Author Topic: jetta 1.6td runs but won't start, injection pump??  (Read 10331 times)

July 13, 2005, 10:50:58 am

vwautotech

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jetta 1.6td runs but won't start, injection pump??
« on: July 13, 2005, 10:50:58 am »
I have a 91 jetta eco diesel, I'm having trouble starting the car. So far I've replaced the glowplug fuse and the glowplugs. I've heard it could either be bad compression or needs a injection pump. I want to see if anyone thinks it could be something more minor. Car will start fine if you clutch start it going down a hill, but when starting it from a stand still it will only turn over. I've also been told to check the iginition switch ans the fuel cut off switch on the IP. It's a 91 jetta eco diesel 1.6 turbo and it's been sitting for 4-6 months. I did have the car running down the interstate at 90 mph for about 50 miles. You can post or email [email protected] or give me a ring at 434 9967643 if you have some vital info on this topic.    thanks  :D

Reply #1July 13, 2005, 11:07:31 am

fspGTD

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jetta 1.6td runs but won't start, injection pump??
« Reply #1 on: July 13, 2005, 11:07:31 am »
Too slow cranking speed, too low compression, and/or improperly set fuel injection timing are likely suspects.  Also I have found if cam timing is just a couple degrees retarded, it can have a noticeably adverse impact on cold starting as well.

Does the engine start OK after it has been warmed up?  Does it idle and run OK after you get it started?  I have a 1.6l motor that has low compression (I suspect rings, but haven't done a leak-down test to confirm).  It is hard to cold start, but it starts easily after it has warmed up, and also once I get it started it idles and runs very well.

I would recommend downloading and following the appropriate troubleshooting section of the 1.5D Protraining manual.  Download it here, then seek to page 24: http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=321  This is genuine VW factory publication that the VW dealer service departments directly use, and much of it will apply to your 1.6l eco diesel motor.
Jake Russell
'81 VW Rabbit GTD Autocrosser 1.6lTD, SCCA FSP Class
Dieselicious Turbocharger Upgrade/Rebuild Kits

Reply #2July 13, 2005, 11:33:04 am

watsongs

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jetta 1.6td runs but won't start, injection pump??
« Reply #2 on: July 13, 2005, 11:33:04 am »
Thanks for that link, Jake - that's a great resource!

Greg
Greg Watson
'79 Rabbit, 1.5 liters of fun...
If they can get you to ask the wrong questions, they don't have to worry about the answers...

Reply #3July 13, 2005, 03:54:56 pm

vwautotech

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1.6 eco-td starting problem
« Reply #3 on: July 13, 2005, 03:54:56 pm »
thanks for the link, I've been reading some interesting stuff, printing (engine will not start, cranking speed ok) It idles pretty smooth for  a diesel, alot smoother than my friends 84 turbo mercedes diesel!  :lol: It will start back up after it's warm but if you let it sit for 45 min to 1 hour it won't start. The return fuel line also has a huge hole in it so I think some air may have gotten in, I replaced it yesterday w/ some clear line from the hardware store, the fit was perfect. Also the car has been sitting quite a awhile (4-6 months). fuel may be bad, but car runs fine once started.  :!:

Reply #4July 13, 2005, 06:30:17 pm

fspGTD

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jetta 1.6td runs but won't start, injection pump??
« Reply #4 on: July 13, 2005, 06:30:17 pm »
Another idea is perhaps the vanes of the fuel delivery section of the injection pump are stuck so will not pump fuel at cranking rpm.  These parts are steel and can rust if air gets in there and things sit.  There are no springs holding them out, so they rely on centrifugal force to work.  With high enough RPM, for example from bump starting when towing, centrifugal force might be enough to free the stuck vanes and make them work, while mere starter cranking rpm would not be enough.

That condition of "sticky vanes", combined with a fuel leak either allowing fuel out or air into the pump, could result in hard or no starting after waiting long enough for the air to build up inside the pump.  You are doing well to fix any air bubble sources or fuel leaks you can find in the system.  You could also consider plumbing in one of those outboard motor style squeeze bulbs and give it some squeezing before starting to manually prime the pump with fuel and purge out the air, and see if it helps.  With the pump filled to the brim with fuel, it seems like some fuel would make it into high pressure plunger section even with non-functioning vane pump section.
Jake Russell
'81 VW Rabbit GTD Autocrosser 1.6lTD, SCCA FSP Class
Dieselicious Turbocharger Upgrade/Rebuild Kits

Reply #5July 14, 2005, 10:21:09 am

vwautotech

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Jetta eco 1.6 starting problem
« Reply #5 on: July 14, 2005, 10:21:09 am »
Jetta is fixed, I relaced the return fuel hose, changed the oil 15w 40, charged the battery, and then tryed to clutch start it it wouldn't start, so i parked it and tryed to start again. The engine ran for a second, from then on I knew it would fire from a cold start, so I proceeded to find some jumper cables, 20 minutes later I had the jetta started and running on the second try, so to be sure I tryed this morning again, and on the first try it fired with ease. ......  Had another question though, What can I do for maintence to preserve the life of the car and injection pump besides timeing belt, fuel filter, and oil changes??

 thanks for everyones vital info on this topic!  :o  :!:

Reply #6July 14, 2005, 12:43:37 pm

fspGTD

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jetta 1.6td runs but won't start, injection pump??
« Reply #6 on: July 14, 2005, 12:43:37 pm »
First off - congrats on solving the starting issue!  :D

To answer your other question, I would say to maintain your fuel injection equipment, to find a clean station near you that has consistently good fuel quality and buy your fuel from them as often as is practical.  Experiment around with the fuel being sold at various local stations first, you can often tell from how well your engine runs how good the cetane is of the fuel.  Better cetane fuel will give better fuel mileage and more power and less smoke.  After you have identified a station that consistently has good quality fuel, only buy elsewhere when you are doing long-distance traveling.  I also really hope you do not live or have to travel through Kansas, as they seem to have only consistently POOR QUALITY diesel there!

Stanadyne performance formula additive is good stuff made by a manufacturer of diesel fuel injection equipment, which due to the lubricity improvers should increase life of your pump and injectors, and will likely recoup its cost when bought by the case just based on improved fuel mileage resulting from the improved cetane (I have documented a 3% improvement from using it.)  It's a little bit of a hassle to use as the bottles are prone to dripping and do not seal well, and the stuff really stinks when dripped, but I have found it is especially helpful when used with a bad tank of fuel.

I am also a fan of synthetic lubricants including tranny fluid and motor oil.  Synthetic 5W40 is good for a 3% added torque and fuel efficiency especially in colder weather, versus a 15W40.  Use an oil with a good diesel spec a la CG-4, CF-4 or better.  Not only will help reduce metal wear from the lower friction but it will have less tendency to oxidize and turn to sludge particularly in the hot turbo bearing housing.

Do not shut down your motor shortly after driving it hard, instead allow it to idle for up to a minute to allow it to cool down in these situations.  If you have a pyrometer, you can monitor the exhaust gas temperatures and consider routinely idling until EGT drops below a set point you establish for yourself.  Or, consider adding a turbo-timer so you will be more likely to actually let you engine always adequately cool down, IE: especially when you are in a hurry.  This is of much less importance if you are using a synthetic engine oil.

KEEP COOLANT IN IT AT ALL TIME!  Be on the lookout for abnormal coolant level like a hawk.  If you are leaking any coolant at any time address it promptly.  Running low on coolant easily will blow a head gasket allowing combustion gasses to leak into the cooling system, expelling more coolant from the system, and potentially causing a severe overheat which can then also permanently warp the cylinder head.  Overheating from low coolant is without a doubt in my ming the #1 cause of VW Diesel death.  Keep coolant in them, and these motors are really hard to kill.  So for preventative maintenance, it is not a bad idea to replace ALL your coolant hoses, etc especially if they are getting old/high miles/cracked/soft/oil or diesel damaged, as opposed to waiting until one springs a leak.

Which brings up another point, do not let diesel sit on coolant hoses or other rubber parts it shouldn't be touching in the engine compartment, as the diesel will attack the rubber but not evaporate, disintegrating the rubber over time.

Keep up on v-belt system maintenance.  You may think they do not matter for the longevity of the motor, but occasionally when let go, can jump off the crank pulley and melt through the timing belt cover and take out the timing belt.

Those are my tips for you it in a nutshell - enjoy your TD!
Jake Russell
'81 VW Rabbit GTD Autocrosser 1.6lTD, SCCA FSP Class
Dieselicious Turbocharger Upgrade/Rebuild Kits