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Please help; mtdi won't start
by
chiefdiesel
on 17 Jan, 2009 23:11
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While adjusting the fuel screw with the engine running, I touched the fuel shut off solenoid switch and stalled the engine. I have replace the solenoid switch on the ip, replaced the glow plug relay, and the ignition switch. Still it will not start. The glow plugs do not have power, also no power before and after the fuse link. Terminal #50 on the ignition switch do not have power. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Tommy.
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#1
by
cyrus #1
on 17 Jan, 2009 23:32
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What do you mean you "touched the fuel shut off solenoid"? Did it get shorted out? That wire is not fused... :x
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#2
by
Rabbit TD
on 17 Jan, 2009 23:45
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While adjusting the fuel screw with the engine running, I touched the fuel shut off solenoid switch and stalled the engine. I have replace the solenoid switch on the ip, replaced the glow plug relay, and the ignition switch. Still it will not start. The glow plugs do not have power, also no power before and after the fuse link. Terminal #50 on the ignition switch do not have power. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Tommy.
You should be able to get it started with a jumper wire from plus side of the battery to the fuel solenoid and a heavy one to the glow plugs and remove the glow plug one when it starts so you can at least drive it till the troubleshooting is done. It sure souds like a fuse somewhre to me though if it happened when you touched the solenoid but I don't know how it's wired though. You'll eventualy find it :wink:
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#3
by
chiefdiesel
on 18 Jan, 2009 00:27
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Pull starts don't work, When the wrench touched the top of the screw on the solenoid, the engine shutoff, and will not start. I used a jumper wire on the solenoid and the #4 glowplug and nothing. There i no current anywhere in the glowplug system.
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#4
by
jtanguay
on 18 Jan, 2009 01:17
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Pull starts don't work, When the wrench touched the top of the screw on the solenoid, the engine shutoff, and will not start. I used a jumper wire on the solenoid and the #4 glowplug and nothing. There i no current anywhere in the glowplug system.
put a direct wire from the battey to the solenoid. should work. just a temporary option until you can diagnose the electrical issue. doesn't sound like fun...
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#5
by
burn_your_money
on 18 Jan, 2009 10:16
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What one of your cars is this for?
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#6
by
chiefdiesel
on 18 Jan, 2009 12:00
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This for the Caddy, I swapped in the mtdi from the Jetta last summer. The engine code is afn with a 2.8 lt 12mm ip...the nozzles are .216, fmic. Only the turbo has not been upgraded.
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#7
by
burn_your_money
on 18 Jan, 2009 13:07
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Are any of the other electrical connections working?
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#8
by
the caveman
on 18 Jan, 2009 18:36
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"50" from the ignition switch is the starter signal. voltage out of the switch while cranking. What you need to look for is the "15" circuit. That is the one that has voltage at all times, cranking and running. It is not impossible you cooked something in the fuse box. However if you have an american made rabbit, there are 3 or 4 american style fusable links below and behind the battery. I don't have the wiring diagrams in front of me to check. With the ignition on, do you have 12 v at the solenoid valve? If not you gotta dig out a diagram and figure exactly where that signal comes from.
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#9
by
chiefdiesel
on 18 Jan, 2009 19:53
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Finally got the engine running. It needed a fresh battery and I jumped the solenoid switch and the glow plug harness. Why does it only start with the solenoid switch jumped?
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#10
by
Rabbit TD
on 20 Jan, 2009 01:50
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Finally got the engine running. It needed a fresh battery and I jumped the solenoid switch and the glow plug harness. Why does it only start with the solenoid switch jumped?
Because you bypassed the bad part and I still say it's a fuse or a fusible link or relay like they said, You're just eleminating most of the system and you can drive it forever like that if you want to put up with all the wire yanking
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#11
by
burn_your_money
on 20 Jan, 2009 13:48
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"50" from the ignition switch is the starter signal. voltage out of the switch while cranking. What you need to look for is the "15" circuit. That is the one that has voltage at all times, cranking and running. It is not impossible you cooked something in the fuse box. However if you have an american made rabbit, there are 3 or 4 american style fusable links below and behind the battery. I don't have the wiring diagrams in front of me to check. With the ignition on, do you have 12 v at the solenoid valve? If not you gotta dig out a diagram and figure exactly where that signal comes from.
I believe it is the 30 series that has power all the time, and 15 is only when the key is in the run position.
I'd venture to guess that your glowplug relay is dead. If you have a spare try it out. First, check to see if you have power to the solenoid with the key in the run position and also in the start position. Disconnect the starter when doing the check to save battery life
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#12
by
chiefdiesel
on 21 Jan, 2009 06:42
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I'll test those circuits today, thanks.