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#45
by
DieselMonkey
on 07 Feb, 2006 19:36
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Andy,
What is your starting like on an IDI with such low compression. Excellent acheivment making the GM parts work. If you can get it to start reliably with that compression ratio thats great.
Let us know. Any chance of a few images of the compound setup ? Exhaust manifold / header, pipework. thanks,
Matt
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#46
by
malone
on 07 Feb, 2006 19:44
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Isn't there already a link to the image gallery from the first post of this thread? Unless you were asking for more specific pictures..
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#47
by
DieselMonkey
on 07 Feb, 2006 20:38
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Mark,
The images on the link dont work. Also, why does Giles not reply to e-mails regarding pump re-builds >?
Thanks, Matt
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#48
by
andy2
on 07 Feb, 2006 21:36
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The link should work now,I'm not too good with this kind of stuff :oops:.
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#49
by
andy2
on 09 Mar, 2006 21:02
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I lost the casting part# for the 6.2 head that I got the precups from but will get it soon.The particular precups I used have the "small" square marking as per application,They are somewhat rare but should't be too hard to come by.I would'nt hesitate to use other types of 6.2/6.5td precups either,basically just what you can find.
My dad and I designed the manifold and he made it.
Editing: due to me learing how to upload pics fineally :oops:
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#50
by
Dr. Diesel
on 10 Mar, 2006 20:44
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#51
by
andy2
on 22 Mar, 2006 19:44
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Some more pics from the latest develpoments,Once again my dads handy work.
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#52
by
wyldman
on 22 Mar, 2006 20:10
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OMFG that is a sweet main girdle.I'm assuming you made it ?
I'll be the first to order one if you care to make another.
What are you using for rods ?
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#53
by
andy2
on 22 Mar, 2006 21:02
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Yes my dad made it,He's got quite intrested in the project needless to say.
The rods are from the PD100 engine,Thats the only version of PD we have in north Amreica.Both the PD130,150 rods are different again,so the 100 rods was my best OEM option.
The Girdle is actually sunk down into the block 3/4 of its thickness,we machined the caps down and made notches on the sides or them that lined up with the plate for aditional strength,its also a nice tight fit all the way around the in the block.The gridle was torqued down and then we got the block line bored.The main bearings showed signs of uneven wear and the center journal was out of line too much.I also had uneven piston potrusion before due to the crank sitting on a .004 thou slant(from cyl1-4).
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#54
by
DVST8R
on 22 Mar, 2006 21:26
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So HOT!!! Andy you never cease to amaze, and to bring it to a whole new level! :twisted:
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#55
by
89VWdieselGolf
on 23 Mar, 2006 12:58
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Looking good Andy! Can't wait to drop by and check out the progress
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#56
by
okron1k
on 23 Mar, 2006 13:11
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where can i go to get my compression checked?? and approx. how much would it cost?
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#57
by
wyldman
on 23 Mar, 2006 13:32
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Any good diesel or VW (make sure they know diesels !) shop should be able to do it.The hardest part is getting the injectors out.Princess auto sells a diesel compression tester,and the injector removal sockets if you want to attempt it yourself.The tools would probably cost less than paying a shop to do it.
Normally I charge $120 for a compression test,plus parts.Make sure you "(or they) replace the injector seals when replacing the injectors,they are one time use only.You may have to pay additional if the injectors are siezed or difficult to remove.
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#58
by
okron1k
on 23 Mar, 2006 13:41
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i may look into getting my own tools. because i am getting my own shop at the new house. will the compression tools be good for any diesel engine? for example a detroit diesel?
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#59
by
wyldman
on 23 Mar, 2006 14:23
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It comes with 4 adapters,that do VW,Cummins,and a few others.
I'd suggest buying the tools,you could always sell them and recoup the cost.