at all. Which is weird and not, cause before I shut it down two years ago, I had ran straight ATF for a few minutes.

Now as I try to start the engine up I have to WOT (wide open throttle) to even idle but as it gets warmer I have to let go of the throttle more and more just to stay Idle.
Sticky injectors? I'd say so. Might even need to clean the injector, I guess over time they will clean them selves up a bit.

Yes timing is dead on. I ran before I shut it down.

[vanbcguy]

Generally that's a sign of fuel starvation - was this with or without the in-tank pump running?

[Golf/Jetta]

Generally that's a sign of fuel starvation - was this with or without the in-tank pump running?

Currently with the intank fuel pump running. It gets better and better as it warms up but its gets back the way it use to be when you let the engine cool down over night. There is no bubbles when the pump is running but there is bubbles when the pump it off so I have a vacuum leak in the intake fuel line when the intank pump is off.

So far I was able to get it to idle with half throttle. I checked to see if the injection pump is pumping and it is pumping a good flow.

I also plan to run other tank near the injection pump if it persists after I get that heater hose from the side of the block going to the heater core.

I might wanna check the fuel solenoid and clean it up a bit as it does sound less clacky when I supply 12v to it then my other diesels. 

[vanagonturbo]

Do not use the stock gasser pump in the tank. It will blow out all the seals in the IP and cause running problems. You will need a MKIII diesel sending unit to put in place of the stock gasser pump. You might be able to get away with just leaving the gasser pump disconnected from power, but its likely that you will run into a fuel starvation problem during WOT pulls. Not fun. I had to sit on the side of the freeway for 15 minutes to get everything primed again on my Scirocco cause I left the stock gasser pump inline (no power to it though).

[Golf/Jetta]

Do not use the stock gasser pump in the tank. It will blow out all the seals in the IP and cause running problems. You will need a MKIII diesel sending unit to put in place of the stock gasser pump. You might be able to get away with just leaving the gasser pump disconnected from power, but its likely that you will run into a fuel starvation problem during WOT pulls. Not fun. I had to sit on the side of the freeway for 15 minutes to get everything primed again on my Scirocco cause I left the stock gasser pump inline (no power to it though).

Thanks for the info.. I don't feel like having any problems so I ripped out the pump and placed the diesel sending unit in there as I already had one from the donor car three years ago.

As for the idle issue, I had to adjust the pumps smoke screw and idle screw a bit to get the engine to even idle properly as if someone played with the setting. Smoke screws collar was missing before I even bought it. Could it be a timing issue that is causing me to up the smoke screw?

The exhaust past the down pipe hooks up nicely in place but due to the gaping holes in the mufflers beyond the cat and straight pipe, it will be replaced as there hardly any exhaust pressure coming from the tail pipe.

Electrical Work
Fuel sending unit Connection - working (1/4 full)
Alternator Connection -working (Voltage 13.6) (Blue wire?)

Low pressure oil indicator - connected the wire Blue with a white strip (not working yet)
High pressure oil indicator - connected the wire Blue with a black strip (not working yet)
Coolant Temp. not working yet
Fuel solenoid - connected to the ign. coil 12+ but it only worked for a minute then it died.
Glow plugs are not operating yet.

[rodpaslow]

I disagree about not using the gasser fuel pump.  It is much easier to use it and just get a holley fuel pressure regulator, Holley 12-803 for $28.00 that regulates fuel pressure between 4.5-9 psi depending where it's set.  I have a 96 MK3 with the stock gas fuel pump with this regulator.  I have had no problems with this setup and its going over 2 years now.  The only thing you may need to do is remove or I put slits in the restrictor at the inlet to the tank - around here we have some fueling stations that use truck/tractor size diesel pump ends. (slits allow it to take a bigger diameter - remove the little valve that closes in the inlet to the tank first.

[Golf/Jetta]

Does anybody know...
Which wires are used to connect the coolant temp sensor up to the cluster? at the engine? I've tried to find matching wire but couldn't?
Edit:  The wire that works for the guage on the cluster is brown and blue/white wire. It is the same for the gas engines.

What can I do about the oil pressure sensor for the cluster to stop blinking? switch the gas one over to the diesel to shut it up?
Edit: I found out there the same pressure switch for both the top and the bottom. I must of mixed up the wires for the one above the filter
ABA - Green Wire
AZZ - Yellow Wire

Same colored wire for the .3 bar oil switch on the side of the head.

As for the Glow plugs I haven't decided if I want to use a manual system and add the computer in to do the job.

[vanagonturbo]

I disagree about not using the gasser fuel pump.  It is much easier to use it and just get a holley fuel pressure regulator, Holley 12-803 for $28.00 that regulates fuel pressure between 4.5-9 psi depending where it's set.  I have a 96 MK3 with the stock gas fuel pump with this regulator.  I have had no problems with this setup and its going over 2 years now.  The only thing you may need to do is remove or I put slits in the restrictor at the inlet to the tank - around here we have some fueling stations that use truck/tractor size diesel pump ends. (slits allow it to take a bigger diameter - remove the little valve that closes in the inlet to the tank first.

the problem is that if that pump fails, you could be stuck on the road for a little bit.  Imagine what kind of restriction is going to happen if the electric pump fails with that regulator in there. There is also the issue that if a line between the regulator and the pump fails, you are spraying fuel every where at 80psi until you notice and *somehow* turn the pump off as it is not operated by a computer any longer and is likely wired to constant key on power. Then there is the other problem that need to purchase an additional part to make it work when there is no need for it.

[Golf/Jetta]

Got the car running and drivable 30km from the swap site. It wasn't a joy ride home on low RPMS but after the turbo kicks the LDA on, boy does it ever go. The car will be a short runner. The clutch was really tight but a reset to the self-adjuster cleared things up. Talk about riding the clutch for 30km.

Things to work out
The instrument cluster doesn't work when you let go the e-brake.
oil pressure switch (same part number on 2.0 and 1.9)

Temperature Gauge
only goes up to 70 oC, rad hose at the bottom gets hot, rad fan doesn't kick on(it use to work so I know it does. will test it out)

Fuel Gauge hasn't moved from 1/4 of a tank
It could be stuck but then again I just put fuel in it.

Things To Do
Smoke screw needs to be adjusted more in.
Ground wire to the instrument cluster needs to be grounded as the cluster goes out completely while driving (clock resets).
12v off the ignition from the alarm module for the fuel stop solenoid.
*Temp. sensor may need to be replaced (i'll see when the smoke screw is turned up, the air does get hot out the vents going up hills on fan speed 4)
Check boost pressure for over boost.
Timing advance cable needs to be installed.
Glow Plugs - Either do a simple job (solenoid with a push bottom or install the proper computer that the MK3s have to offer [emission controller/less white smoke on cold runs/turns on when the driver door opens])


Later
Timing belt, tensioner and T-Stat

[Henchman]

Later
Timing belt, tensioner and T-Stat

This should have been first!  Like before the engine went back in!   Not only is it MUCH easier, but the first 2 are going-to-fail items!


Did you keep the cluster from the diesel parts car (assuming it was a mk3)?  If not, let me know....    The rad fan control can be a lot of fun to get going....  There are minor changes from year to year and engine to engine.  To get mine working properly I needed diagrams from 3 different cars.   As for the glow plug setup, my b3 conversion uses a single relay (can't give you the number right now) in the engine bay (as most of what the relay needs to work properly is there anyways).

Ian

[Golf/Jetta]

Later
Timing belt, tensioner and T-Stat

This should have been first!  Like before the engine went back in!   Not only is it MUCH easier, but the first 2 are going-to-fail items!


Did you keep the cluster from the diesel parts car (assuming it was a mk3)?  If not, let me know....    The rad fan control can be a lot of fun to get going....  There are minor changes from year to year and engine to engine.  To get mine working properly I needed diagrams from 3 different cars.   As for the glow plug setup, my b3 conversion uses a single relay (can't give you the number right now) in the engine bay (as most of what the relay needs to work properly is there anyways).

Ian

The parts car I picked up had a gasser cluster in it.

Today I turned up the smoke screw and caught the rad fan turning on. The temp gauge is still reading low but the heat coming off the engine is greatly normal. I leaned towards a Vince Waldon pimped out glow plug system up but used a push bottom instead of figuring out all those wires/relays for the glow plug system. Its not pimped but it works.

Thanks to Vinces site, I Might be able to produce a two LED lights off the oil pressure switchs to see if there functioning properly since the cluster can't tell my RPMS and the turbo boosts up around 2000 RPMS.

[Golf/Jetta]

So far in every attempt trying to fix the coolant gauge, all has failed. I've tried using the 2.0L gas engine sensor, tried a new one. The gauge will not go past 70 oC , more in the middle from 0 to 70, lets say 35 on average. I wonder if the wires run up to the ECU is causing a little resistance. Shouldn't it be already hooked straight to the cluster?

Edit: Today while I was playing around with the wires from the gas engine. I noticed there was a change in wire pin outs verses the diesels. So if you had problems like I did; Connecting the yellow/red wire to the blue/white wire and ground is ground solved my problem and the gauge on the instrument cluster started reading correctly. It seems connecting the blue/white to blue/white wire gave an incorrect reading.

While I was looking at wires, I notice a little bit of oil coming out the lower oil pressure pressure switch (Grey) where you slide on the connector. I ended up replacing the pressure switch (Black) and it kinda bubbling up from the same area (Due to the heat it was bubbling). This is the next thing on my list to fix after I join (solder) the coolant wire up properly. And no I still don't have a proper cluster to put in. I imagine there wicked amount of pressure going on down there.