head question...

[CathodeRayTube]

so im having a bit of trouble finding an engine...but local yards here have bits and pieces of them...would a hydraulic head from a NA engine fit on the block of a hydro 1.6 turbo? i think it would..but just double checking..

[BAM]

Yes   I think the part number you are looking for is 068 103 373T.  These heads came on both NA and turbo 1.6l engines.  You may find 068 103 373D from what I remember these came on NA 1.6l engines only.  I believe the castings are the same the difference being the valves in the 373T were sodium filled.  When I was still working for the local VW stealer we always installed the turbo valves no matter what the casting number was.  I also believe the part number for the 1.6l valves have superseded to one part number for intake and one for exhaust, NA or turbo no matter.  Worst case get a 373D and chances are pretty good the valves have been updated.  Cheers

[Rabbit on Roids]

a hydraulic 1.6 turbo block will take a hydraulic 1.6 n/a head just fine.

[8v-of-fury]

If you do happen to get one without the sodium filled valves, its not really a BIG deal.

It just means you gotta keep the egt's a few hundred Fahrenheit lower.

How does PA do for winter weather? While your searching for a head... might as well go ahead and get a 1.9 AAZ head !

[theman53]

Don't worry too much about the "D" and "T" suffix. We have figured out that VW had no real casting #s to identify a turbo and N/A head. The best you can do is use that as a rule of thumb, but both had each kind of valve in them. And either way you should be fine.

[CathodeRayTube]

im unsure of how its related to engines (doesnt bother me at all tho, happy for the conversation), but this past winter we had like 5 feet of snow on the ground at one point, wich was ALLOT for us..hasnt snowed liek that since about 1994. usually we get maybe 10" max...but i like the snow, so the more the better. During my activities today of calling every junkyard in the yellow pages, i think i did run into somebody who had a 1.9...but not sure..my brain was fixated on the 1.6 so i didnt really remember.

Thus far i have found several sources that have complete engines..all either very far away, very expensive, not exactly what im looking for, or all of the above...for $2200+shipping i can have an SB code engine with around 80k (wich ultimately is what i wanted - water cooled turbo) shipped here from CA..where it was brought over from germany before it wound up in CA. Then theres and MF code one about 200 miles away...but it has over 200K miles on it and they want around $900 for it..then theres a CY in an old quantum thats closer...but they want around $850 for it. And then there is another CY or JR code one with mechanical heads, local wich i went and looked at...but its been sitting outside in pieces for 5 years with the head off under a shower curtan, needs new turbo seals, has a cracked intermediate shaft? pulley (the aluminum one on the side that the timing belt runs in), among other things wrong with it...but i thought that looked like the best option thus far, i could probably rebuild it and settle for the mech head...

I really didnt want to spend more than $500 on the engine...i thought this was a reasonable goal since gas engines at the local U-pull-its normally go for around 200 and because i bought a running 1.5D out of a 79 rabbit off craigslist for $100...

there is also another local yard, who said they had a 1.6TD, but they junked the car it was in 3 days ago...they said to call back tomorrow and theyl try to figure out where it went/what happened to it...so im hoping that will come thru...

[8v-of-fury]

I only asked about winters there because throwing a 1.9 AAZ head on the 1.6 bottom (which will bolt right on btw) will drop compression to like 17.5 instead of the 23.5 it had before.. and cause hard really really cold starts. So i was pretty much asking for what temps you get there..

[CathodeRayTube]

oh ok. well in the winter it can get down to like 20F...usually not much colder. i had planned to go nuts with electrical preheaters also on injector lines among other places. if the AAZ head lowers the CR that much, does it make it into a non-interference engine? as in it moves the valves further away from the piston?  that alone may be a reason to put one on if it works like that and would prevent disaster should the belt snap...frankly i think thats a crappy design...using a belt where there should be a chain or gears...

[8v-of-fury]

Still interference. but yes it lowers it that much because the pre-chambers are bigger among other things.. and it was never designed to run on a 1.6 bottom. Valves still come to within thousandths of the pistons IIRC.

Also food for thought, timing chains break/slip/skip more often then our belts do. If it were a chain setup, and each chain link stretched a ten-thousandth of an inch (not too bad on a Gasser motor as it can be band-aid fixed by turning the distributor) it would be enough to allow the pistons to hit the valves on their way to TDC. Our belts are designed with Kevlar in them if I am not mistaken.. and for them to snap, either something has to snap it physically, or it has been on there way longer then the service life of the product. Gears would probably be the best way to have the crank/cam/pump setup on the diesels. Then leave all the adjustment to the turning of the pump (much like how it is now )

[CathodeRayTube]

so this morning i called the one local yard back who said they had just gotten rid of a jetta with a 1.6 TD in it...they told me to call back this morning and they would try to get it back from the recyclers...but it was shredded already...

[arsenicpants]

but it was shredded already...

balls on a stick

[Baron VonZeppelin]

Start searching the Ontario Canada version of craigslist.
Something like fijijiji .....
Or they may have a craigslist too ?

The MF with 200k miles sounds like the best bang for buck of all those you mentioned. New rings gaskets and headgasket would probably put it back as new.

The Quantum engine will require purchase of a lot of extra parts.
In addition to the rebuild expenses.

You will not find a good running watercooled turbo VW Diesel engine in the USA for $500. It is a rarity to find one period.
You would be fortunate and lucky to find a conventional 1.6TD that runs and is complete for $500 in the USA.

A complete 1.6TD core to rebuild for $500 is even lucky now.

In reality - just a used full turbo conversion (ALL external garments) retails for around $500. No engine included.

In Canada, the supply is much more plentiful, and the demand is much much less. The price market changes dramatically for them up there.

Not saying that someday a junkyard somewhere in the USA won't have an 85 or 86 Jetta TD come in and someone scores a lucky deal. But those days are just about over for us. And usually it happens when you least need it and least expect it.

On a local scale, your best bet is a complete rusty/wrecked/ragged Jetta for sale by owner who isn't exactly 'in the know'.

People have hard times just giving away 1.5 11mm NA diesel engines. But that still was a good deal in its own right, being complete and running good.

[rabbitman]

Toyota 22R's have a timing chain and they last forever (250K sometimes), and they rattle when it's time to change it. Kit's also come with a new cover in case it did break.

[Rabbit on Roids]

Toyota 22R's have a timing chain and they last forever (250K sometimes), and they rattle when it's time to change it. Kit's also come with a new cover in case it did break.

only way they last 250k on one timing chain is if they never see over 3000 rpms. every other 22r ive worked on needs a new chain every 60-100k miles. i change them right when they start slapping, rather than when they slap a hole in the timing cover and make the engine overheat because the coolant is now in the oil pan..

every 22r timing kit ive ever bought, didnt come with the cover, or the gaskets.. when they eat the timing cover, i just get a used timing cover. dime a dozen used, or a couple hundred bucks new..

ive seen soo many of these engines with bad timing chains and they will actually eat the guides away..

[theman53]

AND
the 22r gets to that point because the chain stretches. If our engines had that happen it wouldn't be good on the valves.