Need help, my rabbit is dying

[NintendoKD]

I have a straight pipe exhaust, and weitec coilover suspension to put on it to lower it and provide a bit of tuned suspension performance.  I got all of this for free today in a 78 rabbit that was given to me with no engine "just a parts car"  I have some really good friends, anyway if you guys need anything for your MK1's let me know and I'll see what I can do.  NO, to answer your question, the dash is cracked beyond all belief and you cannot have the round style headlights as they were taken from the car before I got it.  I have also taken all of the poly bushings from the suspension and will integrate them into the diesel.

thanks,

Kevin

[NintendoKD]

Rebuild, Rebuild here I come full rebuild in the works, pictures to ensue soon.  I am ordering the rebuild kit, and some plastiguage, I already have everything else.  Anybody have any idea where I can get a hone brush wires with little sand balls on the ends and a drill spring extension so that I can polish out the exhaust ports?  I may have to start another thread for this.  I am not even sure the proper name for he tools.  I will order the head studs from summitracing.  Before I do is there anything else that I should remember? anything special for the rebuild at all I get that feeling that I missed something

Also, can I get chromemoly rings for this engine? or some dimensions for the stock rings so I can maybe find some moly ones?

Thanks,

Kevin

[Smokey Eddy]

I accidentally ordered .25 over bearings for a machined crank. What a nightmare that was... just saying i have a set that will likely never get used.

[NintendoKD]

good to know, pull the bottom end first, then order the parts.

Thanks,

Kevin

[Rabbit on Roids]

you dont know if that thing even needs to be rebuilt or not. if it runs as good as you say it does i would just run it.

[Rabbit TD]

Rebuild, Rebuild here I come full rebuild in the works, pictures to ensue soon.  I am ordering the rebuild kit, and some plastiguage, I already have everything else.  Anybody have any idea where I can get a hone brush wires with little sand balls on the ends and a drill spring extension so that I can polish out the exhaust ports?  I may have to start another thread for this.  I am not even sure the proper name for he tools.  I will order the head studs from summitracing.  Before I do is there anything else that I should remember? anything special for the rebuild at all I get that feeling that I missed something

Also, can I get chromemoly rings for this engine? or some dimensions for the stock rings so I can maybe find some moly ones?

Thanks,

Kevin

The moly type rings are probably the only type you actualy will be able to get.  I tried to get the cast style for an engine a while back but couldn't find any.  The biggest problem with the moly type is that they take so much time to break in especialy on an older engine where the cylinders arent perfectly round any more.  The hone doesn't true them up, it just gives them the right finish or texture but it will probably be fine.  The other alternative is to get it bored with new pistons but that's way more expensive.  If you get one of the brush style cyl. hones you will be fine, just make sure if there is a wear ridge at the top that you remove it with a ridge reamer.  Me, I personaly like the cast type rings even on a new bore but nobody seems to have them anymore and I'd hate to have to buy another set of rings when the new pistons come with a set of moly's anyhow.  I'm glad you are getting the ARP studs, it will save a lot of problems on down the road.  There's nothing more agravating than having an engine pressurize the cooling sytem or leak externaly after a very careful rebuild.  With the studs you can retorque it a lot easier and more acurately than those stretch bolts or the shorter 11's which are prone to cracking the block.  Have fun

[NintendoKD]

Hand cranked the crank, felt something inside sort of grind.  So I must argue the point, I am pretty sure that that qualifies a rebuild.  multiple system failure due to a cascading failure of the following "and as posted before" bad oil, water pumps, and a bad or getting there head gasket, as well as ailing rings.  yes, I have checked these and they are bad.  I am not going to do a line bore, and the rings that come in the kit are cast, however, I was under the impression that moly is better, lighter, and stronger.  *snickers at the six-million dollar man reference*  I ended getting the kit from parts place great people there, haven't paid "waiting for my measurements" but got a ticket no. so when I call back they have a reference on the parts I want the head gasket is interchangeable with one of the three varieties, but that is about it.  This kit comes with everything, and I do mean everything cept the crank, cam, block, and head.  Wicked kit for $450.00 shipped.  If there is a better kit out there for a better price LET THIS GUY KNOW!  I am working on procuring a flange for my gt25 turbo, and am searching for a rebuild kit as well.

This thread is working out pretty well for me but maybe I should repost and move the content?

Thanks,

Kevin

[Rabbit TD]

Hand cranked the crank, felt something inside sort of grind.  So I must argue the point, I am pretty sure that that qualifies a rebuild.  multiple system failure due to a cascading failure of the following "and as posted before" bad oil, water pumps, and a bad or getting there head gasket, as well as ailing rings.  yes, I have checked these and they are bad.  I am not going to do a line bore, and the rings that come in the kit are cast, however, I was under the impression that moly is better, lighter, and stronger.  *snickers at the six-million dollar man reference*  I ended getting the kit from parts place great people there, haven't paid "waiting for my measurements" but got a ticket no. so when I call back they have a reference on the parts I want the head gasket is interchangeable with one of the three varieties, but that is about it.  This kit comes with everything, and I do mean everything cept the crank, cam, block, and head.  Wicked kit for $450.00 shipped.  If there is a better kit out there for a better price LET THIS GUY KNOW!  I am working on procuring a flange for my gt25 turbo, and am searching for a rebuild kit as well.

This thread is working out pretty well for me but maybe I should repost and move the content?

Thanks,

Kevin

That's where I got both my Master rebuild kits from.  I have bought a lot of things from them and I like them alot.  If you got cast rings don't be afraid of them, they will seat a lot faster.  Most of these older cars didn't have them in the beginning and look how many miles they went.  I doubt if you'll ever put another 200,000 on your car after it's done anyhow so I wouldn't worry about how long they'll last but they will definately break in a lot faster.  Be careful cleaning the grooves in the piston so you don't gouge them and increase the clearance somehow

[NintendoKD]

the kit comes with new pistons so why would I clean the grooves?

[Rabbit TD]

the kit comes with new pistons so why would I clean the grooves?

  That's right, the $450 kit has the pistons also, that's the one I got for the N/A.  I don't know how far along on this or how you are pushed for time or money but for the same price you can get the oversize pistons and boring these runs around $100 around here.  Take the price of the cyl. hone off that yet and it sounds even better

[NintendoKD]

everything is more exspensive in california, now here's the worst part, just because it costs more doesn't mean it is higher quality   As much as I would love to do a bore and hone I just don't have the dough so that's a bust I am doing this right the first time for long lasting effects.  I now have my Bentley, just got it today YAY!

If California broke off from the country, tomorrow, I would not wave goodbye, I would have a celebration!  For the folks who love it in Cali KEEP IT! YOU CAN HAVE THIS PLACE!  No offense but I hate life here, hate the prices, hate the taxes, hate the DMV, hate the corrupt liberalist hippie government, and I especially hate the lazy citizens, who unlike members of the military, can actually do something about the government, but don't.  People should not fear the government, it should be the other way around.  If people in Virginia "where I am from", tried the crap that the Govt. here in Cali gets away with on a regular basis, at all, the COMMONWEALTH citizens would have a revoloution and "*politically correct terminology used here*the central govt. would be RELOCATED"  to Hell.  Now off of the political pony and back on topic.  I simply cannot wait to do this rebuild.


Thanks guys,

Kevin

[NintendoKD]

Ok, I have a revised list of components for the rebuild.  I have a perfectly in tune 1.5 head that is sparkling clean, I will send the injectors out, get new lines "need some help on this one, don't want to buy pre measured ones" I ned the fuel lines from the big filter to the injection pump and new return lines, there was a leak, and I would rather change all of them than take a chance and miss one.  I also need a new fuel filter big, and one in-line filter small, and I need to rebuild the I/P or send it off cheap rebuild to have a daily driver "how much does a bosch rebuilder cost and where is a reputable one located?"  I will need an upper gasket set, oil and coolant, and a fast glow set, with plugs and relay.  I think that that is all, but the wife needs the van during the day, so that will put my franken build on hold, at least until I can get the 1.5 running "in other words, she gave me an ultimatum "  I checked the lifters and cold, they are at the top end of the spec range "new shims in order?"  the valves have zero play, and the head is in spectacular shape "only 180,000 miles, I think"  The pistons are good, just need to go over the deck with a zippy wheel, and get some new motor mounts.  Anything else I'm missing?

thanks guys,

Kevin

[NintendoKD]

Dang it, forgot a few things, like the injector bushings, the hoses that I need, how much should I order and which types do I need?  Where can I get the best prices for each item, does anyone know from experience?  I happen to know that the going rate for 1.5 injectors, rebuilt on autohaus is the cheapest I have seen @38.12 each, with a 11buck core, that's pretty cheap, also looking for a shim kit, rather than buy individually cheaper? or no?  I am so scatterbrained right now with the build and deployment coming up a little help with the shopping list would be just spectacular.  I was looking at vw partsplaceinc for their engine kits, but they contain more than I need, or do they?  what should I do/check etc.  I am looking at about 400, after core charges at autohaus and that is without the new style vac pump and injection pump rebuild, I'm thinking of doing the I/P rebuild myself, I want to spend as little as possible so I have more play money for the main event.   There has just got to be a way.  I don't want to sound like a grubby miser, but I really need to make this a reliable engine for the long haul, and need to do it for fairly cheap.  I have a bunch of stuff to sell, so I'll start there to put some plus in the ol paypal maybe this will give some of you the opportunity to pawn off some of your stuff at a lower price than the competition.  I would love to use the aaz injectors that another member gave to me but the height is different isn't it?  I would need new pump to injector pipes, and that's just more money   I do plan on getting ARP fasteners regardless, becase this is a 1.5 11mm block.

[NintendoKD]

I am going to use the 2.5 staight exhaust for this, and thinking of using the weitecs I have from the 78 and parting it out due to the move to the spyder.  I'll also swap the front round style lights from the 78, or maybe just the other way around, and make a lightweight 1.5 N/A miserdriver

[Rabbit on Roids]

Ok, I have a revised list of components for the rebuild.  I have a perfectly in tune 1.5 head that is sparkling clean, I will send the injectors out, get new lines "need some help on this one, don't want to buy pre measured ones" I ned the fuel lines from the big filter to the injection pump and new return lines, there was a leak, and I would rather change all of them than take a chance and miss one.  I also need a new fuel filter big, and one in-line filter small, and I need to rebuild the I/P or send it off cheap rebuild to have a daily driver "how much does a bosch rebuilder cost and where is a reputable one located?"  I will need an upper gasket set, oil and coolant, and a fast glow set, with plugs and relay.  I think that that is all, but the wife needs the van during the day, so that will put my franken build on hold, at least until I can get the 1.5 running "in other words, she gave me an ultimatum "  I checked the lifters and cold, they are at the top end of the spec range "new shims in order?"  the valves have zero play, and the head is in spectacular shape "only 180,000 miles, I think"  The pistons are good, just need to go over the deck with a zippy wheel, and get some new motor mounts.  Anything else I'm missing?

thanks guys,

Kevin

you will re evaluate that small fuel filter once you actually get the car running. you are going to have to clean or replace the small inline filter about 15 times before the big filter actually even starts getting dirty.

ASK ME HOW I KNOW!!

eventually i took the small inline filter off and it worked fine until i pulled the engine out.