-
#15
by
truckinwagen
on 18 Sep, 2009 15:01
-
yes, I am referring to the IDI crank noses.
the 1.9TDI crank nose, I am not sure about, I have never seen one in person.
I have a question about it though, if you put the pulley on the shaft without the bolt and let go will the pulley fall to the floor?
if it does then the system still relies heavily on the tension of the bolt and the friction it creates against the crank nose face.
I like the woodruff key because it relies on the mechanical connection of the key and keyways, even if the bolt loosens the pulley will stay in position(of course having it tight is still essential for a host of reasons)
-
#16
by
Turbinepowered
on 19 Sep, 2009 02:30
-
As I understand it you actually have to press the TDI sprockets on. Maybe not with tons of force, but they don't just sit perched on the end of the crank nose like the 1.6 ones do. I saw their mating described as an "interference fit" so I gather that if you let one sit there where it belongs sans bolt it would probably keep right on sitting there.
-
#17
by
RabbitJockey
on 19 Sep, 2009 07:56
-
there was a guy on here with a twin charged aaz or something had some crazy like 250hp. its rare people show cars like that here tho, i know the last 250hp aaz who had a dyno video and was looking for more power, he came on here and got flamed
theres no way he was making "around 300 horsepower" from a 1.9AAZ of course we flamed him, he was full of s***.
and just remember, the crank noses and sprockets on these engines wouldnt be too happy driving a S/C. they take quite a bit of power to turn, and the crank nose/sprocket just wasnt made to drive something this big.
there was already proof of 250. i agree with the crank nose thing, they're already under alot of stress frm turning the pump and the rest of the engine
-
#18
by
NintendoKD
on 19 Sep, 2009 08:42
-
is the stress too much for running a lighter sprocket? can lighter sprockets be used on the crank, cam and pumps? The combustion, heat and just plain ol torque would make this a bad idea, right?
-
#19
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 19 Sep, 2009 19:46
-
the early 1.5 crank shafts (like the one i have) have a separate woodruff key like the injection pump, but its on a straight shaft, not tapered. i think the ancient 1.5 cranks are the way to go for strength. its a way better design.
-
#20
by
NintendoKD
on 19 Sep, 2009 21:30
-
squeak, squeak, SQUEAK! that is the kind of wheel that get's the grease, or..... booted from the forum. I will not be ignored, are lighter cranks good to use? and what kind of wheel, where, can I get one for my 80' 1.5 if it is a good idea.
Thanks,
Kevin
-
#21
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 21 Sep, 2009 07:59
-
dont lighten the crank. put a gas 210 mm flywheel on it. dude, you can just PM me whenever you need to know somethin about your 1.5. i know lots about these ancient engines, im one of the only ones brave enough to build one for power. there are others, but we are a rare bunch.
-
#22
by
macka
on 21 Sep, 2009 10:21
-
The updated TDI crank/sprocket seems to me to be a much more robust design than the earlier 1.5 or 11mm head bolt 1.6 motors withe the separate key.
I know that one of the paper rollers I worked on, had a keyway, and it was a lot more robust then the same machine with a restriction fit pulley. they run at 800 ft lb of torque.
-
#23
by
truckinwagen
on 21 Sep, 2009 10:23
-
I agree, I have seen keyed sprockets hold ridiculous loads without failing.
that and being so common repair is easy to get done and relatively cheap if they do start to wobble.