I broke an 11mm ARP stud - Troubleshooting - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• I broke an 11mm ARP stud by overdrivegear on 09 Nov, 2009 20:48
• View the damage.  I was torquing with the correct lube and going down to 80 ft. lbs. and it snapped.  Believe it.
  
  
  
  
• #1 by rabbitman on 09 Nov, 2009 21:01
•   I think I just lost faith in ARP
  
  Will they give you another one?
• #2 by maxfax on 09 Nov, 2009 21:08
• WOW.   Was it new, or has it been used before??  IF it was new I should hope they make it right.. You sure it was threaded into the block the whole way??  Does kinda look a tbit funky at the break though...
• #3 by cyrus #1 on 09 Nov, 2009 21:17
• Quote from: rabbitman on 09 Nov, 2009 21:01

  I think I just lost faith in ARP

  
  Unfortunately defects happen to the best of them.  Hopefully this is an isolated incident and they will stand by their product.
• #4 by rabbitman on 09 Nov, 2009 21:21
• If I ever build an engine up I'd still get ARP studs though
• #5 by overdrivegear on 09 Nov, 2009 21:40
• Quote from: cyrus #1 on 09 Nov, 2009 21:17

  Quote from: rabbitman on 09 Nov, 2009 21:01

  I think I just lost faith in ARP

  
  Unfortunately defects happen to the best of them.  Hopefully this is an isolated incident and they will stand by their product.
  

  
  Well, these studs were bought second hand but were in fine shape.  I used the lube, instructions, and got advice on this forum before I torqued them down also.  Screwed in the studs hand tight and did everything to a T.  I'm not sure if I have any recourse through ARP but they have awesome products.  I bought another new set and they worked fine.  The point is that even the mighty ARP studs can break.  Since then, I checked the calibration on my torque wrench and went as far as to buy another (digital) one to avoid this again.
• #6 by maxfax on 09 Nov, 2009 23:05
• Just as Cyrus said, even the best of them get a dud from time to time..   Hard to tell what may have been done to them previously too..        A broken stud is still FAR better than a broken block...
• #7 by fatmobile on 10 Nov, 2009 00:01
• Especially need them  on the 11mm block.
   I bet ARP would appreciate you sending it back to them so they can see how it failed.
• #8 by Doug on 10 Nov, 2009 02:44
• I'd like to know how you got the broken piece out of the block without destroying the piece or the block? Aren't those stud holes blind and a bit deep for your average drill bit or did you just get lucky being able to back it out with a screw driver?
• #9 by macka on 10 Nov, 2009 05:18
• Quote from: Doug on 10 Nov, 2009 02:44

  I'd like to know how you got the broken piece out of the block without destroying the piece or the block? Aren't those stud holes blind and a bit deep for your average drill bit or did you just get lucky being able to back it out with a screw driver?
  

  
  yea. How did you do that??
  
  On another note, it looks like the bar stock had some inclusions. It happens from time to time. One of my work suppliers had some casting issues on a ring mantel for a boiler. Can you say "catastrophic"?
• #10 by overdrivegear on 10 Nov, 2009 07:34
• Quote from: Doug on 10 Nov, 2009 02:44

  I'd like to know how you got the broken piece out of the block without destroying the piece or the block? Aren't those stud holes blind and a bit deep for your average drill bit or did you just get lucky being able to back it out with a screw driver?
  

  
  Drilled out the center of the broken piece stuck in the block and used a cone shaped reverse bite extractor and twisted it out.  Not that big of a deal.
• #11 by macka on 10 Nov, 2009 08:50
• Quote from: overdrivegear on 10 Nov, 2009 07:34

  Quote from: Doug on 10 Nov, 2009 02:44

  I'd like to know how you got the broken piece out of the block without destroying the piece or the block? Aren't those stud holes blind and a bit deep for your average drill bit or did you just get lucky being able to back it out with a screw driver?
  

  
  Drilled out the center of the broken piece stuck in the block and used a cone shaped reverse bite extractor and twisted it out.  Not that big of a deal.
  

  
  Ahh OK I always thought the block thread went deep on those engines.
• #12 by Smokey Eddy on 17 Nov, 2009 14:01
• oh my goodness...
  I JUST torqued mine to 110nm (80ft.lbs) in 4 stages last night.
  This image terrifies me...
  there was some "cracking" sounds but ... that was at like 60nm and they sounded identical to the sounds the stretch bolts make when they move in the threads.