Frankenwagen build thread AKA TD Corrado - page 9 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #120 by Thezorn on 24 Dec, 2010 18:30
• Okay awsome, Ill let you know. I think ill be needing a few more boost gauges for this project now 
• #121 by RadoTD on 24 Dec, 2010 19:39
• And once you've got that sorted out, see here for some more reading! http://www.scribd.com/full/38878486?access_key=key-1grtryzbk62co0xusgte
  Starts at page 22, lots of info there!
• #122 by RadoTD on 29 Dec, 2010 10:45
• One part I had completely forgotten to get is the crank nose bolt. I went down to an OEM parts supplier and got one, but to my surprise it's actually a 12.9 bolt, so it's not TTY. I found this odd, but he said that's the new OEM bolt. None of my manuals list a torque spec other than the TTY, so I'm not sure what to torque it to!
  
  I found a chart here that says 177ftlbs max for a 14mm 12.9 bolt and dry threads. Is that a safe torque? I'll be putting blue loc tite on, so should I reduce the torque slightly?
• #123 by theman53 on 29 Dec, 2010 10:54
• Myke W has the TTY bolts. The older design I don't know about trying it.
  The 177 sounds right, but I wouldn't take it down for loctite, just if oiling. IIRC the spec on the TTY bolt is something like 90ft/lbs and 1/2 turn or 137ft/lbs and 1/4 turn. Either way I bet you will be around 180ft/lbs when done. If this wasn't such a critical component to timing I would say run it, but it is, so I would get the correct parts if you can.
• #124 by RadoTD on 29 Dec, 2010 10:57
• Ignore the PM I just sent haha
  
  It is actually the new OEM bolt, maybe it actually helps with eliminating movement in the pulley? Either way, I need to get this back running pretty soon, so I think I will run this bolt, at 177
• #125 by RadoTD on 30 Dec, 2010 21:06
• I was hoping to get the engine fully bolted in yesterday, but too much running around picking up misc things and my driveway turning to black ice/sun going down around 4:30 meant that didn't quite happen.
  
  Finished the new mount and bracket though and I'm happy with how they turned out. Subframe notched and filled back in, everything coated in zero rust. My welds are slowly getting better, but it's tough on 1/4" and 3/8" plate with my 110V mig. I should've turned the wire feed speed down even further, but it was already at 20/100 haha
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  And one random pic of my cars ass beside my Eddy's Jetta
  
  
  
  Insurance on my spare vehicle runs out on Jan 5 and I don't want to insure it again. So, I don't have much time left. Fortunately I've got 3 days off between now and then (Sat, Sun, Tues) to get it all tied up. I started writing down a list of everything I need to do before it's running again, here's what I've got so far. There will probably be more!
  
  -Install clutch/tranny
  -Drop engine back in car
  -Intercooler/plumbing
  -Make custom downpipe
  -Weld up exhaust pipe between turbo's once I know it will all fit for sure!
  -Oil feed lines
  -Get K24 oil return line made
  -Make a line from my K14 wastegate to the intermediate charge pipe
  -Set up temporary boost gauge off of intermediate charge pipe (not urgent)
  -Set up my oil pressure gauge
  -Set up oil temp gauge
  -Remake hood release cable
  -Put instrument stalks back on and put some of the interior back in
  -Cross my fingers and hope that it all goes back together well!
  
  I think it's a lot to do in 3 days of work, but should be possible! Hopefully no more big hurdles
• #126 by R.O.R-2.0 on 31 Dec, 2010 08:43
• i dont want to criticize your fabrication skills, but are the welds good enough on that motor mount? cause that is the mount with the most load on it.
  
  i think i would have made the actual piece that connects to the rubber mount, i think i would have made it one piece with the block mount plate.. instead of welding a triangle to the mount pad, then the end of the mount to the triangle?
  
  idk, it may work fine. but the welds look a little cold..
• #127 by theman53 on 31 Dec, 2010 10:12
• Please send me a cardboard version of your engine mount. I think that mount would work with MK2 and VNT If yours fails I would even weld you up one for the cardboard and angles that you give me to do it.
• #128 by RadoTD on 02 Jan, 2011 11:16
• Quote from: R.O.R-2.0 on 31 Dec, 2010 08:43

  i dont want to criticize your fabrication skills, but are the welds good enough on that motor mount? cause that is the mount with the most load on it.
  
  i think i would have made the actual piece that connects to the rubber mount, i think i would have made it one piece with the block mount plate.. instead of welding a triangle to the mount pad, then the end of the mount to the triangle?
  
  idk, it may work fine. but the welds look a little cold..
  

  
  In no way do I think I'm a great welder. However, to make up for quality, I just applied the quantity theory
  Where it's triangulated at the motor, I have zero worries about strength. Where I'm going to the bracket that bolts up however, I was a little more careful. I ran multiple root welds holding it all together, it's not just one on the top and one on the bottom. There was about a 3/8" or 1/2" gap between the bottom gusset and the 3/8" plate and both sides of that were root welded, another weld to tie those two together and then a wide 4th bead on top that I ground off.
  
  I would've liked to make it beefier, but I had to duck under the turbo outlet and I'm also very close to laying it on the CV, so I didn't have much to work with
• #129 by Powered by Spearco on 02 Jan, 2011 12:07
• I'm not the best welder either, but I know when I've got a good weld when it sounds like bacon cooking and the weld is almost laying flat. It looks like the speed is too fast and or the heat is not hot/high enough.
  
  My 2 cents.
  
  The project looks good so far. I'm jealous of the turbos  .
• #130 by Thezorn on 02 Jan, 2011 12:54
• Ive always wondered how well a welder would work running on 110v. In my experience with mig, since I am a welder by trade, the best sound you can get when your laying a bead sounds almost like a zipper being undone.
  
  As for your welds, they should be fine. As long as you have done more then one past, getting good penatration, all the way down through the bottom. And the best way to tell if your top pass is to cold is to check for "cold lap", best way to check for this is to run your fingernail from one side to the other and see if there is anything that your nail catches under.
  
  I understand that welding 3/8 plate with 110v power supply isnt the easiest either
  
  looks good though, cant wait to see it done.
• #131 by ricosuave on 02 Jan, 2011 17:00
• Quote from: Powered by Spearco on 02 Jan, 2011 12:07

  when it sounds like bacon

  
  bacon.
  
  is there nothing it cant do?   
• #132 by R.O.R-2.0 on 03 Jan, 2011 10:36
• Quote from: RadoTD on 02 Jan, 2011 11:16

  Quote from: R.O.R-2.0 on 31 Dec, 2010 08:43

  i dont want to criticize your fabrication skills, but are the welds good enough on that motor mount? cause that is the mount with the most load on it.
  
  i think i would have made the actual piece that connects to the rubber mount, i think i would have made it one piece with the block mount plate.. instead of welding a triangle to the mount pad, then the end of the mount to the triangle?
  
  idk, it may work fine. but the welds look a little cold..
  

  
  In no way do I think I'm a great welder. However, to make up for quality, I just applied the quantity theory
  Where it's triangulated at the motor, I have zero worries about strength. Where I'm going to the bracket that bolts up however, I was a little more careful. I ran multiple root welds holding it all together, it's not just one on the top and one on the bottom. There was about a 3/8" or 1/2" gap between the bottom gusset and the 3/8" plate and both sides of that were root welded, another weld to tie those two together and then a wide 4th bead on top that I ground off.
  
  I would've liked to make it beefier, but I had to duck under the turbo outlet and I'm also very close to laying it on the CV, so I didn't have much to work with
  

  
  i would have made the plate that bolts to the engine, one piece like you did, and i would have madr the top plate that bolts to the mount another single piece, and then used a triangulated brace to tie them together..
  
  we will see how it works tho. im about to build a similar motor mount. its going to be based off the mk2/3 VNT mount being offered for WAY TOO MUCH MONEY in the vendors section.. i really like the design of that one.
• #133 by Smokey Eddy on 03 Jan, 2011 13:53
• Things went slightly sour with the amount of work that had to be done and the deadline, which is today.
  The IC plumbing isn't finished (although its very close) the holes on the rear mount dont like up quite right and we lack a big enough drill bit to fix them. Also the down pipe is in question as far as i know. I doubt Matt will be making too much of an appearance on the forum until he has sorted things.
  The engine is in it's just all the details that need to be taken care of.
• #134 by RadoTD on 03 Jan, 2011 19:22
• Ga'ah! I'll have to insure the spare vehicle again. Insurance runs out on the 5th and my list of things still to do was growing almost as quickly as I was crossing things off. I don't work tomorrow, so work will be done then. Still haven't made the downpipe and I'll have to sheild it well from the shifter cables somehow. Probably a combination of header wrap and that flexible heat shielding.
  Also might need to buy some 90deg silicone couplers as I can't find the ones I should have are
  
  I haven't been taking pics, working nearly dawn till dusk every day I have off. Pics will come later on though