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#15
by
the caveman
on 07 Jul, 2010 20:25
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Does it cost more or less when Giles doesn't have a lab coat on?
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#16
by
burn_your_money
on 07 Jul, 2010 20:31
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I heard rumors that it was 47 degrees C with the humidity today so I was lucky to get him to do any work at all
And yes Todd, that is the man known as Giles
I think the paint is called Machine Grey or something to that effect. I'll check tomorrow.
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#17
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 07 Jul, 2010 22:22
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I heard rumors that it was 47 degrees C with the humidity today...
OUCH !
Thats 116 F !
Was only 99 with index of 107 here today.
Tomorrow its supposed to be hotter.
We've been running about 10+ F degrees over normal averages for past 2 months. Had one 'mild' spell for few days about a week ago.
Its been murder. And it aint even August yet ......
The pix look grey or blue. It was a tuff call.
I'm guessing Giles made you get all the purplepink paint off before he would touch that pump. It worked out for the better. lol
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#18
by
catlin_cava
on 08 Jul, 2010 05:21
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1 week ago I was driving in the middle of the after noon with the heated seat on, today its 33 and going to feel like 40.....
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#19
by
burn_your_money
on 08 Jul, 2010 21:16
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Machine gray is the name of the paint
After searching the forums for hours I decided that it would be best to peen my precups since they were loosey-goosey in their holes. I placed the headgasket on the head and peened 2 areas that were inside the combustion area, away from the sealing ring on the headgasket.
Because the AAZ is a bit taller then the 1.6 I had this spacer made for the exhaust.
As you can see it was a bit too small. This fixed it
Some progress
I had to make an EGR block off plate for my intake
Luckily I don't like throwing things out and I was able to find a hose that worked perfectly for my CCV
I wanted to bolt the tranny up to the engine tonight but I noticed that my clutch push rod had extreme play in it. I had the bushing but no seal. Hopefully it will come in tomorrow and then it's time to go for a test drive
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#20
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 08 Jul, 2010 22:19
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Looking Good and coming along Great.
....except for that nasty looking shortblock !
Just a suggestion - get an old paint brush and degrease it (engine) with mineral spirits. Let dry. Buy a pint (0.5 ltr) of oil base enamel [insert color here]. Brush 2 coats with a decent brush.
Will look like new and hold up for years.
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#21
by
burn_your_money
on 09 Jul, 2010 05:08
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Thanks Todd. Unfortunately time is of the essence. I figure I'll deal with the block when I rebuild that in a few years.
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#22
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 09 Jul, 2010 10:15
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I use to try to keep an open mind about time, years ago.
But time suxx, it just does !
After you get running good and settled into new destination, you could just use Gunk degreaser on shortblock and rinse. Wait a day. Then brush on a couple coats. The brush is easy to do versus spraying/masking and gives better film build.
Minimal masking required.
I use a 1" brush with handle cut off.
Will go about anywhere you want it to.
I do spray the valve covers, but you got that covered already.
It all looks so good otherwise, i'd have to slap some paint on that block. But too, i'm a painter anyway.
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#23
by
Smokey Eddy
on 09 Jul, 2010 14:44
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Hey Tyler! you and I at the same time! Except your intake is better than mine.
I removed a similar amount of material from my head too but this was the second time going at it!
What really gives you a 1up is the injection pump work you've got.
all i've got in mine is really good dynamic advance and a 1.6td boost pin and almost no governor.
when i ported my valves i used the carbon shadow outline as a guide for material to remove and i tried my best to carry the width all the way down the runners. but i got scared quickly and flap wheeled it.
my flap wheel got the finish a little smoother than that but your exhaust ports look much nicer than mine.
oh and i got a piece of something in my eye and had to go to a walk in clinic and get viscous drops for my eyes... they got visciously infected within a couple hours. Glad to see you were more careful (i did wear eye protection)
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#24
by
burn_your_money
on 09 Jul, 2010 20:49
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I'm really not that worried about the block. My bay looks like crap and I don't want to fully overhaul this car any time soon.
You are crazy Eddy. I was worried taking that much off! I was quite afraid of getting too close to a coolant passage and causing a crack or overheating problem.
How do my exhaust ports look better then yours? Have you posted pictures? I did use a flap wheel but I didn't bother trying to get it super smooth. It's going to be full of oil or soot soon enough so I just see it as wasted effort.
That piece of something must have hurt. Is your eye healed?
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#25
by
burn_your_money
on 09 Jul, 2010 20:54
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In ya go
Here's a neat trick for pushing the bushing out so you can get your alternator in place easily
Here I'm using a prybar to hold the rotor from turning so I can torque my inner CV bolts. The prybar is wedged against the ground. Also notice the elastic on the triple square bit
Closer
Done! (enough to take it for a quick test drive anyways) - Notice the lack of rad support/headlights.
I installed one of these thin rad fans because all the mounting points were rotted off my fan shroud and rad.
And here is a horrible, horrible video of test run #1
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#26
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 10 Jul, 2010 10:54
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those inj. lines are sweet lookin, they aaz specific? they are bent alot differently than the 1.6 lines im used to..
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#27
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 11 Jul, 2010 09:07
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I cant do the videos with my turtlecharged internet.
Whats the count on test runs up to now - hows it doing so far - all biscuits and gravies staying in place ?
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#28
by
burn_your_money
on 12 Jul, 2010 20:25
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Thanks, and yes they are AAZ specific. Taller injectors and longer delivery valve holders...
You aren't missing much of anything Todd, it's a miserable video. So far only the one test drive. I was at my friends cottage all weekend so it has been waiting patiently for some more attention.
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#29
by
veector
on 16 Jul, 2010 05:03
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nice progress man
