Golf II GTD with 1.9 AAZ engine --- EVO II

[baldone]

Thank you!
The rough dimensions are enought for me!
Best regards Sanya

[Alleslowbuged]

Hi,

i have just drove it the last few weeks, to cold for working in my small unheated garage. All together i have ride a bit less than 2 t km.

we have made some new G-Tech runs last weeks and after two year of wating for breaking the 15s amrk i have done a 14,909 s ( a bit downhill, so in fact it is still something around 15,0 s ) The best run was done with start in second gear, but this is nothing what my clutch likes, but otherwise i did not get any traction in first and second gear.
I would assume that i could get a bit faster at higher ambient temps, because the grip level at ~ - 10°C with sommer tires is a not high as it could.

here are the stats:

200 m (1/8 Meile) 9,8 s @ 126,9 km/h
400 m (1/4 Meile) 14,9 s @ 152,9 km/h


0 - 100 km/h 7,60 s ( 6,90 s mit 30cm Rollout)
0 - 120 km/h 9,60 s ( 8,90 s mit 30cm Rollout)
0 - 140 km/h 13,10 s (12,40 s mit 30cm Rollout)
0 - 160 km/h 17,05 s (16,35 s mit 30cm Rollout)



40 - 80 km/h 2,39 s
60 - 100 km/h 3,36 s
80 - 120 km/h 4,16 s
100 - 140 km/h 5,53 s


We have also measured a BMW E46 330D with a 5-speed-auto, which is f..cking fast for its 1700 kg. In fact it has the same time on the 1/4 mile, as my VW with (nearly) equal power and 700kg less weight. The G-Tech shows that the acceleration does not rise below 0,3g during shifting from second in third gear, while during my manuell shifting is rise always down to 0,05g.

At least my T3/T25 adapter cracks again today, i have allready bough another one, this time from the UK which is again stronger than the one before. It seems that the new adapter is from the same manufacturer than my T3/T3 adapter, whichs also cames from the UK. Unfortunately the did not offer this type a few weeks ago.

As an intermediate conclusion i have to say that i am really confident with the update overall and that i love the new engine characteristic, which it spectacular upper top end.
  
Here are two pics, were the crack can be seen:





Best Regards


P.S. If i am not to lazy i will post some G-Tech pics later (Golf und E46)

[Alleslowbuged]

Hi,

just as short update, i have dismount the turbo and the cracked adapter yesterday and have to notice that the adapter was fully broken in two parts:



The other side is also 70% cracked.




It seems as the crack has started from edge due to the mashining of the bold backface. However i have allready
a new one, whichs seems a bit stronger but will cause some space trouble again. Pherhaps i have an issue with
my exhaust system due to the new flexpipe. I think i will install an additionally support just behind the flex pipe.

Best Regards
Alleslowbuged   

[vanbcguy]

I can totally see a lot of that cracking happening if the downpipe doesn't have enough support against the block.  The adapter would take the most stress for sure.

[theman53]

If you brace it before the flex, as in downpipe to the block, since that should never move, you shouldn't have anymore issues.

[Alleslowbuged]

Hi,

so no big news here, but i could figure out a contact at schwitzer in the states who was so kind to look for a compressor map for my turbo and finaly find one from 1992 (not 100% the right one, because the compressor cover is slighly different) and pass it to me. I plot my matchbot results in and here is it:



I think it is quite a good match, even if it is very close to the surge line, but in my mind it has very good efficiency rates (>68%) for the high pressure ratio. At least it was 90% luck, as i bought it from ebay without any specific technical data, just because it was from switzer (inconel turbine wheels) and at a resonable price.

Best Regards  

[Alleslowbuged]

Hi,

again just a short update, i have start to reassemble the engine today.
The main issue is to find a solution for a downpipe support, at least i decide to use a flat bar and use one of the supporting screws of the gearbox at fixing point on the engine side. At the pipe side i will use an additionally U-clamp.

Here is the a picture fo the engine side:


here is an overview picture (the additionally U-clamp is missing and i have to increase the bend angle of the flat bar)


Here is a picture with the scrappy stud bolts i have bought, they have only 8mm thread on the engine side, which is not engough for a M8 stud bolt in alu. Also the area without thread is extrem long, therefore the stud bolts are to long for my manifold.

Best Regards
Alleslowbuged 

[RabbitJockey]

that compressor map is pretty good, has it ever surged for you?  looks like at your boost pressure it stays above 68% until about .17 kg/s which is about 22 lbs/min so it should be good for around 220bhp

[Alleslowbuged]

Hi,

as i am not a surge expert, in fact i did not know.
But besides the first drives without active wastegate and approximate something around 45 psi boost, i think not that i have seen surge once.
With the active wastegate i have never notice a strange noise or performace shortfall, without the active wastegate there was a performance
shortfall somewhere above the 3x psi range (~4000 rpm) for arround 500 rpm before performance came back. I would assume that this was
surge, but with the special engine bearing i could not hear anything at that time.

Best Regards       

[Alleslowbuged]

Hi,

i put everything together last friday and start the engine shortly, just for motivation.
Main issue was to complete the downpipe support, but finaly it should be as felxible as necessary (thermal movement) and as rigid as possible:





I have also bought some "high pressure" clamps for the boost pipes:



Here is a picture from the front where the PD intake could be seen, i still waiting for a "race pipe" to be able to find a boost pipe between the intercooler and the intake.



As next i modified the heat protection plate an bolt it on the intake:







Here is a pic with the new breather filter:


And last but not least i have installed an additionally fan for the intercooler, i hope to prevent that the water
cooler fan heat up the intercooler, when the car stands (e.g. 1/4 mile start)
 

I hope to get the race pipe next week and be back on the streets than.

First thing than will be to further increase the internal pump pressure to 3,0 bar @ 1000 rpm wihtout the
small electrical feed pump (increases pump internal pressure @ 1000 rpm ~0,5 bar), actual i have 2,5 bar
@ 1000 rpm with the feed pump runing. I hope to came close to 9-10 bar @ 6000 rpm with the change, which
should bring a bit more top end power above 4000 rpm.

I would like to dyno it again after that and see if the pressure increase and pd intake will bring any power
increase too. That time i would make three runs with different boost pressure (1,0 bar; 1,5 bar and 2,0 bar), will
be also interesting to see power output with 1,0 bar.

Best Regards
Alleslowbuged

[Alleslowbuged]

Hi,

today i have start to install a front splitter:

before:


between:


after:








The splitter must be landed with two M6 bars, but unfortunatelly they send my the short verison, with is not useable
at the mk II.

I was afraid, that it would look more awkward, but anyhow it will definitely massiv decrease lifting at the front end and
pherhaps even produce downforce.

Best Regards
Alleslowbuged

[Alleslowbuged]

Hi,

i think i will swap to a NA, because the sound so nice:



today i have again change the front bumber setup, because i could not leave my garage:



Now i have installed the splitter with the normal front spoiler instead with the 16V version. I like that it is a bit less flashy, but i also think that the downforce efect will be less than with the 16V front spoiler:













Best Regard
Alleslowbuged

[RabbitJockey]

I like the splitter on the normal spoiler better it's more subtle perhaps painting the supports black would help too,  but that is assuming you like subtle also

[Alleslowbuged]

Hi,

Hallo,

its running again::





Unfortunately it was not as easy as i hoped:



i have ask the seller if the race pipe will fit 100% and he say yes. Anyhow i bit drill a bit cutting and a set of washer and it fits (for the moment):




I have also weld a m8x1 nut on the pipe, to conect my pressure hose:



the pipe is also to small, it should be d Ø57 mm / D Ø60 mm and it is d Ø50 mm / D Ø53mm:




Here a picture puzzle for the experts::

what is wrong here (measure internal pump pressure)?


and whats differend here?


I have adjusted the internal pumpe pressure from 2,0 bar @ 1000 rpm to 3,0 bar @ 1000 rpm, so now i get ~8,0 bar
at redline. Here are two videos how the pressure reacts versus speed:





@Trev0rbr
Yes, from the optical point i also like it more with the normal spoiler and also yes a bit black paint would help. 
Gruß Alleslowbuged

[Alleslowbuged]

Hi,

there are some bad news from here, as the head gasket can not handle 30 psi boost with my unplained cylinder head, so i think i have to lift the head again and plain the cylinder head, as my soldering is still absolute fine. The head gasket ist 100 % tight with only 1,0 bar boost and also with 1,5 bar bosst if i not rev it above 4500 rpm.

But there are also some good news, as i swaped the turbo again from the schwitzer S2A to a S100, which matches even a little bit better than the S2A. I make the hole conversion at one day (~ 8 hours), during waiting for the postal guy who pick up a packet from me.


The turbine casing from the S100 is a bit smaller than the one from the S2A and the compressor casing is anti-surge.
Here are few comparison pictures:

(left is the S100)






The main reason for the swap is that i shedule to use the S2A in my BMW 524 TD, but i also want to just try how the S100 would match since a while.

Here are a picture witht he compressor maps of both plotted in the same diagram
(red is S100; black is S2A)


I also plotted the boost lines in for both, which i have calculated with the BorgWarner matchbot. the points are related to 2000rpm, 2500 rpm, 3000 rpm, 3660 rpm, 4446 rpm und 5000 rpm from left to right. The blue line is AAZ with S2A, the brown is AAZ with S100 (a bit assumed) and the green line is BMW M21 with the S2A



I also rechecked the internal pressure of the IP again and find out, that it has again 2,0 bar at idle and not the 3,0 bar i adjusted in march. I wonder if this will be due to the viscosity change because of the higher temps, but i do not now. I did not change it, because i could see a clearly relationship between headgasket stress and high internal pump pressure (early injection). I also rechecked the ARP stud bolt tension and find them all in line with what i torque them down during installation.

Because i could not find somebody who make my rims legal i have to swap to different set:






Wenn i bought them, they have slicks on it, unfortunatelly only two of them was leakproof, so i put two to my old rims for further drag strip races.




What come out very good is the fuel consumption i get between 35 and 39 mpg with the last fillings.

Last but not least here is a new short video from yesterday, with only 1,0 bar because the boost-controller did not work that day and only rev it to ~4500 rpm as the headgasket is not bulletproof:
(the driver most likes the part uphill from 3:25 min bis 4:30)



Best Regards
Alleslowbuged