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#15
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 13 Jun, 2010 17:38
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Compression test required, before someone links your hard starting to your rear drum shoes 
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#16
by
burn_your_money
on 13 Jun, 2010 20:16
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I'd say turn it over by hand and give it a good listening too. Maybe have someone work the clutch while you are turning it over to see if any sounds change.
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#17
by
vdubspeed
on 14 Jun, 2010 04:13
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I'll get the comp numbers soon. It's either the engine, the injection pump or something in the clutch area.
I actually drove the car yesterday! Shifted fine. I still think a spring is dead or something. For sure the t/o bearing is shot because the noise goes away when I push in the clutch.
Here's what I believe to be the CURRENT pertinent facts:
1. Before the incident everything was perfect besides it being slow.
2. Loud noise occured.
3. Let the car cool down and it started running again
4. Had to make MAJOR adjustments to the IP to get it to run. Three FULL rotations(much more than the usual 1/8 adjustments) and practically pull the idle screw all the way out.
5. It will NOT run at pre-incident settings
Last questions...do injection pumps get real hot? I mean the fuel temp coming in is like 90 and leaving is in the 130s. And the pump itself is at like 160.
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#18
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 14 Jun, 2010 07:54
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thats what made me think the clutch went t!ts up..
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#19
by
8v-of-fury
on 14 Jun, 2010 07:55
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I would assume a hot injection pump is normal, after all it is aluminum(very good conductor of heat) and connected to an iron block making in excess of 400F every power stroke.. but i have never actually felt it, or measured temps.. so what do i know.
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#20
by
burn_your_money
on 14 Jun, 2010 09:55
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They get hot enough that you'll burn your hands on them if you are pushing enough fuel.
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#21
by
rabbitman
on 14 Jun, 2010 11:15
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I would assume a hot injection pump is normal, after all it is aluminum(very good conductor of heat) and connected to an iron block making in excess of 400F every power stroke.. but i have never actually felt it, or measured temps.. so what do i know.
Actually it's MUCH hotter than 400F inside the combustion chamber but outside the block the heat is no more than the t-stats temp rating.
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#22
by
vdubspeed
on 14 Jun, 2010 16:46
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Well I still haven't comp tested it.
Had a moment today to play with it. Cranked up good cold. Drove it around the block and was blowing smoke, missing a little but was running.
I decided to see if I could get any fuel out of the seperator and a little poured out. After that
I said f it...I'll try to go back to pre-incident settings. Wouldn't even crank. Put it all back to post incident settings and backed of the fuel and it started idling PERFECT. Only a little smoke and seemed great.
I took off to a friends about two miles away. Sure enough...got to about 40mph and it started slowing and then stalled while driving. Primed the system with the electrical pump and it cranked back up.
Got to my friends and shut it down. Started it back up about 10 minutes later and headed home.
Got about 1 mile and it quit. Would restart. Got a pull home and while coming home I dropped the clutch in 3rd and it cranked up and started idling.
I think it might be starving for fuel or something. I have a Mr. Gasket electric pump/filter right after the tank. I'll pull it this weekend to see if it's clogged.
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#23
by
theman53
on 15 Jun, 2010 15:56
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Did you try running from a fresh jar of diesel or a different fuel cap yet?
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#24
by
rabbitman
on 16 Jun, 2010 12:34
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There's a filter inside the tank that could be clogged, you can get to it through the cover under the rear seat.
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#25
by
FoXBoXRaCiNG
on 16 Jun, 2010 15:55
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Sounds like a friends Cummins, he installed a lift pump on the frame rail to have at least an idle, replaced the IP to no avail, my suggestion of pickup screen was the culprit... Simple suggestion, disconnect fuel line before IP and put into a jar to view, then pressurize the tank via the fuel cap by way of air hose and a rag, see what comes out, and how fast!?!?!
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#26
by
rabbitman
on 16 Jun, 2010 21:27
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Well I still haven't comp tested it.
Had a moment today to play with it. Cranked up good cold. Drove it around the block and was blowing smoke, missing a little but was running.
I decided to see if I could get any fuel out of the seperator and a little poured out. After that
I said f it...I'll try to go back to pre-incident settings. Wouldn't even crank. Put it all back to post incident settings and backed of the fuel and it started idling PERFECT. Only a little smoke and seemed great.
I took off to a friends about two miles away. Sure enough...got to about 40mph and it started slowing and then stalled while driving. Primed the system with the electrical pump and it cranked back up.
Got to my friends and shut it down. Started it back up about 10 minutes later and headed home.
Got about 1 mile and it quit. Would restart. Got a pull home and while coming home I dropped the clutch in 3rd and it cranked up and started idling.
I think it might be starving for fuel or something. I have a Mr. Gasket electric pump/filter right after the tank. I'll pull it this weekend to see if it's clogged.
Mine did all that in '06 and then sorta randomly fixed itself and has never done it since.
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#27
by
vdubspeed
on 17 Jun, 2010 10:02
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hey guys...haven't touched this thing in a few days. Will do some work on it for sure this weekend.
you guys have given me a ton of great advice which I will be doing all of them.
Here's what I'll be doing.
1. checking the intank filter
2. bypassing the electric pump with it's small ass filter
3. checking how well the lines flow
4. doing a comp test
5. running it straight from a source of diesel.
It's cranks up fine when cold I just have to give it a ton of fuel. If I turn the fuel screw down to preincident postion it will stall. As for the idle set...it's BARELY on the the screw...almost on the screw boss.
I just wish it was back to pre-incident running. Ran so good before.
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#28
by
vdubspeed
on 19 Jun, 2010 18:20
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Here's what I'll be doing.
1. checking the intank filter
2. bypassing the electric pump with it's small ass filter
3. checking how well the lines flow
4. doing a comp test
5. running it straight from a source of diesel.
Okay...today's results.
1. great flow from the tank. Assume intank filter fine.
2. removed the electric pump which was RIGHT after the tank where a CIS pump was. Noticed that I couldn't even suck fuel through by my mouth. Figured neither could the injection pump so I set it aside and just ran a straight hose.
3. Lines flow great.
4. Comp results. 360 360 360 320. According to the Bentley they are low BUT...they are close enough and my 19.99 harbor freight setup might not be perfectly accurate.
5. Didn't do.
GOOD news. After bleeding the system, it started running better. NEVER shut off after 30 minutes of driving. Hot start was good 4 out of 5 times. I would be rolling during a hot start though so I could popstart it if need be.
What I noticed.
It misses. When accellerating it honestly feels like it's a gas car with a spark plug missing....kinda like a bad coil pack or something.
Also...when floored in gear, it starts good, bogs down a little/misses/ then on the top end of the gear starts to pull good but by then it's time to shift. Rinse repeat.
Last thing I noticed. When I got home and let it sit...I tried to restart and no go. Noticed a TON of smoke and it almost caught but never did. Turned the fuel screw out 1 full rotation to lean it up and it cranked right up.
It's definitely getting better. Hell I'd rock it as is if I could get the mis thing figured out.
Thanks,
Jason
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#29
by
burn_your_money
on 19 Jun, 2010 18:34
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I think your hot start problem is related to a bad voltage drop.
The missing is probably air in the system. Run if off a separate can and see what happens. If you can hook a vacuum gauge up to the pump post filter that would be ideal.