Replacing injectors...how much time should I carve out?

[truckinwagen]

PBlaster, Kroil, Deep Creep, etc...

[madmedix]

1/2 brake fluid, 1/2 tranny fluid; mixed in a road-side diner style of ketchup (catsup) squirter. Attached hose (cheap clear pvc hose) as required to get it to really funky places, even from underneath (think lower exhaust manifold with the engine still in the car). Put some cat litter on the ground first, and do NOT get it on the paint. Best stuff I've ever used. Penetrated the axle nuts on a parts car that has sat for 5 years...after destroying a breaker bar and a 5' piece of cast iron pipe for leverage. My 1/2" impact took it off after two days of soaking...

Andy

[Thezorn]

It would help to put some strong penatrant on them like the night previous to doing this

Suggestions on 'strong' penetrate please ... USA.

PBblaster is good stuff for sure.

[ventureforth]

Good to hear, as PBlaster is what I've been using.

[R.O.R-2.0]

Always push towards the head when loosening or tightening the injectors otherwise the injector boss could crack and then your troubles have just begun.

Some people put anti-seize on the threads, if you do make sure you don't use stuff that'll react with the different metals.......the search will probably help you figure out what to use.

New heat shields.

Don't just bend the injector lines out of the way, you gotta remove them from the IP too.

If you have everything you need right there and nothing goes wrong it shouldn't take much over an hour for a first timer.

do not use copper never sieze, it will have a reaction with the aluminum and do more damage than good. use the silver never sieze..

[ventureforth]

Well, I took care of it today.  Took about an hour as you all said.  Tried going the hand tool method for removal, but the injectors wouldn't budge.  Impact wrench did the trick and made it a piece of cake.  Really.  It couldn't have been easier or more straightforward and I barely worked up a sweat using the impact wrench method.  Replaced heat shields, threaded everything by hand, torqued everything to 70nm per Bentely.  Replaced the soft braided lines as they were a little brittle.  Did not crack the pipes at the injector, but it started up just fine (after a couple of 10 second bouts of cranking).  Adjusted max fuel and idle.  Test drive turned up one leaky pipe at the injector, but a little more torque on it and all is well.  Doesn't feel/sound like there is any air in the system and everything runs nice and smooth.  Definitely felt more acceleration and noticed less smoke overall.  Still some smoke at WOT, but that's probably because the fuel is still turned up a little bit over stock...which is fine.  I barely notice it in the rear view mirror, even at WOT, so it can't be that bad.  I may turn it down a bit to see if I can achieve no smoke...just for the fun of it.  It's an older motor, so non-smoke may be a non-option.

So far, the most "advanced" repair I've done (for whatever that is worth).  Building up confidence to do the IP (Giles) and timing belt.  As yet, I have never failed to be amazed and encouraged at how doable repairs are on this little Rabbit.  If I can do it, chances are anyone out there searching for advice on these forums can do it, as well.

Thanks again!

[doonboggle]

CONGRATS ! !
Now if I only had impact wrench tools...
Never have used them before

Well, I took care of it today.  Took about an hour as you all said.  Tried going the hand tool method for removal, but the injectors wouldn't budge.  Impact wrench did the trick and made it a piece of cake.  Really.  It couldn't have been easier or more straightforward and I barely worked up a sweat using the impact wrench method.  Replaced heat shields, threaded everything by hand, torqued everything to 70nm per Bentely.  Replaced the soft braided lines as they were a little brittle.  Did not crack the pipes at the injector, but it started up just fine (after a couple of 10 second bouts of cranking).  Adjusted max fuel and idle.  Test drive turned up one leaky pipe at the injector, but a little more torque on it and all is well.  Doesn't feel/sound like there is any air in the system and everything runs nice and smooth.  Definitely felt more acceleration and noticed less smoke overall.  Still some smoke at WOT, but that's probably because the fuel is still turned up a little bit over stock...which is fine.  I barely notice it in the rear view mirror, even at WOT, so it can't be that bad.  I may turn it down a bit to see if I can achieve no smoke...just for the fun of it.  It's an older motor, so non-smoke may be a non-option.

So far, the most "advanced" repair I've done (for whatever that is worth).  Building up confidence to do the IP (Giles) and timing belt.  As yet, I have never failed to be amazed and encouraged at how doable repairs are on this little Rabbit.  If I can do it, chances are anyone out there searching for advice on these forums can do it, as well.

Thanks again!

[ventureforth]

Turned the fuel down about an 1/8th of a turn.  VERY little smoke now.  I can't even see it at all in 2-5th...I think.  1st gear still has noticeable smoke from a takeoff, but it's only of a lightish grey color.   Whattaya gonna do?  Not bad for a 30 year old car...gas or diesel.

[ORCoaster]

Perfect discussion to the repair I need to do this weekend.  Thanks for the words of wisdom.  Will borrow an Impact wrench and make it easy on myself.  DAS

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

Perfect discussion to the repair I need to do this weekend.  Thanks for the words of wisdom.  Will borrow an Impact wrench and make it easy on myself.  DAS

Remember, if it's really tight; not to undo the injector in one go, but just part turn it.
If the threads are really clogged so it remains tight, then best to finish off by hand with a 'T' bar and more lube, and partial retightening, otherwise threads can become damaged