So pulled the car in this weekend to replace the HVAC blower fan. Heard an awful sounding grinding type noise when it was on, figured the used fan I put in last summer was seizing up, as I heard the noise and the voltage dipped, cut out radio, etc.
So in testing this weekend I realized that I had crossed wiring when I rewired for the mk2 radiator fan and had connected the red/black wire from the AC relay fan override and the starter circuit. So every time I turned the fan on I was running the starter motor, and with the car running, that was my noise.
Now I have corrected the wiring, but I have noticed recently that when trying to start the car when it is hot that the starter will quit partway through cranking, even while holding the key over. And then I have to crank it twice.
I am worried that I have damaged the starter when it was running with the car on. I didn't run the fan too much while this was going on due to the racket.
Thinking I may replace the starter preventatively. I know all 020 starters will work. Mk1 fitment seems cheaper than Mk2 fitment on the parts sites. Is the Mk2 starter a good upgrade?
I personally like the MK2 starter better. Living in NC probably not as needed as up here, but seems to me they take more of a beating than the MK1 starter when cranking in the cold.
Who cares about the starter? That is an easy replacement (for the most part).
My concern would be one related to the flywheel. I have a hard time believing you could do this without milling the crap out of your flywheel teeth.
You need to yank that starter and inspect the full circumference of that flywheel to see what kind of teeth you have left.
At a minimum, you may have to spend some time cleaning up the smeared milling effect with a flat file.
Who cares about the starter? That is an easy replacement (for the most part).
My concern would be one related to the flywheel. I have a hard time believing you could do this without milling the crap out of your flywheel teeth.
You need to yank that starter and inspect the full circumference of that flywheel to see what kind of teeth you have left.
At a minimum, you may have to spend some time cleaning up the smeared milling effect with a flat file.
x2.. might even need a new flywheel. and i would use the correct mk2 starter. part of the motor mount bolts to it.. the mk1 unit does not have that mount. it will work, but im not going to leave part of my front mount hanging un bolted.. the front mount is the only mount holding the engine from falling on the ground..
Hmm, will have to see what is in there.
I have a mk1, so the mk1/2 starter thing should not impact a mount situation.
Hmm, will have to see what is in there.
I have a mk1, so the mk1/2 starter thing should not impact a mount situation.
wow, thats my bad!!
you most certainly do have a mk1.. lmfao!
you can run a mk1 or mk2 starter, even a mk3 starter if you wanted.
The problem 'might' just be with the starter bushing in the bellhousing - with luck. Vince has an easy 'how-to' on removing them. A new bushing can make big improvements on old starters.
" IF " the bushing hole is worn out - to point a bushing will not press fit anymore - you'll need to upgrade to the new type starter that doesn't use/need a shaft going into bellhousing.
Or find a suitable oversize O.D. bushing.
Or replace tranny/housing. (ouch)
The mk1 diesel starters look like they are twice as beefy as mk2 units. But definitely get DIESEL rated starter either way. They're almost double the HP/KW output of gasser. Check the specs
The later models are a permanent magnet field with a gear reduction planetary drive system. They operate at a higher speed than a series wound field coil type. The earlier model uses wound field coils which account for the larger size I believe. The permanent magnet field sytem will generate more torque with less energy making it the industry standard now. One of the ways that things have got better with time.