Overheating

[turborabbit]

Just got back from Kansas-no worries-and my caddy began overheating, very reliably(sp?) at about 6-8 miles from cold. I pulled the thermostat, same result. Coolant doesn't seem to be circulating. Steam coming out the reservoir. I think it's the pump, but I can't get the top two bolts out. My Bentley is criminaly vague in the coolant section. If I'm on the right track, what tool do I need to buy, bend or otherwise modify to get those bolts out?  Or do I need to pull the IP?? I had an engine on the stand and I was able to remove the bracket and pump w/o touching the IP. Thanks in advance -warren

[burn_your_money]

1/4" swivel extension should do it. You might need to trim down the 13mm socket a bit too

[turborabbit]

Thanks, Tyler, I'll try it. That's a lot of torque for a 1/4 inch-I've twisted a lot of 3/8's, but never a 1/4 or a half. Not sure how I'll restart them, but, honestly, last  night I resigned myself to popping the spider and IP (my timing belt is slightly off center) and re-torqing the head, setting the valves and timing. I'll run compcheks before and after just for curiosity. Thanks, again,-warren

[rabbitman]

The bentley's weird water pump test was to pull the t-stat and use a screw driver to jam the water pump impeller and then you turn on the pulley with your hand. If the pulley spins separate of the impeller then the water pump is junk.

[turborabbit]

Thanks, Rabbitman, guess I didn't read that far. I'll try it in about an hour, got the new pump impeller with me, can't imagine what else it could be. Wonder if I could remove the ribbed idler pulley that covers part of the pump? I think my beer goggles were foggy.

[rabbitman]

Thanks, Rabbitman, guess I didn't read that far. I'll try it in about an hour, got the new pump impeller with me, can't imagine what else it could be. Wonder if I could remove the ribbed idler pulley that covers part of the pump? I think my beer goggles were foggy.

Of course you'd need to pull the t-belt to get the IM pulley off, or you could pull the whole water pump out.

[Quantum TD]

FIRST TEST TO DO!!!!

Pull the return line to the overflow tank. Blow through it. If you can't blow through it, your car will overheat.

If you can't see coolant flowing through the return hose with the cap off and the car running (and no T-stat), then the hose is clogeed.

Replace the hose.

If you CAN see coolant moving in the overflow tank from the return line, and there is no T-stat, then your pump is ***e.

Good Luck!

[Quantum TD]

ALSO,
  I see your user name is turbo-rabbit. If you actually have a turbo in your Caddy, you may have the upper rad hose from a MK2 (no such thing as a stock Turbo Rabbit or Caddy). Those hoses had a restrictor in the hose, just before the overflow tank. It looks like a snake swallowed a mouse and is in the middle of digestion.

Those restrictors are prone to blockage. You can drill them out, and pull out the remains. There are no ill-effects.

Good luck!

[turborabbit]

Hey, Quantum, thanks for the reply. Yes, I do have a turbo, transplanted form an '86 Jetta. The return hose is clear and will bubble when I overfill the resevoir. I inserted a screwdriver into the vanes of my water pump and  the pulley will not turn. I'm starting to think that the pump is still good. Normally, hot water flows from the return hose at the top of the resevoir, but, now, only bubbles regardless of how full or how hot. Can't imagine what other restrictions there might be. Any ideas???

[Doug]

Is your reservoir pressurising excessively? The key observation is that gases (water vapour and combustion) are making bubbles out of the return line at the reservoir.  My guess is that you have a failed head gasket causing the overheating especially at such short distance with a cold block start. How old is the head gasket? If you can't remember then it is likely done. If your return line has flow to the reservoir then the pump is okay.

[Rabbit TD]

Is your reservoir pressurising excessively? The key observation is that gases (water vapour and combustion) are making bubbles out of the return line at the reservoir.  My guess is that you have a failed head gasket causing the overheating especially at such short distance with a cold block start. How old is the head gasket? If you can't remember then it is likely done. If your return line has flow to the reservoir then the pump is okay.

More than likely if is the head gasket, it always seems to be  the problem on these things.  Does anyone out there know of an engine that goes through headgaskets more than ours do, I cant think of one mysef.

[rabbitman]

Does anyone out there know of an engine that goes through headgaskets more than ours do, I cant think of one mysef.

Subaru justy's are pretty dumb that way, they have a goofy three cylinder engine and I've "heard" headgaskets go out rather frequently on 'em, mine never has but I hardly ever drive it, also only has like 80,000 miles too though.

[Rabbit TD]

Does anyone out there know of an engine that goes through headgaskets more than ours do, I cant think of one mysef.

Subaru justy's are pretty dumb that way, they have a goofy three cylinder engine and I've "heard" headgaskets go out rather frequently on 'em, mine never has but I hardly ever drive it, also only has like 80,000 miles too though.

Three cylinders?  I guess that means it's probably only 6 head bolts then too.  The only other 3 cyl car I can think of was the original Geo Metro and from all I've heard from people that had them they actualy liked them.  To me they looked like a 3/4 scale early model Golf