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#15
by
ORCoaster
on 25 Apr, 2011 21:07
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Coming to the home address soon. 2 new inner and outer Timken bearing sets for about 25 bucks includes shipping. And two new Axle Stubs for 36. I threw in a new fuel line from the pump to the filter that has the banjos on it as my line is getting real short and I hope to use the extra banjo on the outlet side to monitor the pump pressure as I drive. Still chasing the elusive 65 mpgs
Thanks everyone.
I will leave the breaker bar in the tool box next time and use the hand rachet instead. Don't need to be stranded on the side of the road no more no more. The wife frets about me.
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#16
by
rs899
on 26 Apr, 2011 09:18
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What fat said is what I do and IIRC is what the old Bentley says. They should be just tight enough that you can move the washer under the nut with a screwdriver. I just use a pair of pliers to get the nut that tight- no need for any sort of socket or wrench.
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#17
by
Vincent Waldon
on 26 Apr, 2011 09:59
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They should be just tight enough that you can move the washer under the nut with a screwdriver.
Yup...the Bentley is very specific on the importance of setting the rear bearing clearance this (somewhat weird) way... too tight (by this definition) and bad things will happen.
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#18
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 26 Apr, 2011 10:03
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They should be just tight enough that you can move the washer under the nut with a screwdriver.
Yup...the Bentley is very specific on the importance of setting the rear bearing clearance this (somewhat weird) way... too tight (by this definition) and bad things will happen.
definitely the weirdest tightening procedure ive heard of..
ive got about 10k on my new rear bearings tho, tightened the way bentley says, and they have been good to go.
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#19
by
ORCoaster
on 26 Apr, 2011 12:10
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Not that I need to say this BUT:
In my defense I was 225 miles from the Bentley when the breakdown occurred. After 40 plus years of twisting a wrench or Breaker bar I simply did what I always did and got a fart experience for it.
I correctly looked up the procedure upon being stranded on the side of the road. Mostly as an effort to keep it from happening to me or anyone else again. Just looking out for #1 right?
So this is a bit of an off method of tightening a bearing and I have learned well from it. Trust that the new parts will not get the breaker bar treatment. With everything else bolted down on this car to the point of breaking the stud or nut it seems like way weird that they would go this route for the bearings.
Oh well there are other odd things with these cars that we don't complain about right?
Live and learn. DAS
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#20
by
fatmobile
on 26 Apr, 2011 21:12
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After 40 plus years of twisting a wrench or Breaker bar I simply did what I always did and got a fart experience for it.
I fart when using the breaker bar too sometimes.
I do use it to overtighten them at first, seat the bearings, then back them off.
Too loose will ruin them too,.. to the point that tightening them doesn't help, they need to be replaced.
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#21
by
rabbitman
on 27 Apr, 2011 18:26
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Yeah I don't think the wheel should be allowed to move at all or the bearing is too loose. Unless ,since the axle stub is made of chocolate
, you can grab the top and bottom of the wheel and feel slop but skaking the front and rear feels tight. That's what mine do.......
I don't even use a ratchet, instead I go for channel locks. I don't like getting grease inside my sockets.
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#22
by
ORCoaster
on 27 Apr, 2011 19:42
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I looked and my parts will come while I am off on assignment. At least the bearings will. I may get the axle stubs this weekend and dip them in chocolate :Pjust to get them ready for the bearings coming the week after. If I find any major wear on the drivers side I will assume that the same happened to the passenger side and that is what started this whole mess in the first place. Do you guys use Moly grease on the bearings? I still have a tub of standard wheel bearing grease in the shed but with all the long distance driving I do I am wondering if I could do better at reducing friction with something else.
Suggestions? no rabbitman I am not dipping them in chocolate.
Be real now.
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#23
by
fatmobile
on 28 Apr, 2011 00:00
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I use moly grease.
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#24
by
BigVWman
on 28 Apr, 2011 10:16
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I usually only do a heavy finger tight, maybe a scoche with the channel locks at most i would 10ftlbs. I have only had one fail 18yrs ago! Also i usually use molygraph( Molybdenum disulphide enriched) grease. Some folks say it thins out too much hot but couldn't prove it by me. I'm sure you already do but make sure you "pack" the bearings i have seen a few folks just slather them up real well and think that is greased!
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#25
by
Vincent Waldon
on 28 Apr, 2011 11:12
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#26
by
Rabbit79
on 28 Apr, 2011 11:39
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I liked the sign that you could see on the wall while he was packing the bearing...... 'Road Rage 500 Feet'
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#27
by
ORCoaster
on 28 Apr, 2011 21:21
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Is that guy a carpenter doing mechanic work or a mechanic with carpenters tools? Can't say I approve of the way he set that cap in place. Where is the oversized socket or the block of wood to spread the force of the hammer? Everytime I try something like that I end up mashing up the seal and have to buy another.
What's with the gloves? Isn't the whole point of hand packing the bearings so you end up all gooey and slippery? No fun doing it his way.
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#28
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 30 Apr, 2011 16:45
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To do the rear bearings I always use some clamp grips and hold them end on like tweezers.
Tighten firmly, rotate the wheel, and then back off to the first hole for the castellated nut cover and split pin.
If there is still play beyond the minimum when holdng the wheel top and bottom, then further tightening, will likely sped up death of the bearing, as it is the stub axle that has wore.
The solution for a while at least, is to use a spring punch and LIGHTLY punch the area around where the bearing seats on the stub. This will increase the diameter of the stub.
Do not over do it or the gentle interference fit wil beome a press on fit and it will become hell to remove the brake hub next time you need to service...
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#29
by
ORCoaster
on 30 Apr, 2011 20:08
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I might not have needed to buy two axle stubs if I had known the dimple trick a worn stub. Oh well. best replace them both at the same time and call it good. I needed one for sure as the threads are totally gone on the passenger side. Going to be gone most of the next two weeks on travel status. Dang and the weather is finally getting to be some sort of springlike here. Almost 60 today but sunshine bigtime. Didn't work on the car as I had landscape work to do. Free brush pick up means trim, trim, and trim some more. Everything grows like a weed here and you have to cut it back or it just goes wild.