mk2 1.9 td swap almost complete. Questions...

[brandon5]

Ok so my swap is nearly complete. Just a few more minor details... plus the entire mk3 dash swap

So here are some pictures.





rats nest wiring




old dash


new dash


dual rad fan cut to fit


t3


trunk storage


headliner


I still dont know what to do with this stuff. If i already have a wastegate on the turbo what do i do with the wiring?






Ill try and post pics as i get closer with my progress.

Any help i can get will be awsome. Seeing as i wanna drive this fricken
thing.

[8v-of-fury]

Congrats, looks pretty good

Is there a way you can host pictures right to your post? instead of links? makes viewing a little easier.

[brandon5]

Ya sorry about that Image shack wasnt to good to me. Ill check it out tomorrow. If i get new pics too. But i need to know about the wastegate wiring first.

[brandon5]

pictures put up right. I need help with this people!!!!

[jtanguay]

a lot of the wiring isn't really necessary. looks like you have a very newer style 1.9 though! where did you get it? i wonder if the 505 00 oil sticker on the valve cover is stock?

im not sure why you took the whole dash off? but while you're in there i highly recommend throwing in a new heater core (and i'm not kidding...) because if it hasn't already been replaced, it will need to be eventually. i also recommend rebuilding the heater box with new foam to help with the cold winters.

it also looks to me like your wastegate is vacuum controlled. that IS a good thing! good by you can control your boost to whatever you wish. there are PWM circuits available on ebay that you can use to control your boost from inside the cab. PWM circuits with variable frequency are like fast switches. the faster they go, the more times the switch is activated meaning the wastegate is opened more. the lower the frequency or even off, the more the wastegate is closed or fully closed. this gives you some really finite boost control. Giles bought one, and his setup is pretty slick 

if you're tight on cash and really want this thing going, then just leave those wires alone and get a boost gauge. keep the boost levels to around 15 psi max until you get a feel of the engine, and the amount of smoke coming out the tailpipe. the boost pressure alone won't damage the engine, but too much fuel and boost will.

as for the solenoids on the pump, some can be given 12v all the time to negate their functions (theres one that retards the timing to reduce NOx etc...) it's really that easy. i'm sure others with more knowledge of how to 'trick' these newer style pumps will chime in though. it almost looks as if your pump has that plunger position sensor too...

[brandon5]

I took the whole dash out because im replacing it with a mk3 dash ill check the heater core and stuff to. I filled it up with all the fluids it needed and tried to start it but nothing happend The only thing i can think of is a relay missing for the computer. Its labeled number 30 on the chart. I also have a few other questions about some tubes coming off the turbo but ill put them up tomorrow.

thanks alot

[burn_your_money]

That wastegate stuff can just be deleted. It's an emissions thing that disables your turbo.

There is no computer for that engine. Just power to the stop solenoid away you go. Glowplugs help of course...

[Henchman]

i wonder if the 505 00 oil sticker on the valve cover is stock?

I have the same sticker on my AAZ in my B3 Passat out of Germany.  Mine does not have the lda and the EGR setup is different.

Do you have a mk3 speedo cluster to go with the dash?

Ian

[brandon5]

Im kinda of a complete noob but whats a stop solenoid? I just remember seeing in the bently something about an ecm relay. and it doesn't have one in the fuse box. So im guessing i can just leave the waste gate the wiring? or just pull it from the fuse box and get rid of it?

And i have everything for the mk3 dash, cluster, heater box, everything. I have like 3 boxes full.

[burn_your_money]

The stop solenoid is on the top of the steel part of the pump, just above the injection lines. There is another similar one on the side of the pump. The top one needs power, the other one you can decide if it needs power or not. It will run just fine both ways.

[brandon5]

it seams i have power to everything i need and its a no go. Wont turn over, just clicks. any ideas?

[Rabbit on Roids]

bad ground from the batt.

[burn_your_money]

Check in the FAQ for a voltage drop test. That will tell you exactly where your problem is.

[brandon5]

Will do. But the grounds should be fine. Im getting power cause my lights and my cluster works. Is there anyway someone can make a quick list of things that i need to get the initial turn over? That would help me out alot.

Thanks alot guys

Edit: will the drop test do anything if my engine wont even crank?

[brandon5]

Bumbity bump