Fastest Nozzle change and GP check - for 8v-of-fury ;) - page 1 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• Fastest Nozzle change and GP check - for 8v-of-fury ;) by Smokey Eddy on 04 Aug, 2009 22:27
• This is just how i do it this only took me an hour or so. I didn't really watch the time.
  
  Grab your nozzles, heat shields and solvent! (i used lacquer thinner)
  
  
  
  
  
  Take off the T-belt cover so you can loosen the bolts on the pump as to move the pump away from the injectors. This always helps me get the socket on that stubborn one behind the pump. But yours (8v) is NA isn't it so this step is rather pointless.
  
  
  
  I have smashed my hands too many times not to gently tap the nuts loose on the hard lines with a rubber mallet.
  
  
  
  Put them somewhere safe
  
  
  
  When you start to undo the injectors it is VITAL that you always apply the force toward the head. On my old 1.6 head someone had ripped an injector out of the boss and re-welded the threads back onto the head. It is also crucial to be very weary of the return nipples.
  
  My socket complained that this clip was here so i took it off. just a reminder!
  
  
  
  As i undo the injectors i like to hold a shop vac to the threads to ensure no hard carbon chunks get into the pre-cup. It also works really well do suck the heat shield out of the boss! =D
  
  
  
  Clean it up real good!
  
  
  
  This was my leaking injector. Or more-over my excuse to by new nozzles.
  
  
  
  Take this time to check your glow plugs! Always kill as many animals with your bare hands as you can. That's the figure of speech right?
  
  
  
  Get them apart by what ever means possible! a vice works the best but some time you have to compromise. All the bits have to stay with their host injector!!! This is when you lap the flat surfaces with high grit (i like 600) on a piece of glass + oil. I didn't do this here because i had recently lapped them and they were still scratch-less.
  
  
  
  
  
  Do the reverse and there YA GO!
  
  Excuse the lame music. I had the radio going. notice me finding there to be not enough soot existing the exhaust and promptly fixing it? Remember that's dual exhaust too
• #1 by Turbinepowered on 04 Aug, 2009 22:55
• Any reason why you seem to be using a torque wrench as a breaker bar? 
• #2 by Smokey Eddy on 04 Aug, 2009 23:00
• That isn't a breaker bar?
  Weird
  
  breaker bars don't usually click at 70nm though. I anti-sieze everything so i never need a breaker bar for anything except for lugs and the sprockets.
• #3 by 8v-of-fury on 04 Aug, 2009 23:14
• What's wrong with using a torque wrench as a breaker bar anyway? I mean if it can do the 100ft.lb for lugs... why not?
  
  use what you got right? (Nice wrench BTW Edna)
  
  I thank-you for writing this all up for me, even though i don't need it yet i still gotta get a seal for my pump and fix that.. THEN GET IT IN MY CAR! LOL
• #4 by Smokey Eddy on 04 Aug, 2009 23:16
• My torque wench goes to 250 ft.lbs and thats just what its RATED for!
• #5 by 8v-of-fury on 04 Aug, 2009 23:27
• pretty sure its gonna provide all the breaking pressure you'd EVER need! lol
• #6 by Turbinepowered on 04 Aug, 2009 23:50
• Considering how easy it is to knock those suckers out of calibration, I treat them like they're made of glass... At $70 to recalibrate, plus the downtime of shipping if the shop's not local, it's worth using the right tools for the right job.
  
  Besides, a breaker bar's cheap. And much easier to add extra pipe length to if I need to add to my leverage.
• #7 by 8v-of-fury on 04 Aug, 2009 23:51
• my breaker bar is just a piece of steel pipe o put over my socket wrenches.. whats yourS?
• #8 by Turbinepowered on 05 Aug, 2009 00:01
• Quote from: 8v-of-fury on 04 Aug, 2009 23:51

  my breaker bar is just a piece of steel pipe o put over my socket wrenches.. whats yourS?
  

  
  One of these:
  
  Cost me all of $35, plus the $7 3/4"->1/2" drive adapter, at my local Ace. Damn near indestructible, and the sliding nature of the handle means I can apply force to both sides, or reset myself after a half turn without removing the socket.
  
  
  I bought it specifically for injectors. Those two, plus a 1/2" drive 27mm deep impact socket, are my injector removal toolset, and cost me all of $55. I've also used them for axle nuts, head-bolt removal, and the mongo 36mm axle nuts on a Super Beetle with no complaints.
  
  
  [edit] I checked my records for the price of the bar. I was way off, but it's definitely been a very justifiable investment.
• #9 by Smokey Eddy on 05 Aug, 2009 02:42
• I do have a breaker bar. But my "breaker bar" application wasn't really breakerbar application... torque values were required. And like i said, nothing was siezed those injectors were apart >10,000km ago and still had soft grey anti-sieze on em.
  
  but your concern is MUCH appreciated!
  
  for the record, you dont have to have your hands on the wrench for the wrench to act properly. Securely on the ground is a lot steadier than with my hand flailing around on it.
  
  and sometimes, with these cars, when you can save $35 ... that's part of the reason for owning a vw.
• #10 by burn_your_money on 05 Aug, 2009 07:48
• It's my understanding that you aren't suppose to use a torque wrench as a breaker bar for loosening anything because the sudden shock when it breaks loose messes up the calibration. And really an uncalibrated torque wrench is pretty useless.
  
  Bosch would shoot you in the head if they heard you were using 600 grit sandpaper. You should use at least 2000 if you are going to sand them at all.
  
  Your thread clearily illustrates one of the main reasons why I hate turbos. Too much extra crap in the way. Like that stupid LDA you had to deal with
• #11 by Turbinepowered on 05 Aug, 2009 09:03
• Quote from: Smokey Eddy on 05 Aug, 2009 02:42

  I do have a breaker bar. But my "breaker bar" application wasn't really breakerbar application... torque values were required. And like i said, nothing was siezed those injectors were apart >10,000km ago and still had soft grey anti-sieze on em
  

  
  Torque values are only required on the installation end of things, when you're tightening, rather than when removing and disassembling.
  
  Saving thirty five dollars while risking likely three times that much (I know how much my 10-150ft-lb torque wrench cost me, $130 or so) is one of those "penny wise, pound foolish" propositions.
• #12 by Rabbit on Roids on 05 Aug, 2009 10:42
• i cant believe that abs plastic is holding up as boost lines. i tried that on my car once. guess the VNT is just too hot for plastic pipes.
• #13 by smutts on 05 Aug, 2009 16:48
• One of my rebuilt injectors is leaking nicely, guess what I will be up to this weekend.
  The good news is I have five matching rebuilt injectors off fleabay for a song. The bad news? I have no idea what nozzles are fitted, or what car they were for. Should be fun seeing if they melt the prechambers.
• #14 by Smokey Eddy on 05 Aug, 2009 20:25
• Yeah the pipe works well with those clamps. No melting at all. but i don't race my car or anything ... just normal driving.
  I don't see what the big jerking motion you speak of is? my injectors slid out like a knife through butter.
  Does no one else use anti-seize on everything?