Source for Oil Squirters? - page 1 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• Source for Oil Squirters? by Northboundtrain on 19 Jan, 2006 06:05
• A while ago, I posted a query about converting an N/A block to turbo.
  
  http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=1108
  
  The responses were encouraging, so I think I'm going to try it.  First, I need to get some oil squirters so I can have the holes in the main oil galley machined.  I've searched for them unsuccessfully.  Can anyone tell me where to get them?
  
  Thanks
• #1 by 935racer on 19 Jan, 2006 12:07
• I searched high and low for oil squirters and custom things that would fit, ended up just installing new ones from the dealer, they were around $40 a piece.
• #2 by Justin on 19 Jan, 2006 16:06
• dont you need to buy the bolt to since it has a pressure regulator built into the bolt?
  
  later
  Justin
• #3 by Northboundtrain on 19 Jan, 2006 17:27
• $160 isn't cheap, but compared to the cost of a rare TD core around here (or a trip to Canada), it's still a better deal.  I still can't quite grasp Justin's method of drilling holes in the main bearing journals (where do the holes go?), but I'm all ears if someone has an explaination of his set up that can penetrate my thick skull.
  
  BTW, the block that I currently have available for this rebuild takes 11mm head bolts.  I definitely want to use a hydraulic turbo head, so would it be advisable to have my machinist helicoil the holes to 12mm, or should I find a 12mm block to start with?  
  
  Thanks for the help
• #4 by Justin on 19 Jan, 2006 18:34
• Northboundtrain
  
  The holes that I drilled were at a 10 degree angle that point to the center of the top of the piston bore
  
  If you look at the picture the light colored hole in the middle is where the oil goes through, there is a slight notch machined in behind the bearing to transfer oil from the main oil galley to the machined hole.
  
  http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2223781/1
  
  Just for the machine shop to drill these holes in was $45 thats the cost of one squirter, plus I didnt have to go and buy turbo pistons or notch NA pistons to clear stock squirters and then rebalance the rotating assembly
  
  I added some pictures to help you grasp this a little better hopefully, dont worry we will get you a reliable TD
  
  later
  Justin
• #5 by moosiah on 19 Jan, 2006 23:17
• Ah........ lets see..... :idea:  I remember that 289 ford v8's had a drilling in the rod, in the web, placed so that it could pick up oil from the drillway in the crank. it was pointed up, and squrted along the rod at the wristpin, which was the idea in the first place............  one good spirt per revolution, right at the underside of the piston crown...... not full time but a start ?  
• #6 by veeman on 20 Jan, 2006 07:19
• FWIW, they came in VW 16 valve engines and also on the Audi turbo 5-cyl (gas) blocks as well as others.  
  
  I have a spare of one of each of those that I can probably get rid of.  The squirters are used (of course), but I can probably pull them out for you if you'd like to test...
• #7 by Northboundtrain on 20 Jan, 2006 18:21
• veeman,  I just sent you a pm about the squirters.  Thanks.
  
  Anybody have a suggestion regarding the 11mm block versus a 12mm?  I'm told there are some diesels down at the junk yard right now.  Chances are there's a 12mm among them, but if a helicoil job is just as good, then I'd rather use what I've got and save myself the trouble of pulling an engine at the junk yard.
• #8 by VW Smokr on 20 Jan, 2006 21:15
• No problem taking those holes out to 12mm. BTDT  That 11mm (or the 12mm mechanical) block doesn't match up all the holes with a hydraulic head. IIRC the head has an extra oil drainback right where the mechanical follower block flows coolant up to the head. Personally, I'm not brave enough to block off any coolant passage to/from a VW diesel head; they need all they can get IMO.
  
  The 12mm blocks (mechanical or hydraulic) also had deeper holes for the head bolts than the 11mm blocks, for better holding power. RaceWare gets about $150 for head studs(11 or 12mm), so that would probably make the 11mm block work fine for turbos, but probably only for mechanical followers.
  So much nicer to torque down the fine thread nuts on those studs, and they're totally re-usable. ARP may have studs for our VWs also, haven't checked.
  
  Best wishes on your new engine.
  
  J.R.
  SoCal
• #9 by Northboundtrain on 21 Jan, 2006 05:24
• Okay, so if I have to go with the mechanical head, but use the oil squirters, then I can still have a decent set up with a turbo?  My next question is where to find a turbo.  There are lots of Garrett T3s on ebay.  Is this a good choice?
• #10 by RabbitGTDguy on 21 Jan, 2006 06:50
• I have three oil squirters that are the same but they are from the PL 1.8 16v gasser block. Same deal as the TD ones though. I was going to keep them for spares, but could help you out with them....
  
  Let me know if your interested...would save you some money... only would have to source one more
  
  Joe
• #11 by Northboundtrain on 23 Jan, 2006 06:12
• I called raceware and their studs are $170 plus shipping.  Wow!  I guess I'll price out the helicoil job and compare the two.  If I go with the studs, then I'll just use an 11mm head right?  Is there any difference between the 11mm and 12mm mechanical heads other than the bolt size?
  
  Good news.  A buddy has a turbo that he'll sell me for a good price.  Is there a good way to test the turbo before installing it?
  
  I'm looking forward to this rebuild, it seems to be coming together nicely.
  
  Thanks for the help so far
• #12 by Justin on 24 Jan, 2006 08:54
• no mechanical difference in heads for mechanical betweem 11mm and 12 mm, except the bolt holes. the turbo heads have a higher alloy content from what I have heard. its really easy to set the 11 mm head up in a jig and drill it for 12 mm head bolts, thats what I am running on my new turbo diesel
• #13 by chrissev on 25 Jan, 2006 11:36
• Quote from: "Northboundtrain"

  $160 isn't cheap, but compared to the cost of a rare TD core around here (or a trip to Canada), it's still a better deal.  I still can't quite grasp Justin's method of drilling holes in the main bearing journals (where do the holes go?), but I'm all ears if someone has an explaination of his set up that can penetrate my thick skull.
  
  BTW, the block that I currently have available for this rebuild takes 11mm head bolts.  I definitely want to use a hydraulic turbo head, so would it be advisable to have my machinist helicoil the holes to 12mm, or should I find a 12mm block to start with?  
  
  Thanks for the help

  
  
  this guy is selling a TD block for $100 in NY:  http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=2911
  
  rebuilt too.
• #14 by Northboundtrain on 25 Jan, 2006 16:26
• Thanks, chrissev.  I need to start looking at the for sale posts more often.  
  
  The recent post on the SAE paper (which I read) was very enlightening.  Turns out that the TD engine is different from the NA in many ways.  I was not aware that the TD engine also has different/improved crank, main caps, valves, and swirl chambers.  
  
  Is it folly to try to build a TD from an NA without these improvements?  I'm particularly concerned about the valves and swirl chambers, so that would mean getting a real turbo head.  I didn't realize that there was a difference between the turbo and NA mechanical heads.