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#30
by
8v-of-fury
on 29 Jan, 2010 19:43
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#31
by
maxfax
on 30 Jan, 2010 01:56
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Hmm... May need some JB-weld on that too.. I was working on a Chevy tonight (my Chevy no less, drunkeness was required), I think I have enough empties for that new downpipe! I like Jeremy's idea of just running it straight down..
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#32
by
burn_your_money
on 30 Jan, 2010 05:36
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Performance is up and smoke is down. I have about 1000kms planned this weekend so hopefully mileage goes up as well. I have been averaging 5.8 over the last 4 tanks. I thought about knocking the rest of the downpipe off so there was even less restriction but I didn't want to make it too loud. I might try that when I get back from my trip.
I also installed a rubber valve cover gasket so hopefully it doesn't still eat oil. I run synthetic and it's getting rather expensive.
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#33
by
burn_your_money
on 31 Jan, 2010 07:01
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Good news bad news.
Good news I filled up and got 5.5l/100. It may have been because I did 300kms all at once so the engine was already at operating temperature.
Bad news I filled up and got bad fuel (I think). Within 20 kms of filling up my car just died on the highway. I had music going and my tach is broken so I couldn't exactly tell what happened but I had zero power. By the time I had shut the music off and pushed the clutch in the engine reved back up. I continued on and about 3 minutes later it did it again. I already had the music off so I pushed the clutch in and tried to rev the engine. No response. My car is kind of loud so I couldn't tell if it was idling or off. I "pumped" the pedal a few times and then it suddenly reved back up. Electrical or fuel supply issue? All my lights stayed on and I don't recall anything else strange happening.
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#34
by
8v-of-fury
on 31 Jan, 2010 07:40
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well, we know it isn't a Voltage Drop issue
Hmm, what about giving the IP just a straight connection to the battery +, and going for a drive? but if your music stayed on.. its doubtful its an electrical thing right? unless you have your radio hard wired to the battery like i do? so a failing ignition wouldn't shut it off?
If it were watery-fuel would your mk2 not have a water sensor or w/e to alert you of this?
Where did you get your "Diesoline" from?
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#35
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 31 Jan, 2010 08:59
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filter might be full of water and it might not let any diesel by? i would expect YOU of all people to be checking the fuel filter first tho.
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#36
by
burn_your_money
on 01 Feb, 2010 06:18
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I did a VDT and sure enough....
It ended up being electrical. The connection on the stop solenoid was loose enough that it would lose contact. The stop solenoid doesn't have enough "pull" to pull the plunger back out of the head at high RPMs so it wasn't restarting until I pushed the clutch in and let the engine RPMs fall.
I did check my fuel filter first and there was a concerning amount of ice in it. The drain was actually clogged. I'm going to have to bring the car into the shop and let it thaw out so I can drain the water out.
I filled up at a Shell station. I will pull the sending unit from the tank and see if I can see anything in there.
My water separator was deleted so there were no warning lights. I don't really think they would be working at this stage in the game anyways though.
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#37
by
burn_your_money
on 11 Feb, 2010 09:22
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I got 5.7l/100kms on my last tank. However I failed to reconnect the LDA after installing the rubber VC gasket. The thing still smokes at WOT and assumed full boost
I think I might try the advance shim mod next to see what that does to the l/100kms. I would adjust the internal pressure but I'm afraid of leaks.
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#38
by
8v-of-fury
on 17 Feb, 2010 21:32
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Tyler, have you had anymore sick days to mess around with your car??
Have you tried to Advance shim mod yet? what exactly does this accomplish? more power up top? or more economy?
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#39
by
burn_your_money
on 18 Feb, 2010 05:45
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I haven't worked in over a week. Sadly all I can do is watch TV though
I have to type with only my left hand.
The advance shim mod should shift the advance curve. I think there is a good discussion on it in the FAQ
My last tank was 5.65l/100 over 600 kms, mostly all continuous highway.
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#40
by
burn_your_money
on 10 Mar, 2010 18:24
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well I got 5.4 on my last tank with my normal commute. I had detuned the pump and also unhooked the LDA. The car is slow as anything. I also took the time to install a boost gauge. I discovered that the way I drive I rarely hit 2 psi. When I merge I'll get up to 4. I did test the turbo out and it will make a solid 8psi if I keep my foot in it. I always knew turbos were worthless, I guess this confirms it
I can't wait to get my 1.9NA back
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#41
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 10 Mar, 2010 19:39
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if you blocked the stupid overboost valve, it would have much better power. and boost controllers really make the turbo spool alot quicker. even in my worn out audi, i just turned up the boost to about 18 psi, and added the boost controller and it made the audi alot quicker.
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#42
by
rabbitman
on 11 Mar, 2010 00:37
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I discovered that the way I drive I rarely hit 2 psi. When I merge I'll get up to 4. I did test the turbo out and it will make a solid 8psi if I keep my foot in it. I always knew turbos were worthless, I guess this confirms it
I can't wait to get my 1.9NA back
BAHAHAHAHA, that's funny
. Ain't you a little too young to actually LIKE slowness?
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#43
by
burn_your_money
on 11 Mar, 2010 04:55
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I thought the overboost valve didn't kick in until around 12-15psi?
My 1.9NA is faster then the 1.6TD, especially this one. The weird thing is that I accelerate faster then most of the people around me. When I get on the highway though I just hang out in the slow lane.
It could also be my turbo. If I get up to 4 psi and shift I can hear the compressor rubbing on the housing.
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#44
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 11 Mar, 2010 07:08
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yea, it should make more boost then that. a turbo engine with a bad turbo, i can most definitely see it being slower than a 1.9 n/a. with a bad turbo, it has to work hard to suck air in, and work even harder to push it back out. instead of the turbo helping to cram the air in there. when the turbo cant make much boost, it can still make a ton of drive pressure. but this is nothing new to you..