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#585
by
libbydiesel
on 22 Mar, 2013 22:21
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[(43.2^2)/(60.41^2)]*100
[1866.24/3649.37]*100
51.14 trim
I wouldn't want any realistic points on the map over the surge line.
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#586
by
8v-of-fury
on 22 Mar, 2013 22:39
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Ahh I did not know this mathematical equation lol.
Well in all honesty, I do not know any realistic RPM points for my engine I guess lol. I suppose max boost could probably come on later than 2900.. but that would be fueling dependent wouldn't it?
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#587
by
RabbitJockey
on 22 Mar, 2013 23:05
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I wouldn't sweat being that close to the surge line. All te lines are fuzzy on te map depending on environmental changes there is wiggle room. If half of the full boost rpm range was in it then yeah I'd be worried
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#588
by
8v-of-fury
on 22 Mar, 2013 23:18
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#589
by
Rock3tman
on 24 Mar, 2013 03:48
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My 1983 Jetta trunk looks almost identical...I'd check your body sheetmetal at top of left and right taillight housings (midway around side corners) for little cracks. My water came in either there and/or at the failed trunk lock gasket/escutcheon. My trunk gaskets are fine.
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#590
by
8v-of-fury
on 30 Mar, 2013 01:32
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#591
by
8v-of-fury
on 30 Mar, 2013 01:42
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#592
by
ORCoaster
on 30 Mar, 2013 02:09
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It is bent like that because somewhere along the line someone dropped it off a jack or ran over a large rock or stump. Take it off front and back and straighten it out you will have even greater shifter goodness when you do. Be assured, I have done it and it makes a world of difference for 1st and 2nd lining up correctly.
Hey stuff happens.
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#593
by
8v-of-fury
on 30 Mar, 2013 02:17
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Straighten the rod? Or is it just the Selector Lever that is bent on the rod? I gave it a go while still in the car, but until I get new bushings if I go that route.. it will wait lol.
I may upgrade to the 02A before too long if everything plays out, so bye bye rod shifter.
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#594
by
ORCoaster
on 30 Mar, 2013 02:33
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I think the rod is bent behind the bracket. Trying to rebend it in place is just going to mess up the bushings. You really need to take it out and look down it or lay it flat on something very straight. Got a 6 foot level? That is what I used to see the bump.
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#595
by
8v-of-fury
on 31 Mar, 2013 04:19
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I did not remove the rod to re bend, it is perfect where it is now. No guess that every gear is exactly where it should be ecery time. PERFECTION.
Lathered some Teflon based lubricant on all the joints, stuff is designed to be submerged in water on marine stern drive lower ends.. so its not coming off till I wipe it off.
Its literally a brand new car right now. New struts/shocks springs and mounts, new tie-rods, got it aligned, new brakes at all corners, got my summer wheels on and balanced, shifting aligned..
Gonna do an oil change, and at the same time pull the pan and check things out in there, Probably pull all the crap off the passenger side of the engine and stop one of two oil leaks.. I will then maybe think of addressing the tranny leak, wth why is that flange seal leaking? I put a new green sleeve in and everything. What a piss-off lol. So if I do that, I'll probably fill it back up with syncromesh
and enjoy the extra shifty feels from that too.
Regarding the oil change.. I run a 0w40.. its expensive haha, if I cannot nip this damn oil leak.. I may consider thicker oils or DINO
Engine calls for a 505 right? But the same turbo on my brothers AAZ can run a 15-40 DINO, so why can the AHU not?
Specifications - The oil specified for use in the Volkswagen TDi for current models meets the "API Service CG-4" rating. This mark means that the oil has been tested for use in Diesel (C = compression ignition) engines to meet the requirements of a test level called "G" in a 4-stroke engine. The oil may also have been tested for use engines fueled by gasoline, methanol, propane, or other fuels ignited by a spark plug (S = spark ignition). The "S" ratings (SG, SH, SJ, etc.) have no bearing on the suitability of the oil to protect a Diesel fueled engine from the special demands imposed by the higher compression ratios and the tendency for all diesel engines to place soot in the oil.
Since there is little difference internally between the earlier and later engines, it is only prudent to use oil meeting the latest standards, even in the earlier models. The latest standard is CH-4, and the one previous to that is CG-4. Many oils which have CG-4 printed on the packaging actually meet CH-4, but due to the time taken to use up old packaging, it is only the labeling which is not up to date.
The information in this section refers to API service classes which are North American standards. Different standards for engine oils are used in Europe and elsewhere. It should be noted that since this vehicle was developed in Europe, it is much easier to determine whether a European engine oil is suitable. Any synthetic oil meeting the specification VW 505.00 is suitable for use with this engine with the full recommended oil change interval. The VW 505.00 is the manufacturer's own specification, but in North America this specification is rarely seen, so we must rely on the API grades.
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#596
by
8v-of-fury
on 31 Mar, 2013 04:22
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EDIT:
Oils which are suitable for the full recommended oil change interval in all climates include, but aren't limited to:
Mobil Delvac 1, 5w40 (full synthetic, a reformulated version of Mobil 1 which is intended for diesel engines)
Chevron Delo 400, 5w40 (full synthetic version)
Shell Rotella T (full synthetic version, not to be confused with Rotella SB synthetic blend or regular Rotella T non-synthetic)
Amsoil Series 3000, 5w30 (full synthetic, CH-4 rated)
Amsoil High Performance, 10w40 (full synthetic, CH-4 rated)
Amsoil semi-synthetic 15w40 (CH-4 rated and high quality, but almost as expensive as the full synthetic, and higher viscosity at low temperatures)
Redline, synthetic version (make sure you get the type meant for diesel engines, with the CG-4 or CH-4 rating)
In warm weather, a good-quality non-synthetic oil meant for diesel engines with CG-4 or CH-4 ratings may be used. They're not suitable in cold weather due to reduced cold-pumping properties, and it's prudent to shorten the oil change interval because non-synthetic oils may not resist breakdown at high temperatures as well as the synthetic oils (remember that turbocharger). These oils are much easier to find. These include:
Mobil Delvac 1300, 15w40
Shell Rotella T, 15w40
Chevron Delo 400, 15w40
WOOHOO, Friggan right! I am getting me a $13 bottle of oil Monday morning! I'll switch back to probably a 5w40 for next winter.
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#597
by
bbob203
on 31 Mar, 2013 07:44
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Straighten the rod? Or is it just the Selector Lever that is bent on the rod? I gave it a go while still in the car, but until I get new bushings if I go that route.. it will wait lol.
I may upgrade to the 02A before too long if everything plays out, so bye bye rod shifter.
if you do... use an 02j shift tower, tt short shifter and I hear a 99 beetle shifter boxs bolts nicely into a mk1.
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#598
by
snakemaster
on 31 Mar, 2013 18:22
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looks like your camshaft seal is leaking , what i do is take the camshaft cap off take the seal out and run a craft nife round the back outer part of the seal , so when you refit the seal it sits 1.5 mm further in to the head and no more leak , if you look at the camshaft it has a were mark on it .53mm where the seal runs
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#599
by
8v-of-fury
on 31 Mar, 2013 19:41
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Can I fill and grind down that groove?
