upshift indicator light

[dieselwagen]

my upshift indicator light flickers only when i'm in 5th gear and at highway speeds.

any information is welcome, thanks.

[Quantum TD]

Good luck with that. Diagnosing that system is a PITA. I guess the big question is,

Does the up-shift system work properly when you're in other gears? In other words, does it light up when you are maintaining a constant RPM in gears 1-4, and then go out when you either 1) let off the gas or 2) shift gears?

If it works ok in other situations, then 1) your back-up switch is probably bad, 2) one of the switches on the injection pump are bad, or 3) you have poor contact with the 'W' terminal on your alternator. When you're in 5th, the light should NEVER come on.


Now, if the light NEVER comes on in the other gears, and ONLY comes on when you're in 5th gear, then my suspiction is that the following has occurred:

1) Wrong back-up light switch. If your car was a 4-speed, and then converted to a 5-speed, the wiring will cause the up-shift light to engage when in 5th gear. Or, someone installed a 4-speed backup swith and your car was always a 5-speed. It's probably flickering because the contact in the switch is bad. You'll need to buy the right back-up switch, and rearrange the terminals in the electrical plug to work your back-up lights (according to the Bentley manual).

The light should be out when in 5th gear no matter what your RPMS are.

[dieselwagen]

Does the up-shift system work properly when you're in other gears? In other words, does it light up when you are maintaining a constant RPM in gears 1-4, and then go out when you either 1) let off the gas or 2) shift gears?

yes, it works ok in the first four gears. it would light up on high RPM [tach by ear] then would go out once next gear is selected and so forth.
it does not really stay solid, more like a faint, dim, rapid flicker.
so i drove it while it was dark so i can get a better observation of its behavior and noticed that the alternator light is [flickering] with it.
additionally this alternator light started to stay solid red whenever i go to a complete stop.
the headlamps will also dim while all this flickering takes place.
the car is a 1986 vw golf 1.6, original 5 speed. made in westmoreland.

[Quantum TD]

Your alternator is dying. The upshift unit works off a signal from the alternator too (should be a 'W' terminal on your alt). It feeds the upshift relay.

Time to tighten your alternator belt, and/or buy a new alternator with the correct W terminal on it.

[dieselwagen]

Your alternator is dying. The upshift unit works off a signal from the alternator too (should be a 'W' terminal on your alt). It feeds the upshift relay.

Time to tighten your alternator belt, and/or buy a new alternator with the correct W terminal on it.

vw dealership quoted me $388.usd for a new alternator :shock:

what type of signal comes out of "W" terminal.? can it be measured with a DVOM and what is the normal range?
my alternator charging output has been at 13.9V with engine running.

thanks for the help.

[Vincent Waldon]

http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=13499

[Quantum TD]

vw dealership quoted me $388.usd for a new alternator :shock:

what type of signal comes out of "W" terminal.? can it be measured with a DVOM and what is the normal range?
my alternator charging output has been at 13.9V with engine running.

thanks for the help.

13.9 is a bit low for voltage. It should be a about 14.25.

Don't buy from the dealer: they're a rip-off.

Go to your local CarQuest dealer, WorldPac or IMC dealer. Get a Bosch: either of the following will have the W terminal:

For cars WITHOUT AC:

Part number: 068 903 017 JX
Or
AL20X

For cars WITH factory AC:

Part number: 068 903 018 X
Or
AL30X

The BOLD numbers are the Bosch numbers your local parts store will list.

List price for the AL20x (65 amp for NON-AC cars) is about $110 from AutohausAZ
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=wkwl5t455axdhsjzkbhjq355&partnumber=al20x


List price for the AL30x (90 amp for AC cars)  is $160 from AZautohaus

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=wkwl5t455axdhsjzkbhjq355&partnumber=al30x

Those are very cheap retail prices. I'd buy local though, since you'll have to return the core. Shipping both ways might negate any savings from AZautohaus.

Good luck.

[Vincent Waldon]

13.9 is a bit low for voltage.

Yup, you'd think, but well within the specs in the Bentley and about right in my experience for a Bosch alternator... for some reason they all seem to be below 14V. :wink:

[Quantum TD]

13.9 is a bit low for voltage.

Yup, you'd think, but well within the specs in the Bentley and about right in my experience for a Bosch alternator... for some reason they all seem to be below 14V. :wink:

Yeah, but with a flickering alt light, upshift light and headlights, I'd say minimally the voltage regulator is toast, and pending mileage, time for a complete replacement.

 There's also the question of amperage output. The volts may be within specs, but if amps are low, then time for a new regulator and/or alt.

[dieselwagen]

Yeah, but with a flickering alt light, upshift light and headlights, I'd say minimally the voltage regulator is toast.

with much head scratching today, i ended up buying a voltage regulator.
and it fixed the problem. no more flickering lights.

thanks for all the awesome help fellows. and happy new year to everyone.

[Vincent Waldon]

Yeah, but with a flickering alt light, upshift light and headlights, I'd say minimally the voltage regulator is toast, and pending mileage, time for a complete replacement.

 There's also the question of amperage output. The volts may be within specs, but if amps are low, then time for a new regulator and/or alt.

Totally agree with your diagnosis based on all the facts (and now we have the benefit of hindsight to know that you were bang on!)... my only point (and it was a small one :wink:) was that you can't condemn a Bosch alternator solely on a voltage output of just under 14V... for whatever reason somewhere just north of 13.5 seems to be their standard.

In case search ever leads anyone here, and/or if you're like me and think that sub-14V is a bit wacky, especially for an alternator used in a diesel engine where every coulomb is precious during the winter, here's a 10 cent mod to boost it over 14V:

http://articles.mbz.org/electric/regulator/  (you have to page down past a whack of menus and ads to see the actual text)

A tip from the (god help us!) Mercedes crowd... :wink:

[Rabbit TD]

Yeah, but with a flickering alt light, upshift light and headlights, I'd say minimally the voltage regulator is toast, and pending mileage, time for a complete replacement.

 There's also the question of amperage output. The volts may be within specs, but if amps are low, then time for a new regulator and/or alt.

Totally agree with your diagnosis based on all the facts (and now we have the benefit of hindsight to know that you were bang on!)... my only point (and it was a small one :wink:) was that you can't condemn a Bosch alternator solely on a voltage output of just under 14V... for whatever reason somewhere just north of 13.5 seems to be their standard.

In case search ever leads anyone here, and/or if you're like me and think that sub-14V is a bit wacky, especially for an alternator used in a diesel engine where every coulomb is precious during the winter, here's a 10 cent mod to boost it over 14V:

http://articles.mbz.org/electric/regulator/  (you have to page down past a whack of menus and ads to see the actual text)

A tip from the (god help us!) Mercedes crowd... :wink:

Why is it with these older diesels that you have to rev it to get the light to go out when you first start it no matter how warm it is, voltage regulator :?: