1.9TD Coupe Project

[zagarus]

Good criticism bluemule, and actually yes those are two things I would still like to address. As for the brake line to the right caliper there will be a heat shield that covers that, still have to find one, as for the oil drain line I guess I will need to get one refabbed up or see if I can space it away a bit more.  How much room do you think would be acceptable?

[BlueMule]

Hello Z. 3 inches minimum, since it is a turbo though, the farther the better. You can effectively increase the distance with insulation, an inexpensive turbo cover is about $40 and some 2" wrap is about $20. The ties for the wrap are cheap and easier to work with than hose clamps.

A suggestion would be to move the brake line down a bit, and then wrap it in insulation, that along with a turbo cover should be enough. As far as the drain is concerned, looking at the photo again it seems you are going to have to get one made up. I would suggest retaining the flexible part if possible, you can wrap the pipe with insulation also.

http://www.thermotec.com/full-product-line.html

BlueMule

[zagarus]

Mini update:

Got the oil cooler fabbed up with russel fittings and hoses (ain't cheap stuff).  Still have to make a bracket to mount it securely but the way it is right now it won't be going anywhere.  Also did some AWIC thinking and came to the conclusion that the AC condenser may not be sure a great idea. Here's why:

The bosch pump that I have is the same one used on Cobras and Lightnings, it is designed for Air Water systems.



Specs:



According to that at 0.3 Bar (roughly 5.3 psi)  it can push 1200 litres/hour.  In a straight pipe with a diameter of 17.2mm  (diameter of pump inlet and outlet)  water is flowing at 4.7ft/sec.
Used this for calculation --->  http://www.1728.com/flowrate.htm

Ok so that's nice but of course in a real world situation there will be bends and different medias (ie intercooler and radiator) that it has to pass through.  Naturally my idea of using the AC condenser was good from an OEM direct bolt in perspective, but for optimum cooling it is not.  To my understanding by having the water forced through a smaller diameter pipe ( i'll guess 8mm for the condenser)  the pump would have to work extra hard in order to flow the same 1200 l/h in the 8mm as opposed to the 17.2mm of the pump.  By using the same calculator and achieving the same flow velocity of 4.7ft/s the pump is actually only moving ~260l/h.  I'd say that is one hell of a drop in performance.   

So now im looking on www.frozenboost.com again and noticed a few other radiator options they have.   Once I get measurements of my car and figure out how much room I have to play with these would be my options:

Option 1 :

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=217&products_id=1062&osCsid=4f6258eda803ee581262be38b5ee6131

Option 2 :

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=217&products_id=1002&osCsid=4f6258eda803ee581262be38b5ee6131

Option 3 :

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=217&products_id=1063&osCsid=4f6258eda803ee581262be38b5ee6131

This would allow me to maintain a larger diameter sized hose between cooler, rad, pump, and resevoir.  That and it would allow me to spend more money on russell fittings and hose (YAY...)


Feedback and ideas welcome on this.  Did what I say make sense?

[zagarus]

oh ya and the oil cooler location.

[Runt]

Your flow through the AC condensor will not be the same velocity (ie. 4.7m/s).  Depending on the pump curves and ratings, it will probably be nearer to the same flow rating at a higher velocity.  If possible, I would suggest either asking the manufacturer about your intended use, or perform a test.  Easy enough to pump a 20l pail of water through and time it.  If you maintain a flow rate of more than about 2/3 of factory rating, the pump should be happy, and I'd think that 800l/h should meet your needs.  If not, have you considered splitting the condensor into 2 or more parallel sections?  Just de-solder one U in the middle, and push water into both those tubes and out the original inlet and outlet.  To match up fairly well to your 17mm pump outlet, you'd have to run it as 4 parallel, that is de-solder 3 U's to create new inlets and outlets.  This would actually give you a little more area inside the pipes than the 17mm, but you'd lose a little to friction, so it'd balance out about the same as one 17mm pipe.
good luck.

[zagarus]

Yes true, an 8mm diameter pipe flowing 1200 l/h is going  21.757ft/sec.  I just assumed that by having the water transition from a larger diameter pipe to a smaller diameter that the pump would have to work extra hard in order to maintain the same flow.  But like you said really the only good way to find out is to actually test it with a bucket of water and see how much comes out.

Another question, how would one go about de-soldering the  u bends?  I'm assuming a regular soldering iron wouldn't work would it lol.

[macka]

you can use a propane torch

[zagarus]

I ditched the AC condenser idea, ordered an aluminum rad from frozenboost.com, 24x12x1.  Will cover just as much surface area as the condenser did only it'll be much better for fittings and all around flow (1/2NPT as opposed to the 7.5mm AC pipe diameter). 

I also got my distributor box made up.  Battery is located in the trunk and I decided to mount my power box where the ECU on a gasser car usually goes...The rain tray.  It will be properly sealed up and mounted away from any grounding/shorting possibilities.

Box is from a mk4 vw.





Plenty of expansion for power options

[zagarus]

Blood flows through the veins once again!!!  

Still have to get intercooler piping welded up, drain the tank of the marked diesel and fill with fresh diesel.  Other then that she's close to breathing.

[cyrus #1]

You sure are getting close.  I can't wait to see it running.  It's been a long time coming. 

[rallydiesel]

I love the angle of that camera shot.

[blackbird82]

hows this project goin? looks unreal. makes me wanna sell my trans am and put all my money in my jetta!

[zagarus]

WEll I attempted to fire it up today, was 50% successful.  I had everything primed (oil, fuel through pump)  so the next step was to crank the engine over to get the injector lines primed.  Got that all done so I became really excited because any time now it should fire up.  It coughed a few times but never fired up and after warming up the starter significantly I called it a day.   During a little cool down session I decided to check the glowplug system as I've had a problem with them before on my old diesel.   As far as I could tell the system wasn't getting any power whatsoever.  Not even off the red/white lead terminal off the back of the fuseblock.  I didn't do much troubleshooting as I was running out of time but my relay is #60  (Slow or fast?).    Anyone have any ideas what I could check?  Will I have to take out the injectors and see if they glow? ( I shoulda done that beforehand, grrrrrr)

[kaneb]

Awesome build! 

When i did mine i found my Gp's weren't working and it ended up i just had a bad ground at the relay.

[zagarus]

I think I may have figured it out.  Looks like I might have a few wires mixed up on the fuseblock.  According to the Bentley power from the battery should come in on the Y pins on the back of the block (they are located at the top right corner when looking at the block from the front).  From there I should use a little jumper wire from pin 30 to 30B  which should then give the glowplug relay full POWAH!!   At the moment I have main power coming in on pin 30 only with the glowplug wire on pin Z1.   BLLLAAARRRRGH!!! Stupid mistake.  



 Update tomorrow hopefully with video of it running!

And a couple recent update pictures:

Engine bay







Also got the lower firewall heatshield on, half the exhaust mounted (stops just in front of the rear beam)  new oil cooler that DOESN'T leak mounted, and I'm still waiting on the AWIC fittings and lines.  

Thanks for looking!