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Anybody got rid of their brake proportioning valve
by
theman53
on 13 Oct, 2009 19:39
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I am pretty much out of cash and do'nt mind rear wheel lock up, so has anyone done it? I just wanted to hear and see if anyone had trouble after it was gone. This is an MKII btw.
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#1
by
rabbitman
on 13 Oct, 2009 23:06
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I think it would be rather exciting having the rear wheels lockup everytime you push the brakes
......especially on a corner.
One way of seeing how it would act is to pull the ebrake so it's dragging and then push the foot brake, it kinda fun
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#2
by
theman53
on 14 Oct, 2009 05:21
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I have done that. I don't think they would lock up or lock up first since the rear are drums. I just wanted to know if anyone has done it and what the results were. I am going to do it unless someone says it kills the drivability.
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#3
by
Op-Ivy
on 14 Oct, 2009 10:23
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I think the problem with not having it has to do with the amount of weight that isn't back there. It makes them a lot easier to lock up, thus the reason for having it. I wouldn't know how much of a difference it would make though.
Personally, I would leave it or replace it. It's there for a reason and AFAIK most new cars, if not all, have it as well.
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#4
by
smutts
on 14 Oct, 2009 13:51
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I just wanted to know if anyone has done it
What? Spin totally out of control at 60mph on a wet tree lined road? Yup.
Done that.
what the results were.
Once stationary, and unmaimed, I said "thankyou" and then I adjusted the proportioning valve so that it worked as it was intended.
By all means experiment, but you might not enjoy the results for long.
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#5
by
smutts
on 14 Oct, 2009 13:56
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Mind you, with the way the rear wheel cylinders often leak on VW's, the point may be moot.
Rumour has it that there are two different bore sizes for the rear brakes, depending on whether the car had a proportioning valve or not. If so, my money would be on the bigger bore with the cars with the proportioning valve. Anybody in the know on this one?
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#6
by
theman53
on 14 Oct, 2009 14:52
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Mine leaked and I am out of cash. I just want to run the brake line all the way back. I like the RWD and hard brakes in the back of most cars, but didn't know how much it affected these ones.
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#7
by
maxfax
on 14 Oct, 2009 19:14
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Slightly different beast here, but my MK1 does not have the load sensing prop valve.. Just the standard one mounted below the master cylinder.. It tends to lock the rear wheels rather quickley if I have the 100lbs of crap outta the back of it.. Especially when wet..
Maybe I'm thinking of something else, but aren;t those valves rebuildable with some o-rings??? Might be able to get away with a boneyard one for a while too..
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#8
by
rabbitman
on 14 Oct, 2009 22:26
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Maybe just swap in a non load sensing prop valve since they're (I think) more common, that'll at least keep you on the road........
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#9
by
burn_your_money
on 16 Oct, 2009 14:42
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I wouldn't completely bypass the prop valve. You need to put in some sort of prop valve. I think early Golfs had the non load-sensing prop valve.
You increase your breaking distance by a fairly substantial amount, so be careful.
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#10
by
truckinwagen
on 16 Oct, 2009 15:05
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the other thing that valve is a residual pressure valve to make the self adjusting rear drums work.
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#11
by
smutts
on 17 Oct, 2009 08:18
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Just to add to the confusion, my Blue 1991 Golf GTD has the prop valve as standard, my Red 1990 Golf GTD doesn't have a prop valve as standard. Both should be identical cars? Or not?
Both are factory standard with SB engine.
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#12
by
theman53
on 19 Oct, 2009 07:10
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Yeah I guess I could have specified that it is the load sensing prop valve. I hadn't thought about putting in a non load sensing one. Great idea. I bet any 60/40 from a disc drum setup would work and will be cheap from the yard.
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#13
by
burn_your_money
on 21 Oct, 2009 04:54
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I would try and get one that matches your drum size, either 180 or 200mm and with the same engine if possible.
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#14
by
SolarSteve
on 22 Oct, 2009 20:39
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Mine started leaking about 5 months ago. The B-nuts were completely rotted off and Napa want $170 for a new one. I just cut the lines, removed the prop valve and hooked the lines back up. I took the car into our cul-de-sac that has all sorts of gravel on top of the pavement and was going about 30 MPH and slammed on the brakes. The front brakes started to skid alittle first and the backs barely skidded at all. All in all the car stopped very quickly.
I also have a 2 tank WVO system with the 15 galln tank in the trunk, so that may contribute a little to the rears not locking up.