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#45
by
zagarus
on 22 Mar, 2010 16:59
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alright so I was just told that the copper nuts are no good, the top of the collar needs to thread or else it will just rattle off. So exhaust studs are M8 x 35. The studs that hold the camshaft plates are M8 x 56. Me thinks I found a candidate for extended exhaust studs
Will find out tomorrow when I go back to the car and "test"
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#46
by
zagarus
on 24 Mar, 2010 17:26
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This is the extent of the wiring in the engine bay (I love mechanical diesels!). I still have a few things to add such as the relays harness for my headlights, few wires for gauges and that's about it. Notice how i have the turbo and manifolds off again...Ya that's because of the exhaust studs I had to replace because the stock ones are too short now with the manifold spacer.
New shiny radiator
Sent the AC condenser and volvo oil cooler off to get flushed and pressure checked.
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#47
by
zagarus
on 01 Apr, 2010 16:31
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Update:
Finally got the longer studs I needed in order to run the manifold spacer.
The longer studs are the ones used for the camshaft holder plates.
Final result
Final wiring harness loomed up
Interior progress
16V passat fan shroud
cleaned, pressures tested, and fins straightened AC condenser (going to use for AWIC)
And the "package" as it sits now
Over the next two days I will try to get the rear brakes done (discs). Also will start to get the gauge wiring all sorted out as well as the relayed headlights (Got some 12gauge wire for those
)
Thanks for looking.
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#48
by
Smokey Eddy
on 02 Apr, 2010 00:07
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man every time im just STARING at that intake. drooolllzzz
next time im in loopsie im CALLING you - gimme yo digits yo! =D
i go there fairly often, i have a good friend there.
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#49
by
zagarus
on 04 Apr, 2010 22:12
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Here is my relay harness for headlights all done with 12g wire soldered to the pins.
Just waiting for a few more things for my gauges, still need to empty my tank of marked diesel (grrrr, stupid farm people), get the oil cooler system all done (just waiting on a couple fittings), and potentially get the Air side of my intercooler piping done so it will at least be able to boost properly upon initial startup. It is getting so close!
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#50
by
Smokey Eddy
on 05 Apr, 2010 00:55
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i totally second making sure your boost will be working on start up just for smoking purposes and keeping the egt's cold on break in.
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#51
by
zagarus
on 05 Apr, 2010 01:11
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well im just going to fire it up to at least hear it roar to life, but only for like a minute or two. next time it fires up wont be until its done and ready for break in driving.
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#52
by
truckoSaurus08
on 05 Apr, 2010 06:08
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What are these copper nuts ive been seeing lately? Is there an advantage to using them? Where do you get them?
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#53
by
Smokey Eddy
on 05 Apr, 2010 10:00
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well im just going to fire it up to at least hear it roar to life, but only for like a minute or two. next time it fires up wont be until its done and ready for break in driving.
Thats what i did but i regret it. I think i ruined my rings by letting it idle...
first run i think should be normal stop go driving around your block topping up the coolant.
and then just do gentle city driving with it for at least 500km...
i know it's SO hard to restrain but it will pay off. The rings will seat much faster and you can lay your foot into it.
you don't want to have to replace the rings because you let it idle and didn't put any load on the rings on start up.
I had to replace the rings very shortly after.
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#54
by
truckinwagen
on 05 Apr, 2010 10:22
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What are these copper nuts ive been seeing lately? Is there an advantage to using them? Where do you get them?
they are self locking and corrosion resistant, so they dont vibrate loose, and are easy to remove in a few years(as they wont rust in place)
you should be able to get them at any auto parts supplier.
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#55
by
zagarus
on 05 Apr, 2010 12:01
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well im just going to fire it up to at least hear it roar to life, but only for like a minute or two. next time it fires up wont be until its done and ready for break in driving.
Thats what i did but i regret it. I think i ruined my rings by letting it idle...
first run i think should be normal stop go driving around your block topping up the coolant.
and then just do gentle city driving with it for at least 500km...
i know it's SO hard to restrain but it will pay off. The rings will seat much faster and you can lay your foot into it.
you don't want to have to replace the rings because you let it idle and didn't put any load on the rings on start up.
I had to replace the rings very shortly after.
Gah ya I know. And considering it's been 2 years since I last drove my old diesel I think another month or two of waiting is ok. how about 20 sec of idle? Just to know it runs
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#56
by
53 willys
on 05 Apr, 2010 12:26
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start it up make sure you have oil PSI and then rev the *** out of it...my .02
I know it's hard on the 1st start since you usually have some leaks and other bugs...but the less you idle it the better off you'll be IMO.
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#57
by
zagarus
on 05 Apr, 2010 12:31
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I've been reading around on break in procedures and so far I have come across the "drive it hard right away" procedure and I have also found a "drive it gradually harder and harder" procedure. So far I like the idea of the drive it hard right away in order to seal the rings in the very short allotted time where the cylinder walls are still rough. Chances are i'll just drive it like I normally drive a car which is changing gears often and different loads.
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#58
by
truckinwagen
on 05 Apr, 2010 12:33
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you don't want to drive too hard, as the rest of the moving parts are breaking in too.
but you want to stay away from constant engine speed and load, find a nice twisty back road and drive on it for a while(I don't like stop and go in town traffic for break in, because you can get stuck in traffic and be forced to idle)
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#59
by
BlueMule
on 06 Apr, 2010 09:06
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Z, hello. Very nice build, it shows that you do not to spend $10,000 in the engine compartment to have a clean and well performing package. If I may make a couple of observations, please do not construe what I say as harsh criticism, but. From the pictures, and that is all I can see, there are 2 things you might want to look at.
1. The apparent close proximity of the turbo drain tube and the exhaust manifold. It appears to be "too close for comfort". What can occur is Dodgeitis, where the hot manifold could actually burn some of the oil going back into the engine causing a breakdown of the oil, this heat can also cause Gel/Sludge/Crystallized Oil buildup in the tube.
2. The apparent close proximity of what I believe is the brake line to the right caliper and the Turbo, even if you are going to run Dot 5 Silicone fluid, it might be best to move the line or if not, get a turbine housing bag for insulating the turbo and some insulating wrap on the line. Oh and do not run Dot 5 Silicone fluid in an ABS system.
BlueMule
