newly noisy engine

[R.O.R-2.0]

the plugs ARE NOT supposed to be energized while cranking.. all my diesels, the plugs go off the second you hit the key..

the starter is supposedly the only thing drawing off the battery while cranking. or its supposed to be that way..

even my cars that have properly functioning glow plug timers, the light goes out as soon as you move the key to start position..

speaking of mk1s..

[xxkoadyxx]

wouldnt it being low on compression cause it to start harder and take more to start and be more noisy?

[coke]

Relay terminal 50: Power in start position only

Supplies 12v to the glow plug bus bar when starter is engaged.

[R.O.R-2.0]

no..

having worn cylinder bores will cause the low compression (hard cold starting) and the increased noise (piston slap)

but being that his engine was FINE before the ether, leads me to believe that the ether injured this engine..

[R.O.R-2.0]

Relay terminal 50: Power in start position only

Supplies 12v to the glow plug bus bar when starter is engaged.

that is most definitely retarded..

in my mind, i dont want my plugs on when im cranking.. those things pull like 50-60 amps right off the batt. and the starter needs basically the rest of the batteries reserve..

i just remembered that i have not owned a VW with a FUNCTIONING glow plug timer in a very LONG time..

i swear they turned off with the key in start, but i could be mixing up the VW with the Datsun, i know the plugs on that thing kick off when you crank it..

thanks for pointing that out tho, about terminal 50..

sorry for my mix up..

[coke]

The problem is this: when they turn off, they have already started to cool down. Yes, they got hot, fast. Mine reach 1900F in 4 seconds. They're supposed to stay hot, but if they're still on when cranking its only going to be better.  A battery with 650CCA should be more than powerful enough to spin the motor over at 150 rpms and power the glow plugs for a good long time before it runs out.

I have a manual switch on mine, and I don't let go of it until the engine's running. Even my crappy 8 year old battery still has enough juice to crank it while glowing for 25 or 30 seconds.

[8v-of-fury]

I dont think 150rpm is enough to fire these diesels off.

Also on my bro's TD, we glow for 10 seconds (manual glow relay) and keep them on while cranking. Usually fires on the first crank and runs great after it starts.

[coke]

150rpm is the minimum cranking speed per the protraining manual. It says if it isn't at least 150, you must make it so.

[8v-of-fury]

I dunno.. 400rpm is more ideal.. maybe if it were +30c out it would start at 150rpms.. but not anywhere near freezing..

[R.O.R-2.0]

i glow my plugs 6 seconds, pull the CS, fire the engine, then glow for about another 4-6 seconds.

im as easy on my battery as i can be with everything else, because my amplifiers are most definitely not nice to my batt and alt..

[rabbitman]

ROR, you're partly correct, the glow light does go off and the GP's begin the afterglow stage.

I put a ford starter solenoid on the firewall when pimped my GP's (the stock GP relay powers it) and I can hear it clunking every time it cycles, it clunks once at the start of glow and clunks once more at the end of glow.

[R.O.R-2.0]

i got a ford constant duty solenoid too.. just wired it up to a switch, and power from it straight to the glow plug fuse.. there not completely pimped, but slightly pimped.

[ianders]

Okay everyone, I'm going to bring this post back to the original issue. Forget about the glow plugs.

I finally freed the car from the snow drift that had engulfed it and got the thing into my basement today. I took off the timing belt cover and valve cover, and sure enough, the ether had caused the timing belt to skip a tooth. I reset the timing, tensioned the belt, and she fired up right away. No more death rattles or smoke! I wish all problems could be fixed so easily! Thanks for the advice.

[R.O.R-2.0]

you got super DUPER lucky..

usually ether is not so friendly..