Rear Bearing Failures

[ORCoaster]

On a recent 4 hour drive I had the misfortune to have not one but two bearings mass fail on me. Torn up all the races, little bits of roller bearings in between the two bearings on the spindle.  All lubed heavily, not overly tight, Maybe too loose? 

This is the first time I have had this sort of trouble when driving a car in the last forty years.  Are there better bearings than others?  The NAPA ones I put in first were Beck Arnley.  I saved the outside bearing that wasn't damaged when the first inner bearing destroyed itself.  I had that in the tool box when the brand new bearing went south on me 175 miles later. 

Now I know I didn't do a real good check of the spindle when the problem arose and I probably could not have purchased one at 6 PM at night anyway.  I will now need to be ordering one as the threads are gone on the end now from the damage of the outside bearing blowing up. 

Any ideas other than lube, and torque on why a new set or any set of bearings would fail like that?

Ever drive a Rabbit with the cotter pin as the only means of securing the bearing in place?  Very slow drive for the last 75 miles.  But did arrive at 1:30 PM to a very worried wife. 

Later DAS

[theman53]

The last rear wheel bearings I bought were from autohaus--pex. The outers on both went out very shortly. I purchased the national brand from advanced and replaced them. So far no troubles. I had the exact same result as you. Not too tight, good lube, so silky smooth operating...then growled and the fun was over.

[Quantum TD]

I use FAG or SKF and fuggeddaboudit.

[vanagonturbo]

I use FAG or SKF and fuggeddaboudit.

THIS!!!

[nathan_b]

only ever used FAG, never had a premature failure in my, or a customers car.

[rs899]

I use FAG or SKF and fuggeddaboudit.

Particularly for the fronts, which are a devil to replace.

Country of origin means a lot in metallurgy.  The Chinese will readily admit they have a lot to learn.

[ORCoaster]

Thanks guys,  Kind of what I thought.  Any place other than the local parts pull place to get the spindles.  Looked a bit just now not having much luck.  Will pay attention to bearing maker upon purchase.  Local shop generally has what I need but not sure of brand off the top of my head.  Thought a couple of bearing kits would be the way to go but folks selling don't list the manufacturer of the bearings.  Could always call or write

Local parts place has one, yes just one VW Caddy on the lot.  Was thinking to check it out for rear parts.  Maybe it has the disc brakes on it.  Just grab the whole thing and hope for the best?  Or deal with bearing failure on it the next weekend?

Again thanks for the names of the good ones, how about them spindles?

[R.O.R-2.0]

timken bearings are what i use 99% of the time..

[theman53]

The Pex on autohaus says SKF/Pex now...they sucked for me.

[fatmobile]

How did you tighten them?

[ORCoaster]

timken bearings is what came on the car when I bought it.  The PO didn't care for the car like he could have.  Let it set after driving in water going fishing.  What is with that?  

Also the end cap had been hit against a rock or something hard and was dented and had a hole in it.  When I took it apart that outer bearing was rusted real bad.  Funny it didn't blow up on me on the 90 mile drive home.  Brakes were also frozen in place on both sides.  Ended up getting an entire bearing kit and two new brake cylinders.  Not sure who made the bearings in the kit.  But I looked in the box that was on the workbench on Saturday and noticed the inner bearing was in great shape and said Timken on it.  

No word on Spindles, got to have two to make the fix.  Might be at the play and pull in the rain this weekend.  Oh fun, and the caddy is buried in the mud too.

[ORCoaster]

Fatmobile my man<

How did you tighten them?  you asked.

All wrong I can tell you that. 

I put the inner bearing in, covered it with the dust cap, flipped the drum over, inserted the outer bearing and slid it on the spindle.  I slipped on the keyed washer, the nut and grabbed my socket on the end of the 18 inch breaker bar.   Lights and sirens should be going off about now.  Way to much torque initially from what I can gather after reading my Bentley this morning.  They can be ruined by as little as 9.5 ft lbs of pressure. 

I spun the wheel, and cranked down on the handle several times until the wheel was difficult to move.  Then backed it off, then tightened again, backed it off and put the nut keeper and the cotter pin in place. 

Da Bentley says not so tight buddy.  They want the washer to be movable with a screwdriver so the nut is more or less finger tight at the end.  That may explain why I was successful in driving the last 75 miles home at 45 MPH without much trouble.  I had enough room to get a the nut on the stripped spindle and just pinned it in place.  What else could I do?  I didn't have any other washers to try and make it any tighter.

If this doesn't answer your question, blast another note and we can continue to type talk. 

I don't see anyone giving me an answer as to why this would have happened.  Maybe I already answered my own question.  Not quality parts. 

later

[fatmobile]

 I don't think the nut should be finger tight when you are done,.. but sounds like you are on the right track with tightening.
 I always set mine a little tight.
 I make it so twisting the screwdriver can move the washer,.. seems to work.

[R.O.R-2.0]

it happened because you tightened them WAY too tight.. 18" breaker bar is WAY TOO MUCH.

crap, my bearings were a little too tight, (~20 ft lbs) and i noticed it after i tightened the bearings up, then shortly there after, my right rear bearing disintegrated..

[745 turbogreasel]

From age, cheap hub, or catastrophic failure as described above, if the hub becomes wollered out where the race should be pressed in, it will disintegrate again even if tightened 'correctly'.
So, knock the races out, and inspect carefully, or if you can move them without a tool, the hub is borked.