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#135
by
Smokey Eddy
on 22 Jul, 2010 14:16
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This is a continuation of my build progress, please still reply to the vacuum pump question.
It seems to me you could use an inline check valve from another car, and just leave the dead one in place?
the whole nipple on the lid of the pump has snapped off. I have to remove it somehow and put a new one in the lid. I just wont use a check valve. I'm okay with not having power breaks after i turn the car off.
I'll put a clear line on there and look for oil
it will be an experiment!
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#136
by
Smokey Eddy
on 22 Jul, 2010 14:18
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i would pull the caps off everything. it was starved for oil. or do you wanna find out that your rod bearings were bad like the last engine?
Yeah exactly... I'm going to pin point the source of the noise exactly 6 hours from the time of this post.
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#137
by
Smokey Eddy
on 22 Jul, 2010 14:30
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Just an FYI, but I once actually ran one engine with the oil supply to one of the main bearings accidentally completely blocked off. It actually ran flawlessly for about two weeks before seizing on a shift. That was very impressive to me. Didn't even damage the crank, the bearing smear just buffed off. That said, I'd definitely pull it apart.
Also, on running without the check valve, I wanted to mention that the crank oil getting into the brake booster might wreck the diaphragm.
oh jeeze. Guess i gotta get some new bolts then. =(
Will it be sufficient to just check the ones i can get at from the oil pan? (ie. avoid dropping the crank out with the pressureplate,flywheel & clutch)
Are the main bolts torque to yield? for some reason i don't remember them being TTY
Sometimes i feel like a real moron. I don't think I've been sleeping enough.
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#138
by
Vincent Waldon
on 22 Jul, 2010 15:16
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You can do everything you need to do by dropping the oil pan... all the rod bearings and all the main bearings. Crank can stay happily in place. Both sets of hardware are TTY.
I'm with Andrew... I think your main bearings are gonna prove to be fine... but you gotta sacrifice some bolts to confirm. My personal interweb guess, just for fun, is some scuffing on the rod bearings... given the way you describe the sound and the PSI's on the bearings.
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#139
by
Smokey Eddy
on 22 Jul, 2010 15:45
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Thanks for the help guys. I know im reluctant to assist the stupid so i thank you all for providing your support.
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#140
by
catlin_cava
on 22 Jul, 2010 19:20
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i would pull the caps off everything. it was starved for oil. or do you wanna find out that your rod bearings were bad like the last engine?
Yeah exactly... I'm going to pin point the source of the noise exactly 6 hours from the time of this post.
TIMES UP!!!!!!!!
I hope nothing major is busted, I hope nothing is busted
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#141
by
Smokey Eddy
on 22 Jul, 2010 20:34
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I'm really embarrassed to say that the infernal racket was actually just the turbo coming free of the manifold. It had almost completely fallen off. One of the bolts is missing which i need to replace. and the others were finger tight...
boy do i feel like a moron. I tightened it up and ran it a bit. still smokes a little white/blue on idle. starts up good. What i do need to know is how the wiring for the alternator works? is the blue wire supposed to be insulated from the body of the alternator? my battery light is still on and my turn signals still don't work. Multimeter said it was charging at 14.6 and when turned off went down to about 13.5
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#142
by
burn_your_money
on 22 Jul, 2010 20:39
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Thanks for the help guys. I know im reluctant to assist the stupid so i thank you all for providing your support.
Don't be so hard on yourself. We all make silly mistakes, you just have the kahunas to post them on the net
Did you realize that the turbo was loose before you dropped the pan?
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#143
by
Vincent Waldon
on 22 Jul, 2010 21:05
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Multimeter said it was charging at 14.6 and when turned off went down to about 13.5
That sounds fine. The 13.5V will slowly drop down to 12.6ish as the battery settles over several minutes... 12.6 being the typical resting voltage of a fully-charged battery at room temperature.
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#144
by
Smokey Eddy
on 22 Jul, 2010 21:15
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Wow made some incredible progress today
Tyler, i noticed the leak when i tried to start it i saw huge amounts of exhaust coming from where exhaust shouldn't!!! looked at it and i could easily fit a pencil in the gap.
I had the blue wire grounding to the body of the alternator and it shouldn't be so i insulated it with a nylon washer! No more battery light! Huzzah!
now to fix those freakin turn signals... I think it might possibly? be headlight related. I got really cheap headlights from princess auto i think im going to go back to the regular 9006's or what ever they are.
One thing to note though is my speedo doesn't work anymore
the cable is all loosey-goosey. must have come out of the cluster.
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#145
by
745 turbogreasel
on 22 Jul, 2010 22:15
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I know you can rip the guts out of the speedo cable if you drop the trans without unhooking it
IIRC blue wire is tach W terminal...
Smoke at idle...You aren't done breaking the poor thing in!
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#146
by
rabbitman
on 23 Jul, 2010 00:12
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I'm really embarrassed to say that the infernal racket was actually just the turbo coming free of the manifold. It had almost completely fallen off. One of the bolts is missing which i need to replace. and the others were finger tight...
boy do i feel like a moron. I tightened it up and ran it a bit. still smokes a little white/blue on idle. starts up good.
I was gonna tell you to check the turbo bolts
jk.
Do you have an oil pressure gauge? What's the pressure? I'd say if it has good pressure run it. If it starts getting louder/lower oil pressure over time then you should check stuff. But that's just my worthless opinion
. Look up on youtube and see how long these run with no oil or coolant and revved to the moon.
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#147
by
Smokey Eddy
on 23 Jul, 2010 00:20
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yeah it drives progressively better with every kilometer!!!
I must have nackered the cable then.
i didn't remove it before dropping the trans. its really loose and weird.
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#148
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 23 Jul, 2010 08:47
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its gonna take a thousand or so miles before it quits smoking and starts up real easy..
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#149
by
Smokey Eddy
on 27 Jul, 2010 10:50
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So i took it camping with 2 buddies and all our crap for three days. It did okay. Had an inredibly annoying tendancy to pop boost hoses off... even with T-clamps...
It did alright but i noticed that at low-ish rpm (i dont have a tach yet) it would really ... shake? the car. it would feel like how an unbalanced tire feels except it was only at low rpm, under load, in a gear like 4th or 5th and was rpm dependant.
I have a 200mm pushrod plate in my 210mm clutch im wondering if that might be off center and causing the unbalance?
I don't notice anything at idle but i have the idle set rather high for the moment.
will post more + video later.