Need help. I just messed up bad..

[brandon5]

Alright so i was loosening the timing tentioner to make it a bit tighter and the valve pully moved... so now its not timed correctly. Then to make things worse i ended up moving the injection pump pully. To make things even worse nothings marked...

Im so fricken mad, what can i do to fix this. Im replacing the timing belt soon anyways.

[theman53]

Find someone with the tools to help you. It will be better soon

[brandon5]

I need this fixed asap. Its my daily and i have no way to work as of now.

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

All you need to do, is rotate the engine by hand till crank is at TDC on flywheel. If it won't get there due to valve clash, then slacken cam pulley.
Put engine into gear to keep crank at TDC.
Check that pump pulley notch is at approximate 'midday'  
Get a metal file, and attempt to slot it into the cam slot. [make sure cam lobes for #1, are pointing skywards]. Set cam exactly with feeler gauges wedged in.
rotate tensioner by hand and tighten nut.
Retighten cam pulley slightly ,then remove file etc then using a spanner and a hammer tap spanner sharply, then bolt head then a further rap with the hammer on the spanner.
Out of gear and rotate  2 revolutions, then at TDC attempt to reinsert file and feeler gauges. If they go in then you are safe to start her up.

 Adjust pump to suit...

[theman53]

http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=28

I will post the most important pics from here, but as long as you don't try to run it without knowing for sure the timing is good you'll be fine.
after taking the valve cover off this is what is on the other end of the cam.

If it is down then your engine is on exhaust. Turn it over with a wrench gently to get it over to top dead.

Here is the Top dead center mark on the crank. It has to be here to match the cam.


Here is the IP gear locked where it needs to be. I think an 11mm craftsman socket will hold it just like a tool should. As long as you didn't loosen the IP it "should" be close enough to start and get you to work and back. I wouldn't mess with it until you do the new timing belt.
TURN IT OVER WITH A WRENCH A BUNCH OF TIMES BEFORE HITTING THE STARTER it is important. So is the belt timing. 2 teeth off and it is a bad day for you. Breathe deep it'll be ok.

[theman53]

BTW that is ALL Vince Waldons stuff there.

[brandon5]

So how do i turn the whole engine? Do i put the timing belt back on and kinda wing it? then turn it slowly at the valve pully?

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

So how do i turn the whole engine? Do i put the timing belt back on and kinda wing it? then turn it slowly at the valve pully?

Turn either with a jacked up wheel, and in gear, or with a19mm socket on crank bolt, turnig clockwise only, and out of gear. Do not turn with cam  or pump pulleys as this sets tension in wrong place, and strains belt, and means timing moves 'off' when everything is driven by crank again in real life!

[brandon5]

success!!!! i have tdc on the flywheel. And i rotated the valve pully till it was pointing straight up.

can you further explain this? 

Check that pump pulley notch is at approximate 'midday' 
Get a metal file, and attempt to slot it into the cam slot.

and this

Set cam exactly with feeler gauges wedged in.

[theman53]

Seriously check out Vince's how to on the link I posted. It should have all the answers there for you. I highlighted the main points in the last post.

[Thezorn]

success!!!! i have tdc on the flywheel. And i rotated the valve pully till it was pointing straight up.

can you further explain this? 

Check that pump pulley notch is at approximate 'midday' 
Get a metal file, and attempt to slot it into the cam slot.

and this

Set cam exactly with feeler gauges wedged in.

The easiest thing to do it first, get a 7/16in  1/4in drive deep socket to use to lock the injection pump. There is only 1 hole in the pump pully that this socket will fit in.

Second set the engine to "TDC" Top dead Center as shown above by lining up the marks on the flywheel and the transmision housing. This is when cylinder number 1's piston is all the way at the top of its stroke.

Third, you need to set the can at TDC at Cylinder 1. Which looks like:


and the lobes on the cam with both be completly flat at Cyl. number 1 also.

Double and tripple check everything to make sure the crank is it TDC , your cam is at TDC and your injection pump is locked at the right point.

Lastly put on your timing belt and tensioner, set the tension now your good to go to start it up.

Make sure you remember to check everything even after your t-belt is on just to make sure everything is lined up, since your crank will move alot even with just the slightest movment.

good luck, Will

[fatmobile]

Loosening the tensioner shouldn't allow the timing belt to jump a tooth on the cam sprocket.

 Maybe the sprocket moved,.. but that doesn't matter.

 When you set the tension,
 the cam sprocket should move back to it's original spot.

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

Loosening the tensioner shouldn't allow the timing belt to jump a tooth on the cam sprocket.

 Maybe the sprocket moved,.. but that doesn't matter.

 When you set the tension,
 the cam sprocket should move back to it's original spot.

Actually I think it can sometimes, particularly if the tensioner taken off, to inspect, as the belt can drop away from the small crank pulley, but probably not, if tensioner only slackened.
Having said that, I don't seem to be able to get enough slack on the tensioner to allow it to come off on my engine, without removing belt from cam. Could that be a safety feature if tensioner seized, rotating it anti clockwise would undo it and detension timing belt without it actually jumping.
Pure fantasy probably.

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

success!!!! i have tdc on the flywheel. And i rotated the valve pully till it was pointing straight up.

can you further explain this? 

Check that pump pulley notch is at approximate 'midday' 
Get a metal file, and attempt to slot it into the cam slot.

and this

Set cam exactly with feeler gauges wedged in.

Because the crank rotates at twice the number of times as the other two pulley, one of the flywheel TDC marks corresponds to #4 cylinder compression stroke, and the next TDC will be for #1 cylinder compression stroke.
This is visible by #1 cylinder's cam lobespointing away from the engine. At this point, the cam locking bar, a flat piece of metal will slot into the giant screwdriver slot.

All purchased timing bars are actualy too loose to be used on their own and have to be wedged with feeler gauges to ensure no errors in setting the cam.

At the same time there is also a little notch in the pump pulley which needs to be at the top of the rotation [hence MIDDAY].
Peering behind the pulley at the pump body there is a raised ridge.
The initial timing sets the notch and ridge together.
 
For one of your TDC settings it will be down the bottom as in 6 'o'clock. This is the setting for #4 cylinder, and not 'normally' used.

Driving happiness is found later by adjusting the position of this mark by rotating the pump a little one way or the other.

Forget locking the pump. That is only for replacing an old timing belt during a service, to maintain current happy settings. You are resetting the timing from scratch.

[brandon5]

alright. so the flywheel is at tdc, the pump pully is where it should be with the notch. and i have the cam where it shouldd be. both flat like in the picture. so pretty much put the belt back on check everything again then crank it by hand 2 rotations?