1984 Jetta , TDI WE MUST! (1.9 AHU M-TDI)

[8v-of-fury]

Ohh.. The front end is completely dissected.. LoL. Doesn't even have control arm mount on it! .. I guess place a dolley cart under the front frame horns??

[maxfax]

A case of beer and some strong friends???  Some variety of dolly is the safest way to go..  A good rooling floor jack will do it, but can slip outta there..  Even if you have to go out and buy one or two they have a billion and one uses.. Real handy for rolling an entire driveline under the car to lift it in..  Mine typically have engines plopped on them for rolling around the garage.. 

I scored a set of crazy heavy ones used at a dairy for rolling crates of milk around..

I also bought 2 of these http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-polypropylene-movers-dolly-93614.html

They work quite nice too...

[burn_your_money]

I built my own with 2x4s and castors from princess auto. I think I have 6 of them. Best tools in my garage...

[8v-of-fury]

I have one that I currently tote my TDI around the garage on.. I was thinking of plopping two tires on top of the dolly, and the frame horns on those.. Other than the small lip at the garage-driveway area.. I don't see it being too much work LoL.

What Could Possibly Go Wrong?

[maxfax]

What Could Possibly Go Wrong?

Post up some pics when you find out... 

[8v-of-fury]

well i propped the front end up on the dolley cart resting on the control arm mounts and frame rails, and pushed it myself up my drive way and in to the garage in place of this beauty;



Which is now sitting under a car cover, getting snowed on. Yes it is snowing in Ontario.. its TOTAL B.S.

Got the rear suspension out and disassembled.. I dunno how this car rode so good.. 4 coils broken off both coil springs, and both shocks just right done in. Yet it rode great, and didn't bottom out with 4 people and the trunk jammed packed full of coolers of ice and several 24's of beer.. Incredible. Got some new shocks and springs, reusing the mounts and spring perches to save on some money. Ground them down and re painted them with rust inhibiting primer and tremclad black paint. Shocks are Monroe Sensa-tracs Mono-tube (Lifetime Warranty), and they will have RACELAND sport/drop springs complimenting them. 20-25mm drop with theses springs, and rates a little stiffer than stock.

Front suspension has been out for a while, but tonight I got the strut housings of the knuckles, and the knuckles off the control arms. I just got a compressor and a 80 pc. air tool kit with a die grinder and assorted grinding tools.. so i will be attempting to clearance my hubs myself to fit the 100mm outer cv's . However lacking a vice and a spring compressor.. I will be taking the strut housings and new springs to a shop to have the old springs/struts removed and new ones put in with an ATF back-fill. Will also be getting new front bearings pressed in.

I've got new BJ's, control arms, bushings, inner and outer tie-rods and boots to go in up front. As well as new upper strut mounts.

There is also a ***-ton of fabrication ahead of me here, I will document as best I can.. but getting it done before I roadtrip this bish in June.. I may not have TIME!

[8v-of-fury]

Anyone have any luck pounding out the bearings yourself? And using a hammer and appropriately sized socket to hit the new ones in? Trying to save some cash here, as I am currently fighting a BS ticket I got.

[maxfax]

Those suckers are usually in there TIGHT!  You *might* drive them out with a hammer, but the risk of f..ubarring a bearing on the reinstall is pretty high.. 

Although it is kinda hard to hold the knuckles down (especially w/o a vise) it can be done with a ball joint press if you have a connection for one of those.. Down here most of the "big box" auto parts stores will loan or rent such tools free or dirty cheap.. They'll also usually have spring compressors available too..

[8v-of-fury]

Anybody know the shearing force (breaking weight) needed per metric bolt strength to shear it?

Like what will a metric 5 bolt shear at..

[theman53]

5.5 metric ... don't breathe on it
8.8 is a little better but 10.9 is the only real bolt to use unless a weaker one is called for

[8v-of-fury]

will 10.9 say 10.9 on the head?

[burn_your_money]

will 10.9 say 10.9 on the head?

Usually yes

[8v-of-fury]

Hello Boys and Girls (do we have girl users?)!

Plans have changed, BUT a TDi powered mk1 is still the name of the game.

The original plan was to swap EVERYTHING over and run the TDI, CTN 02A trans, cable shifters, cluster, and hydro clutch in the Gold 81 in my sig.. but plans have changed! I was gonna get rid of the Black 84 I have.. but it was my first car and i've had it for 4.5 years.. I do not want to get rid of it.. you know??

ALSO THE SWAPPING OF 02A TRANS IS A WHOLE !@$% TON OF WORK. So I have decided (with great research) that I will bolt this TDI to my stock FN 5spd. I've got two others sitting around if she goes BOOM, so all is well. Yeah I know you think why not do it all now instead of now and later when it goes pop.. Why? This is a project car, not a do it up and live with for years to come.. it will be ever changing If i wanted a car to just drive and check the oil, I'd buy a ford explorer.
Using my already there transmission means I do not need to fab transmission mounts, or the cable selector, or hydraulic clutch.

I will be maintaining the electronic aspect of the TDI, and running the drive by wire, cluster in the dash and sensors on the motor. I think this will be a ok combo, as mr.dave ran an 020 behind his ALH for at least 5 years without issue. Obviously it needs to be driven with a lot less abuse than the 02A can take but that is ok as I am easy on my vehicles anyhow. I want the already rolling power, not the burn the tires off power.. eh?

I already have the mk1 passenger side mount on the TDI motor.. so the next step would be putting the 210mm PP and FW I have on with a fresh disc.

[8v-of-fury]

here is a question. The PP and FW that I will use is in ok shape but is disc too suffered from an oil leak and failure. It too had lots of meat left

Is it safe to re-use the PP thrust plate and spring ring clip on a different motor? I'm all about the budget builds. I will be getting a new Nickel Plated hub 210mm clutch disk, push rod and to bearing. Can the new pus hrod be used with the old thrust plate? Or does it have a certain wear pattern? New Thrust plate too?

[8v-of-fury]

Ok ladies I's be needing your input. So basically I'm pretty much the most Frugal person you have or will ever meet. To the point of buying something, using it, and returning it.. or even returning something else in its packaging.. yep done it countless times.

So on the frugal note.. I don't want to do a trans swap, instead wish to use an 020 transmission. Possibly a much lower km unit then the one I have. I figure it should also be the tallest geared one I can find. I do believe the tallest usable would be a 3.67fd with a .71 5th. If I can find a usable ACN, I have a .71 5th i can swap in. I have read some have been able to run an ACN in the mk1's and some trans don't have the studs for our mounts.. any insight here fella's?

Using the 020 will make a whole ton of things a lot easier. No cable shifter (which was the easiest part actually to make work.. ), No hydro clutch, No 100mm axles (even though i have already clearanced the spindles to accept them), and most importantly! No purchasing of (ridiculous priced) or fabricating motor mounts. Fabrication is not my forte, I don't have any experience with a welder, and it sucks.

I would still like to keep the electronics however. This part is my forte . I am on the fence of how much to keep.. I don't really want to do the cluster, only because it looks like shat in the mk1 dash eh. What happens if I just don't plug the cluster in to the fuse-box? what will happen? I will use my stock ignition wiring to power up the fuse-box, and the stock wire that tells the starter to turn, so basically i just have to mount the mk3 fuse-box and make sure the pump and ECU get their power. Then hook up the drive by wire throttle and I'm set. Now I want to run mechanical gauges as I like them the best, but I don't think I can cut the ECU off from its readings or it will go BONKERS right? So for the oil and the temp how will I run it? Make a T fitting for the sensor on the side of the head? and then insert my coolant probe in one of the coolant tubes?

Other than that I can't see this swap giving me any more hassle than that.. I will run a straight pipe exhaust me thinks, to minimize ANY extra force the tiny k03 has to work against. As well as short IC piping, Can you say HOOD SCOOP!? A-woooga.

OH RIGHT, clutches. I will need to make the clutch a 210mm and not the 228mm that is on the AHU right now. I was wondering what I should use? I have a 210 FW, so I figure a 210mm clutch kit + FW bolts + push rod will give me all I need eh!? Already did the axle flange seals, and the push rod bearing/bushing. As well as the main shaft bushing. Great success.  With faith my tired 700,000+km 81 FN will survive!

$142
$19
x6 $12