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Replacing injectors...how much time should I carve out?
by
ventureforth
on 10 Oct, 2010 12:15
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Getting ready to replace injectors on my 1.6NA. It seems light a pretty straightforward job, but my time is so tight and the Rabbit is my DD, so I want to make sure I only start the job if I'm sure I can finish it before I need the car again. So, what is worst case scenario, best case scenario, average for a job like this?
Obviously, I realize something could break or crack or get damaged and that throws everything off. But assuming all goes relatively smoothly, what can I expect?
Thanks.
Any tips would be appreciated, too, though I have been reading up on the forums and think I have a pretty good sense of what to expect.
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#1
by
Thezorn
on 10 Oct, 2010 13:10
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All you really have to do is is pull the injector lines, then pull the injectors. It would help to put some strong penatrant on them like the night previous to doing this. Im pretty sure you have to change the heat shields in the head that the injectors sit in.
Anyways, once you get the old injectors out it is very straight forward, do the heat shields, put the new injectors in (Im not sure if there is any type of lubricant or anything you should use on the new injectors) torque up the injectors, put the fuel lines on then your good to go.
Remember to crack your injector lines at the injectors when you start your car again, since there will be air in your lines. It is a pretty simple to do.
Im sure everyone will chime in if I missed anything.
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#2
by
rabbitman
on 10 Oct, 2010 14:35
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Always push towards the head when loosening or tightening the injectors otherwise the injector boss could crack and then your troubles have just begun.
Some people put anti-seize on the threads, if you do make sure you don't use stuff that'll react with the different metals.......the search will probably help you figure out what to use.
New heat shields.
Don't just bend the injector lines out of the way, you gotta remove them from the IP too.
If you have everything you need right there and nothing goes wrong it shouldn't take much over an hour for a first timer.
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#3
by
Quantum TD
on 10 Oct, 2010 14:45
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When removing the injector pipes, put some towels under the IP where the lines connect. Once you begin to loosen the lines, diesel fuel will leak down onto your coolant hoses. That's not a good thing.
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#4
by
ventureforth
on 10 Oct, 2010 15:34
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Thanks for the tips. I hear you on the penetrating oil.
I've heard that you only need to crack one injector line, or even none at all, due to the self-priming aspect of the ip system. Just crank it a bit, it starts up, and runs smooth after a bit of idle.
Some say locktite or thread sealant, some say none because it can make it near impossible to get them out again doen the line.
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#5
by
RabbitJockey
on 10 Oct, 2010 15:37
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i used my impact to remove them... whole job took like an hour
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#6
by
ventureforth
on 10 Oct, 2010 15:38
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Good tip on removing the hard lines altogether, too. I remember not doing that on a renault diesel I used to have and it was bad news. Do you recommend loosening the hard lines at the injector first or the pump first? And how about when putting them back on? Pump first or injectors first?
How much fuel should I expect to drain out when removing the hard lines at the pump? And do I need to prime the pump with atf or anything, or will there still be enough residual fuel in the pump to prime when cranking?
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#7
by
ventureforth
on 10 Oct, 2010 15:42
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I do have an impact wrench. I always thought that would be too risky as far as possible cracking or breaking of the various engine components. Less fine control of pressure, tension, force, etc vs hand tools. Am I just being paranoid?
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#8
by
ventureforth
on 10 Oct, 2010 15:51
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And as far as applying force "toward the head" when loosening or tightening, does that mean at a downward angle or towards the firewall?
Is it a good idea to always replace to soft lines, too, since you're going through the trouble to do the rest, anyway?
ps
Sorry for the multiple consecutive posts. I'm posting from my phone, and the thread isn't updating as quickly as you all or posting. Great advice so far. Man I love this site!!
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#9
by
RabbitJockey
on 10 Oct, 2010 16:12
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Good tip on removing the hard lines altogether, too. I remember not doing that on a renault diesel I used to have and it was bad news. Do you recommend loosening the hard lines at the injector first or the pump first? And how about when putting them back on? Pump first or injectors first?
How much fuel should I expect to drain out when removing the hard lines at the pump? And do I need to prime the pump with atf or anything, or will there still be enough residual fuel in the pump to prime when cranking?
loosen them in what ever order, when you tighten them, make them all tight by hand before using your wrench, that way they are lined up right.
not much fuel comes out, it's not really anything to be concerned with. you don't need to prime the pump or anything because the deliver valves seal it off. some people crack the injector lines at the injector side, but i don't and it still starts pretty quickly
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#10
by
RabbitJockey
on 10 Oct, 2010 16:15
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I do have an impact wrench. I always thought that would be too risky as far as possible cracking or breaking of the various engine components. Less fine control of pressure, tension, force, etc vs hand tools. Am I just being paranoid?
imo the impact wrench is safer because its only going to put rotational force on the injectors, its not going to be pushing it side to side or front to back at all, and it gives nice vibrations to get everything loose. someone else may feel differently than i do, thats just my theory of why its safer. i turned my impact on the lowest setting and all but one of them came out with no trouble the last one i just had to hold the impact on it for a little longer
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#11
by
RabbitJockey
on 10 Oct, 2010 16:16
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And as far as applying force "toward the head" when loosening or tightening, does that mean at a downward angle or towards the firewall?
Is it a good idea to always replace to soft lines, too, since you're going through the trouble to do the rest, anyway?
ps
Sorry for the multiple consecutive posts. I'm posting from my phone, and the thread isn't updating as quickly as you all or posting. Great advice so far. Man I love this site!!
if the lines look dry replace them, if they look fine, keep them.
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#12
by
theman53
on 11 Oct, 2010 04:33
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And as far as applying force "toward the head" when loosening or tightening, does that mean at a downward angle or towards the firewall?
Is it a good idea to always replace to soft lines, too, since you're going through the trouble to do the rest, anyway?
ps
Sorry for the multiple consecutive posts. I'm posting from my phone, and the thread isn't updating as quickly as you all or posting. Great advice so far. Man I love this site!!
Push toward the meat of the head/firewall. This is for tightening and loosening. If you break the thin part of the injector boss you end up with the worst case which is head removal and replacement. Many hours there.
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#13
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 11 Oct, 2010 05:27
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And as far as applying force "toward the head" when loosening or tightening, does that mean at a downward angle or towards the firewall?
Is it a good idea to always replace to soft lines, too, since you're going through the trouble to do the rest, anyway?
ps
Sorry for the multiple consecutive posts. I'm posting from my phone, and the thread isn't updating as quickly as you all or posting. Great advice so far. Man I love this site!!
if the lines look dry replace them, if they look fine, keep them.
Do you mean if the lines look hard? If the lines are dry...
Buy a meter of the stuff, and replace any which leak after reusing. If they don't, then don't 
.
Clever people cut them slightly on the long side, so that the ends can be trimmed once or so.
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#14
by
doonboggle
on 11 Oct, 2010 09:19
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It would help to put some strong penatrant on them like the night previous to doing this
Suggestions on 'strong' penetrate please ... USA.