1984 Jetta , TDI WE MUST! (1.9 AHU M-TDI)

[8v-of-fury]

SO with it timed somewhere between 1.30 and 1.35mm I have more white smoke than I have ever seen before out of one of these things. Only when starting for the first time of the day, or sitting for 8-10 hours at work. Plumes and plumes of white smoke. Any throttle and it misses like a mofo and produces WAY MORE SMOKE. What the hell? timed ridiculously retarded at 1.35mm?

So I loosened the pump off and started it up, I then advanced it quite a bit. Probably was around half of the adjustment in the bracket at 1.35mm, now it is near 3/4 or more. Sounds a bit better, the engine was already operating temperature so I don't know how it will react cold yet.

I also installed my dawes valve with it set to somewhere around 15psi (trying to get it to pop with my air compressor was more than difficult without the right size tip.. lol The turbo screams a lot more, and there may even be some more power. However I am having no black smoke whatsoever.. What does that mean boys and girls?! We need more fuel! Injectors are on order as I type. Veg Injection .216's Which are actually like a .238? Awesome!

I also have a T3 here on the shelf that will either get a rebuild.. or just be bolted on. I am looking at FMIC kits, and also looking to get an 11mm or more likely a 12mm Veg Injection pump head for my M-TDI v2.1 build With this I could then theoretically run butt tons of boost, and fuel from like 2300-3800 (probably 4000 max for the 12mm head).

[golftd412000]

i send you an mp...

your 11m is good for 245ch and 500/525nm with other big nozzle and good pulverisation

in a m-tdi pump the most important is a good dynamic timing pump not fuel.
you can win +25hp with a good dynamic timing with no more fuel.

[8v-of-fury]

Ahh yes, sorry I never replied! I have a 10mm bosch head right now. I have the veg injection nozzles coming.. and I am sorry but I cannot understand most of your PM at all lol!

Dynamic timing. How do we make it top notch?

[golftd412000]

i replied of you'r pm.

[8v-of-fury]

TDI is down for the count... again.

On my trek home today after a party last night I made it just coming in to my town on the highway when the car started bucking whilst I was decelerating in 5th gear. I thought maybe it was starting to take off and runaway as I was having some oiling issues as of late you may have read about. So I kept it in gear and got ready for the ride.. it never came though. It was not a runaway but just a bucking like one would experience while running out of fuel almost. I shut it down and coasted down the huge hill i was on in to town! Awesome luck that was lol. But then it would not restart once I had stopped and checked everything over. I have a clear line before and after my filter with an electric pump in line, so I can see that I have fuel moving in to the pump.

I am thinking of going back to the car with a jug of diesel and taking the stop solenoid out to completely rule out the fuel system and a bad stop solenoid. There is nothing else I can think of then a fuel related issue. If that doesn't fix it I guess I'll be popping the pump off and bringing it home to tear down yet again..

[libbydiesel]

I'd also make sure it hasn't jumped time.

[8v-of-fury]

Pump time or belt time? Good idea, might as well check that before I rip in to it. Any other things you can think of that would cause what happened?

[ORCoaster]

Does sound more like a timing, belt problem than fuel issue.  Had that happen on my recent head rebuild.  Must not have had the tensioner down tight and when the valves touched the piston on startup I think it jumped a notch.  When I shut it down and turned it by hand I started picking up on a click just before TDC on #1 cyl.  Knew something was amiss as it wasn't like that when I checked it prior to hitting the started.  Found two valves were out of spec by about 10mm, open to much.  New shims of the proper width fixed it. 

[8v-of-fury]

Well, I found what was wrong. It was fueling related and it was not pumping any fuel at all.. because of this; T'was a custom piece.. now I'm kinda screwed.



Also check out the scoring on my cam plate, the rollers are perfectly fine all the way around however. There is also a significant chunk out of the outer most edge of each of the four cam lobes. There was no metal pieces to be had inside of the pump upon dissemblance, so I do not know if the lobes were like that before or not.. I am pretty sure the whole surface was not scarred though.. I mean I am still going to run it lol but w.e. 

[theman53]

That cam plate is exactly how mine looked when Giles sent it back. I would see if you can get it cryo treated. I know a lady that does, but she is in Ohio. Good luck on getting it going again.

[ORCoaster]

yepper, you screwed now buddy.

[8v-of-fury]

So I found out what was causing the scarring on my cam plate, and I got the lever welded back together today The cam plate was rubbing ever so lightly on the governor assembly! It would seem I shimmed the governor about 1/32" too much. So the scarring is from metal shavings.. lol whoops.




So I took 1/32" of shim off of the governor, and also removed 1 shim from the advance piston while I was in there to try and get some quicker dynamic advance. J.F (410) and I speculated that the fracture was due to the fact I was running a fully shimmed governor assembly and I had the max throttle screw backed out to literally full internal throttle movement. Thus over stressing the internal throttle lever causing it to break. I am now running a completely stock 1.6 governor spring assembly.. with a slightly stretched out idle spring (furthest right) for a bit more idle control.



I am now running a completely stock 1.6 governor spring assembly.. I now have absolutely no power at all . I get an ok off idle power, i dont have a tach but anything over 1500-ish feels non existent.. Pump setting never changed a bit as I have them all indexed for quick removal and installation. It is completely gutless.

[8v-of-fury]

So I finally made myself a pressure gauge and threaded out bolt to test the pressures inside of my pumps




However it is a wee bit low, WAY LOW on pressure inside of the pump. This video shows my pump idling on pure 2 stroke motor oil and no electric pusher pump at 10-12psi. I had 17-19psi on diesel with my electric pusher pump. Tapped the regulator WAY in and had absolutely no pressure change at all. I am not running the front AAZ solenoid so I do not know where the pressure is bleeding off to? or if it is just simply really worn in the vane pump?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wzm_VIJxUA

[8v-of-fury]

Remember my cam plate was missing chunks on all four cam lobes?? Yeah well those metal shavings were circulated throughout the pump and probably are the reason my CandyCoated pump is now dead

So now on to Version 3.0!!! Can you guess what it is??




That's right.. A mechanical Land Rover Discovery 300TDI alllrriigghhtt When I get it I will be tearing it down, cleaning it, painting it  . and resealing it. I might go with a metallic purple, haha. Or that speckled stone, yeah I like that.

Plans are as follows;

I am going to have to have my pump bracket snout hole enlarged, as the LR Disco pump is like that of the later AAZ and ALH pumps (weird that the AHU was not the same.. being in the middle and all). While I am at it I was thinking of either having the pumps mount holes on the face of the pump slotted like the IDI stuff, or slotting the holes in the pump bracket. I do not want to use the mk4 style pulley with twisting it to change timing, and I may be able not too. The LR pumps driveshaft/mainshaft has a slot for the key, so I should be able to use my original AHU key and 20mm AHU pulley. I'll use my AHU rear pump bracket, and swap the delivery valves to AHU as well. Bolt in swap .

[R.O.R-2.0]

So I finally made myself a pressure gauge and threaded out bolt to test the pressures inside of my pumps




However it is a wee bit low, WAY LOW on pressure inside of the pump. This video shows my pump idling on pure 2 stroke motor oil and no electric pusher pump at 10-12psi. I had 17-19psi on diesel with my electric pusher pump. Tapped the regulator WAY in and had absolutely no pressure change at all. I am not running the front AAZ solenoid so I do not know where the pressure is bleeding off to? or if it is just simply really worn in the vane pump?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wzm_VIJxUA

jer, that gauge wont return to zero.. its no good, and certainly not accurate..