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Tdi oilpan and filter flange fit on 1.6 hydro block??
by
8v-of-fury
on 25 May, 2011 11:57
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I am looking to put the intake (yes I know different ports.. But it will be better than no turbo!), exhaust mani and turbo, filter flange and turbo feed line, and the oil pan and return line on to my 1.6 off of my TDI if it is possible!
Its the smaller KO3 but that will be fully spooled by 2000 rpm's and that's friggan awesome!
CAN WE MAKE IT WORK??
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#1
by
Quantum TD
on 25 May, 2011 12:26
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The TDI will not have the bung for the oil return. They return to the block, and your 1.6na will not have the port for it. So, you'll also need an oil return line too.
The oil filter flange will not work either. The 1.6 has a different plate profile than the later AAZ, AHU, and 1Z filter flanges (I'm assuming you're not talking about an ALH motor).
For the filter flange, you can get just about any MK2 gasser oil flange and drill/tap it for the fitting for the oil feed line.
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#2
by
8v-of-fury
on 25 May, 2011 12:37
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Ok, that's a bummer.
I can get a 1.6 TD pan with the neck and return line fitting on it.. But I doubt the ko3 drain line will bolt up to that..
Also what size thread is the high pressure oil switch on the filter housing? Can I put the turbo feed there? Will it be the same as the feed fitting on the tdi flange?
that sucks that the tdi drained in to the block.. Lol
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#3
by
81 vw pu
on 25 May, 2011 12:40
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I ran the TDI intake on my 1.6 for almost a year before I found a 1.6TD intake.
I used the stock 1.6 gasket with no problems ( never over 15 lbs. boost).
When I changed to 1.6 TD intake there were no signs of gasket failure.
Boost and power was about the same.
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#4
by
Quantum TD
on 25 May, 2011 13:06
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The oil pressure switch uses a different thread size and pitch. You will have to drill it larger and then tap it with an 11mm 1.5 pitch I think. You can use the fitting off the TDI flange.
And yes, you'll have to fabricate an oil return hose. It should cost about $40-80 at any hydraulic shop.
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#5
by
8v-of-fury
on 25 May, 2011 13:44
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Ok now what about this...
If I bend my own hard/feed line from my 1.6 filter flange and its fitting to the turbo? Hmm maybe that way I'll run in to issues with the two fittings needing to be way different..
I will be atleast gasket matching my tdi intake or 1.6 head to be less of a turbulence area.
Or just source a 1.6td intake! Lol
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#6
by
8v-of-fury
on 25 May, 2011 13:52
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Also here is another question, with all the TDI stuff.. Could I look to make good power? I mean atleast %15 less from being IDI.. And maybe another %10 for flow restrictions?
I plan to run a cold air breather and a straight exHaust.
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#7
by
81 vw pu
on 25 May, 2011 14:46
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For oil feed line I used the stock 1.6 filter flange, just drilled and tapped for 1/8 pipe x -4an fitting.
36" -4an braided line to turbo with -4an x? fitting at turbo oil inlet, (took turbo to hyd. hose shop for
the turbo oil line adapter fitting and can't recall size) Total price of oil feed line with new oil filter flange gasket $35.
For oil drain I welded a 1/2" steel pipe bung in pan as close to pan rail as possible with a 1/2" pipe x 1/2" barb 90.
Then 1/2" high temp oil rated hose to a 1/2" barb x 3/8" pipe fitting that screws into my home made 1/4" drain flange.
About $20 for fittings and hose. ( nice to have a extra pan to do this on ).
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#8
by
theman53
on 25 May, 2011 14:57
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watch welding that bung on the pan. Welding shrinks the pan if you get it too hot and when it cools the pan will pull down and you may have a little leak in the oil pan gasket right above the bung that drives you crazy. Ask me how I know...Just don't get it glowing and it should be ok. Mine doesn't leak all that bad.
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#9
by
81 vw pu
on 25 May, 2011 16:22
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watch welding that bung on the pan. Welding shrinks the pan if you get it too hot and when it cools the pan will pull down and you may have a little leak in the oil pan gasket right above the bung that drives you crazy. Ask me how I know...Just don't get it glowing and it should be ok. Mine doesn't leak all that bad.
Are you talking about welding the bung in while the pan is still on the engine?
I strongly suggest removing the pan and welding the bung both inside and out.
Then clean pan and oil pickup screen and install new silicone gasket. Lots more work but I hate oil leaks.
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#10
by
macka
on 25 May, 2011 18:18
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for the amount of pressure it will see, brazing may be a better option
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#11
by
81 vw pu
on 25 May, 2011 21:20
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for the amount of pressure it will see, brazing may be a better option
Shouldn't be any pressure on the (return line), if that's what you're talking about.
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#12
by
macka
on 26 May, 2011 03:05
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for the amount of pressure it will see, brazing may be a better option
Shouldn't be any pressure on the (return line), if that's what you're talking about.
Yup
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#13
by
theman53
on 26 May, 2011 05:57
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No. Welding it off the engine. I don't see how you could drill a hole and run an engine after. I got mine red hot and it pulled down the pan at the gasket surface. When the pan is that hot and then cools the shrink will do that. I am just saying watch it better than I did.
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#14
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 26 May, 2011 11:05
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maybe braze it then, cause you dont have to get it nearly as hot to do that..
doesnt the TDI pull oil off the side of the head, and not from the filter flange?