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WTB: 1.6NA mechanical cylinder head :(
by
wdkingery
on 07 Apr, 2011 18:32
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after buying too many parts, and spending too much money, i've come to realize my valves might be burnt, as i had possibly bad compression test results (thanks for the crappy possibly unreliable compression tester hans/prothe) and i noticed a hissing sound that slowly went down after each test (altho each cylinder held compression for at least a minute (long enough to beat the compression gauge into releasing the pressure))
possible burnt valves because i found i had ZERO clearance when i checked my valve lash/gap.. i've since done a valve adjustment, but had a hell of time getting it fired back up (pump priming anyone??) but once i did it did seem to run ok. i had a limited selection of shims, so i wasn't able to get them much better off than they were to begin with (double puke)
i bought the car with too many miles for too much, it turns out to be a rust bucket and the school cop wrote me a ticket for no state safety inspection, so i go to get it inspected and it needs new floorboards and a new Injection pump. (puke?) so i put floors in it and got an IP on the way.. so i figure i'd start trying to find a head .. and get a re-ring kit .. hell i'll have a new car by the time i'm done. (triple puke?)
pump comes in tomorrow, we'll see what she does after that .. in the mean time try to kick me a head somebody would ya?
i'm in richmond virginia usa 23838 and i'm quickly runnin out of cash
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#1
by
wdkingery
on 07 Apr, 2011 18:51
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how quickly will i hang myself if i buy prothe's "buy it now" ebay head for less than 300?
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#2
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 07 Apr, 2011 19:49
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FWIW, your engine may not be salvageable after a prothe head failure.
if it drops the head off a valve, and the valve bounces around the cylinder before exiting thru the cylinder wall, or thru the piston top, and bents a rod, and puts a hole in the block because of the bent rod, well then, your going to be out alot more than 300 bucks..
even AMC heads are better than prothe heads, and even the amc units are regarded as less than VW quality..
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#3
by
dodger21
on 07 Apr, 2011 20:55
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I replied to the Vortex thread...
Let me know if you still want it.
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#4
by
wdkingery
on 07 Apr, 2011 22:38
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I replied to the Vortex thread...
Let me know if you still want it.
what?
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#5
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 07 Apr, 2011 23:43
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I'm thinking the prothe head is bare naked for 300. (?)
There is what they call a TopLine head that is probably better quality. I think its in the same range. But you can buy it complete also. If i remember right.
There are also places that will do your old head.
And places that will sell you a fresh reconditioned head complete.
But its been a while since i've run those trails and have no links to provide for you.
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#6
by
Powered by Spearco
on 08 Apr, 2011 00:12
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I've heard that the Topline heads are made for 11mm head bolts and the 12mm head bolts. They supply some kind of bolt spacer that you would use if its a 12mm.
Does anyone know of this and is it true?
I think theres a place call Diesel parts place, back east that can swap you out for a rebuilt one. Kind of spendy though.
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#7
by
AudiVWguy
on 21 Apr, 2011 22:23
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I've had a Topline head on my 1.6 NA now its had two different turbos 18-20 lbs boost, 12mm ARP studs went right in. About 70k on the head so far. Flawless so far. IMHO I would buy again.
Cheers,
-JB
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#8
by
rabbitman
on 21 Apr, 2011 22:44
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Topline is the way to go (other than original vdub of course).
I have a hard time believing the cylinder held pressure for longer than a whole minute, that would be an incredibly good seal. Not callin' you a liar but maybe the hissing was something else.
If the head ain't cracked and the guides aren't worn it would be cheaper to get it fixed than to buy a complete prothe head.
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#9
by
truckinwagen
on 21 Apr, 2011 23:46
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I have a mech head that should be a bolt on and go(after properly adjusting the valves)
it was running strong until pulled.
PM me for details and prices.
-Owen