Stiff/stuck cold start advance lever

[JGWarner]

In the course of my Fox TD project I removed, cleaned, and re-installed the IP, all this time with a freely moving cold start advance arm/lever.
Then installed the cable to control it, still moved freely with the cable and by hand.
Then I timed the engine, set the lift timing on the pump (using the dial indicator method), turned it over a few revolutions in the course of setting all the timings, and now my cold advance lever is jammed in the off position. I can barely move it by hand, and the cable doesn't stand a chance of budging it.

What did I do?

[theman53]

try and start it. Mine feels like the cable is going to break if I pull it and it isn't running or cranking. Might be all that it is since it is in a new spot???

[R.O.R-2.0]

try and start it. Mine feels like the cable is going to break if I pull it and it isn't running or cranking. Might be all that it is since it is in a new spot???

if the cam plate is getting ready to travel UP the rollers, then you have the spring force from the plunger, trying to push the cam plate back down the rollers, but then you activate the cold start advance, and it moves the rollers a little farther up the cam plate bumps.

[8v-of-fury]

Yes either start it, or turn the motor another 1/4 turn by hand. See if that helps.

[JGWarner]

Thanks guys, I'll try that tonight. Definitely feels like I'm fighting the tension of the timing belt/motor. I guess I was freaking out for no reason!

[R.O.R-2.0]

if the cold start advance is hard to pull when before i start my car, i put a little tension on the cold start knob, hit the key, then i pull the cold start as the engine is turning over, and then the knob pretty much flies out..

[damac]

If we are not talking about binding up inside the pump, I stumbled on something on another forum as far as the cable routing goes.   If you don't route that thing right it can tweak enough to get stuck, etc.

For me the missing link was some small vw bushings that go around that piece in the arm that you screw the cable down to!  It makes it so it tracks correctly and doesn't go cockeyed, etc.  My pumps never had any on there so it was amazing to get the new ones and set the cable and tighten down and have it work the first time!  Not tracking straight would allow the slack to hit things.

[JGWarner]

Part numbers please!

I did think it was odd how that little metal cylinder just floated around loose in the lever.

[R.O.R-2.0]

are you talking about the bushing for the cable bracket? or for the cable connection at the end of the actual arm?

[damac]

Here is the vw part # 068-130-337

Here is a pic from another thread

[JGWarner]

thank you!

[ORCoaster]

I had those washer/ bushings crack on me and I found some very close in diameter at the hardware store.  Only needed a little filing with a fine toothed file to make them work. Outside diameter was spot on.  Lever works flawlessly now.

[R.O.R-2.0]

Here is the vw part # 068-130-337

Here is a pic from another thread

HOLY CRAP!! ive never seen those before! none of my pumps have those..

[RadoTD]

HOLY CRAP!! ive never seen those before! none of my pumps have those..

My pump's got the same cold advance as that.... right under the idle adjustment. Where's the lever on your pumps for cold start advance?

[R.O.R-2.0]

HOLY CRAP!! ive never seen those before! none of my pumps have those..

My pump's got the same cold advance as that.... right under the idle adjustment. Where's the lever on your pumps for cold start advance?

the bushings, not the cold start lever..