Well hello, fellow Diesel Volks!
As some of you have probably noticed, Burn_your_money and I have been up to something suspiciously resembling monkey business-- with camshafts! It’s absolutely true, and here’s the deal.
I’d like to officially present the
Dr. Diesel Stage 1 Hydraulic Performance IDI Cam for Hydraulic engines.Testing performed on Giles Pump equipped, modified AAZ vehicles has shown
repeatable average gains of 6hp, and 18 ft. lbs.
That’s a 4% gain in hp and 6% gain in torque. *edit* A Giles-pumped 1.6L N/A gained 7% hp and dropped 1.36 seconds in the quarter mile.To put this into perspective: An 8v gas engine, with it’s free-flowing manifolds and comparatively HUGE valves, typically gains 6% hp and torque with the installation of a stage 1 (268°) camshaft.
This cam is on par with typical cam upgrades in the gas engine world!
Testing so far has been limited to 1.9L AAZ and 1.6L N/A engines. Results from 1.6L TD will be forthcoming in the next short while. I expect similar results on the 1.6L TD.
The two main test vehicles are powered by fresh AAZ engines, each with ported head, Giles pump, intercooler, decent-to-good exhaust system, running on straight diesel. For what it’s worth, one comparison was with a 1.6L N/A cam vs this performance cam.
This cam has been tested on a stock pump engine as well. A stock AAZ K03 Passat with only a 2.5” turbo-back exhaust is our test mule. While actual test numbers on this vehicle are pending, installation of the cam made a noticeable improvement in the upper-midrange,
despite being hobbled by a stock pump! The mid range power delivery improves similar to the Giles pump engines, but is cut short by the rev limiter and other shortcomings within a stock pump. Kind of like the electricity going out just as the opening credits begin to roll in a 5-star movie you’ve waited months to see. A Giles pump really allows the cam to shine. It goes without saying, other mods that help airflow will add to the effect.
Based on our test vehicles’ results, it’s reasonable to expect results similar to the following:
(Your results may vary)
-Noticeable, seat-of-the-pants improvement in mid to upper-mid range power.
-Significant drop in both quarter mile times and 0-60 times. (B3 Passat -0.75sec, A1 Cab -1.3sec q-mile tested)
-EGT’s similar or lower. (Depending on your configuration, it is possible the newfound improvement in airflow might find your turbine section slightly restrictive, leading to EGT gains. This has not been demonstrated, but is a theoretical possibility.)
-~2 psi boost potential increase. (Two of the test cars had disconnected wastegates, and gained 2psi upon installation of the cam.)
Some observations peculiar to individual test vehicles:
-No noticeable change in off-boost performance. (K03-003 AAZ)
-1-2 seconds longer cranking time to start below 0°C (actual start reliability unchanged)
-Slightly softer off-boost power.
-Slightly smokier off-boost until full operating temperature (this car’s turbo was failing, and hadn’t been replaced before the test cam was removed. It is highly likely the observed smoke was due to leaking shaft seals as similar phenomena was not demonstrated across the board.)
*edit* Definitely a turbo problem here. Smoke went away with a new turbo installed.
Here are the specs:
Intake: 196° @ 0.050” lift, 0.351” total lift
Exhaust: 198° @ 0.050” lift, 0.351” total lift
Upcoming test vehicles include:
-Stock 1.6L n/a
-Modified 1.6L TD K03 w/ Giles pump
-Stock 1.9L n/a w/ Giles pump
-Stock 1.9L K03
-Stock 1.9L K03 w/ Giles pump
-Modified 1.9L K03 w/ Giles pump
-Ultra-modified 1.9L VNT-22 w/ 12mm Giles pump
Fuel economy tests are pending. No outstanding differences have been noted thus far.
We have measured valve and piston movement to a resolution of ten-thousandths of an inch, and half a degree crank rotation. On a properly timed engine with the correct head gasket for its piston protrusion (as per Bentley manual), there are absolutely no worries of valve-to-piston interference. That said,
I cannot be responsible for any possible damage resulting in the installation and use of this cam. There are far too many variables.
For example, an engine builder may have deliberately or accidentally changed dimensions beyond factory specs. Or, perhaps the head gasket is one size too thin. (Possible to get away with depending on piston protrusion and a stock cam) ETC.
Furthermore,
I do not guarantee the gains we’ve achieved during testing will be duplicated by your setup. Your results could be more, or less, depending on your configuration. Again, too many variables involved.
For safety’s sake, I strongly recommend the following:
1. With the cam removed, pull out the lifters one-by-one and push the lifter piston in, collapsing the lifter. Gentle pressure with a C-clamp might make this easier. Don't scratch any of the lifter surfaces! Oil will come out the supply hole in the side of the lifter. Re-install into the lifter bore. This will ensure that any residual oil pressure won't over extend a lifter while the cam's out causing a valve to remain off its seat even when 'closed'.
2. After cam installation and timing, remove the vacuum pump and have a helper spin the oil pump shaft with a drill and appropriate driver. Once the oil pressure light goes out (key on, injection pump stop solenoid unplugged and/or injector unions cracked to prevent ignition) turn the engine over by hand 6-8 full revolutions to ensure clearance. Pulling the injectors or glowplugs would make turning very easy and elimninate the possibility of confusing compression with piston/valve contact.
I repeat: An engine within factory tolerances and cam timing should not have any clearance issues.
Pricing
I’m happy to be able to offer these cams at a very reasonable price.
$175 plus a $50 refundable core charge. (Cdn $)
You may send me a core in advance or wait for your own cam to be machined to skip the core charge entirely.
1.6L and 1.9L hydraulic cams in decent condition are accepted as cores. No solid lifter cams at this time. If your core has damage, please disclose it prior to sending. It may still be useable. Please contact me if you have core cams you’d like to sell outside of a performance cam purchase.
A great deal of time, effort and money has been put into this project, and I’m proud to be the little guy with an effective product the big cam companies have never thought of bothering with. Many thanks to Burn_Your_Money for his assistance in all the tedious measuring .
Thanks for your consideration, and happy dieseling!
RESULTS UPDATE 1
Today I tested a cam in a 1.6L N/A equipped with a Giles pump and a MK3 dual downpipe with a 2.25" Techtonics Tuning exhaust system.
Testing was performed with a Gtech, 6 runs total, 3 in each direction on the same patch of road. The results were averaged.
Before:
41.8 NET HP (affected by aerodynamic drag) Quarter mile 21.55 sec @ 64.9 MPH. (averaged over three runs)
After:
44.6 NET HP, 20.19 sec @72.2mph averaged over 3 runs.
That's a drop of 1.36 seconds over the quarter mile, and a gain of 7.3 MPH, and a 7% increase in HP!
Update 2
The testimonial from the above 1.6L N/A customer:
"Hey bro,
I just wanted to say that cam you installed is amazing. The engine feels much smoother in day2day driving, and keeps pulling steady at high rpm where it used to go flat. Another cool thing I noticed is in conditions where I used to have to drop it into 4th to make it up a long hill, I can now leave it in 5th. Awesome! Now my n/a puts me in danger of getting a ticket. Who'da thunk it?! I can't wait for the ported head and supercharger install you promised!
Thanks again, man!"
*name clipped to protect he who used to be innocent
*
Update #3
I came across a scenario recently where an AAZ engine refused to accept this camshaft. I found this out the 'easy way' by using the abovementioned steps. This engine is boarderline between a 1 notch gasket and a 2 notch gasket based on the recalled measured piston projection. It has a 1 notch gasket installed. I also learned that the flywheel's original timing mark had been clumsily machined off during the lightening process. A chisel stamp in 'the right place' had been substituted. I played with cam positioning slightly to see if it would clear, with no conclusive results. From this, I have to underscore the importance of double checking fitment in your engine. If your engine is very close to needing the next thicker head gasket, you might not have enough clearance, and may need to change up to the next thicker. My race rabbit is a 1 notch engine with a 3 notch gasket. While it takes what I would say is 2-3 more cranks to start in the bitter cold, it indeed runs just fine.
Moral: Be very diligent in your clearance checks!
Update #4
Giles is now supplying these cams. Please contact him directly.
