A few pump questions.

[8v-of-fury]

So in this picture we have the cold start lever, and what I believe is the fast idle of later pumps? (just a curiosity question)



In this picture.. I need to remove that bracket and fifth bolt to change the head seal? I have read about putting a longer bolt in the timing hole to hold everything in place while you back off the 4 bolts holding the pump head on.. but I had a thought.. does the cover want to separate with the pump? won't it be stuck on there like white on rice? How easy will changing that O-ring be? I can remove pump from engine if need be, as i have done it quite a few times now.. timing belts and pump timing are no challenge anymore lol. 




Thanks a lot for answering guys. really appreciate it.

[burn_your_money]

Yes that is your fast idle.

won't it be stuck on there like white on rice? How easy will changing that O-ring be?

Looking at that pump I would say that yeah, white on rice. Changing the o-ring will be fairly easy. Putting it back together and making sure nothing expensive goes *snap* is the hard part. Exercise extreme caution. Keeping the little rust flakes out will also be a lot of fun.

[ToddA1]

Where did you read about the longer bolt trick?  I received a long bolt with a dial gauge kit, and have no clue what it was for.  I posted a thread, and didn't really get any answers.

I need to swap a mount soon, so the pump will have to come off.  If I need to lock the pump, it'd be nice to know.

-Todd

[8v-of-fury]

Todd I can't remember who exactly I read the longer bolt trick from.. but what I remember is that you use the longer bolt to go in the timing hole to hold the plunger and every little piece behind it in place. For every backing out turn of the four bolts holding the pump head on, you turn that bolt in.. keeping it tight.. but not he-man tight or you will bend stuff lol

The bolt you got could very well be the longer bolt that is needed for such procedure..

come to think of it.. I think it was Libbybapa who i read this from

[ToddA1]

OK, since I'm just removing the pump to swap the mount, I won't need to bother with the bolt... correct?

Thanks

-Todd

[8v-of-fury]

haha, oh sorry you got confused there.. no this bolt is used for changing the pump head o-ring without disassembling the pump, to hold the parts where they should be on the inside.

5 bolts including the pulley bolt removes the pump from the bracket. Not a big deal at all.

Remove upper and lower timing belt cover. Remove the valve cover, rotate the engine to TDC, lock the cam, and lock the pump. Remove the injector hard lines, and fuel lines to the pump at this time. Then (now this part is impartial to some) what i like to do to remove the timing belt is loosen the tensioner, and remove the stud from the head that the tensioner is on. (I find in my mk1 this is actually a must to get the tensioner on and off..) It will help by not fighting with anything making the timing belt move the crank during this procedure. remove timing belt. three 13mm bolts on the bracket and one 13mm bolt on the rear of the pump on the bottom, along with the 19mm (??) bolt on the pulley removes the pump from the engine.

There should be a few hex-head bolts holding the bracket to the block.. easy peasy

[ToddA1]

Gotcha.... thanks for the write up.

I only noticed the mount was bad by removing the belt covers when I was doing the timing belt, about a month back.  One thing I do to get the tensioner off is to jack the engine up a bit.  In my case it was a "must do", because the block was already hanging lower than it should have been.

Now that I thought about it, what's the point in locking the pump if the pulley will come off and then the pump being removed from the bracket?  What's to keep the shaft from moving? 

I was initially under the thought that the bolt would lock the pump at TDC.

-Todd

[8v-of-fury]

I do believe that with the pulley on the pump will only lock at TDC.. i mean there is other holes.. but the mid sized one that fits your pump lock tool will always be TDC on the pump.. i could be mistaken..

but the pump pulley is like 2 times that of the crank.. so it theoretically should have 2 injectors fired when the pulley is 180 then the other 2 fire in the other 180 degrees.

the shaft will not rotate it self around past the cam plate.. with the pulley on using your hand u have to give it some good force to get it to turn.

[ToddA1]

Perfect.... thanks again!

-Todd