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Re-sealed pump- won't start now
by
Rabbit TD
on 25 Apr, 2009 19:25
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Well put my just rebushed and resealed T/D pump back on today. I timed it at 1.0, primed it with my Mighty-Vac on the return line and it seemed to take forever to get any fuel to the injectors and still won't start, not enough fuel. It tries but won't keep going, and advancing or retarding doesn't help either. I tested the pump after I assembled it with the rear mount in a vise with the fuel and return lines in a can of fuel and spun it with a drill and it squirted fuel out the valves 2 feet against the wall and I gave it about 1 min. like that with the throttle wide open and it seemed fine. I thought it would fire right up after I primed the lines and cracked the injector fittings but it doesn't seem to be putting out enough fuel. I'm too frustrated to mess with it for a while but I'm gonna try the fuel lines in a can trick next to see if there is a fuel feed problem.
This pump went together fine and it seemed to work fine spinnig it with the drill. What could be wrong, I'm pissed off :evil: On top of it all I got a computer virus and had to take this damn thing to Staples and it still ain't right and you can't type right because the cursor keeps jumping around and you have to keep correcting it . It's taken me 50 min. now to do this. I feel like taking this SOB and throwing it through the windshield of that Rabbit right now :twisted:
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#1
by
maxfax
on 25 Apr, 2009 19:29
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I rmeber Burn_your_money talking about pumps being put together 180 degrees out.. It's been a while since I was drunk enough to tear into an IP but if I remeber right that wouldn;t be hard to do.. If it seems like it's getting adequate fuel though it maybe it would be worth a try timing it 180 deg out..
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#2
by
Vincent Waldon
on 25 Apr, 2009 19:37
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That would be my first guess... rebuilding it 180 degrees out is very easy to do.
Here's an exploded view with a bit of labeling that explains what you have to watch for to get it right:
BTW, your drill is probably spinning the pump at 1000+ RPM while your starter will spin it at 1/2 of 350 RPM or so... so there will be a difference in output.
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#3
by
Rabbit TD
on 25 Apr, 2009 20:11
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Yes 180 out would have been my first guess too but I actualy posted here about that when I was putting it together and I did line the drive lug on the cam plate with the keyway slot on the main shaft and it was right. That worried me too at the time and I asked here about it to make sure I had it right. I made sure the vane pump was free and not binding when I
assembled it, made sure the throttle shaft was in the same place as it was originaly with the index marks and didn't have any problems putting the return springs back on after I figured out putting the nut on a little helped a lot with that. I practiced on another pump I had first to get more familiar with the insides and didn't have any problems at all and the way it squirted fuel on the vise test made me feel it was fine. I've double checked the timing and I have it on 1.02 right now, was 1.0 on the first try and makes no difference. I even pushed it about 1/4 in. advance once and still no difference other than rattling more when firing a short time.
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#4
by
Rabbit TD
on 25 Apr, 2009 20:22
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Yes 180 out would have been my first guess too but I actualy posted here about that when I was putting it together and I did line the drive lug on the cam plate with the keyway slot on the main shaft and it was right. That worried me too at the time and I asked here about it to make sure I had it right. I made sure the vane pump was free and not binding when Iassembled it, made sure the throttle shaft was in the same place as it was originaly with the index marks and didn't have any problems putting the return springs back on after I figured out putting the nut on a little helped a lot with that. I practiced on another pump I had first to get more familiar with the insides and didn't have any problems at all and the way it squirted fuel on the vise test made me feel it was fine. I've double checked the timing and I have it on 1.02 right now, was 1.0 on the first try and makes no difference. I even pushed it about 1/4 in. advance once and still no difference other than rattling more when firing a short time.
Yes the fuel screw is in the same place as originaly. I never touched the settings on the screw originaly either before I took it apart, it still has the metal sleeve on it in the same place.and none of the other adjustments were touched either. The pump ran fine before I had to reseal it timed at 1.0 but leaked bad.
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#5
by
Vincent Waldon
on 25 Apr, 2009 20:25
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Hmmmm.... interesting.
When you crack the fuel lines at the injectors are you getting any fuel at all? Is the engine popping like it's seeing a little fuel, or completely dead.
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#6
by
Rabbit TD
on 25 Apr, 2009 20:35
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I really don't think anything is assembled wrong but if worse comes to worse I might take the LDA top and put it on the N/A pump. I hate to do that because I put new bushings in the T/D one too and got them real nice with the reamers from Wholesale Tool.
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#7
by
Rabbit TD
on 25 Apr, 2009 21:00
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Hmmmm.... interesting.
When you crack the fuel lines at the injectors are you getting any fuel at all? Is the engine popping like it's seeing a little fuel, or completely dead.
l
Yes I can get it to fire but as soon as you let off the key it imediately stops, holding the key on doesn't work either. I knew something was wrong when it wouldn't dribble out at the injectors for such a long time even with the throttle floored. I've never had one take that long and it didn't take long in the vise either, of course there weren't any lines or injectors involved but it squirted really good. I shot a small amount of brake clean in the intake boot and it runs a few seconds on it then stops, no glow plugs used doing this of course. There is a little fuel coming out when you crack the injectors but not like there is normaly when priming. It's so little it doesn't even smoke when it tries to start .
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#8
by
burn_your_money
on 25 Apr, 2009 21:31
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Try running a jumper wire to the stop solenoid.
Ya never know with these crazy german cars
Regarding the virus on your computer, try googling "panda activescan" It's a free online scan that will delete viruses and worms and detect spyware.
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#9
by
maxfax
on 25 Apr, 2009 21:50
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The stop solenoid could have even decided to convieniently take a poo at this time.. Happened to me last time I changed my TB.. :roll:
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#10
by
Rabbit TD
on 25 Apr, 2009 22:33
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I did check the solenoid when I put it back on the car and it has power to it and it ticks like normal when you touch the wire to it and I had a battery hooked to it on the bench test running of the pump also and worked then too. I'm going to try running it from a fuel source near the pump next I guess. This damn thing went together so nice that I don't know where to look next.
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#11
by
burn_your_money
on 25 Apr, 2009 23:30
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I still think you should try it with constant battery power. Germans build great motors but their wiring leaves something to be desired.
Do you have one of the pulleys with 2 pump locking locations?
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#12
by
mr.mtdi
on 26 Apr, 2009 02:35
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you are shure that you used the "OUT" screw for diesel return. It sounds like your pump has no pressure inside.
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#13
by
Rabbit TD
on 26 Apr, 2009 18:06
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Yes the no. 1 lobes were up, cam locked ,pump pinned and I have a mark on the locking pin hole and it also has the mark at the top of the pulley also. Timed at 1.02 right now. I will check the solenoid though but it does fire a little.
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#14
by
Rabbit TD
on 26 Apr, 2009 19:44
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I've been doing some searches on priming and no start problems. The only thing I am not 100% positive about when I reassembled the pump is the small hole in the control collar . I'm pretty sure I have it the way it was originaly but would it cause a problem if it was facing the wrong way?
Also are those cheaper electric lift pumps and rubber squeeze bulbs safe for diesel and where do you get clear diesel safe fuel line at. :?: