-
Leaky IP - what now?
by
Jettage1
on 25 Nov, 2008 17:50
-
Discovered that the IP on my '92 EcoDiesel seems to have recently started leaking. Top and front side are clean and dry. Underside is wet, and the side of the block & hoses below also show moisture. It isn't pouring out, but there are a number of drips on the floor.
Based on what I can see, it looks like there's moisture on the back side (next to the block) where the fast idle lever assembly is. Perhaps that's leaking somehow.
So what now? Is this a common thing? Easy fix, or am I looking at an IP rebuild while I'm at it?
Crap.
Thanks in advance for any guidance.
-
#1
by
burn_your_money
on 25 Nov, 2008 18:01
-
Check the FAQ. Most people can reseal that one themselves. Andrew also offers a complete reseal service, check the vendors section. You will need to remove the pump either way.
You can try filling the pump with ATF and letting it sit for 48 hours. That usually will "fix" the leak for a month or two while you come up with a better plan.
Now is the perfect time to find a TD pump (or use your current pump) and have Giles build you a super pump
-
#2
by
Jettage1
on 25 Nov, 2008 18:20
-
Thanks Tyler. I did check the FAQ, but the page that the resealing link goes to appears to have dropped the resealing info. (either that or I'm an idiot - a strong possibility...)
I'll run a search on "reseal" and also check out the vendor section. I thought about the pump upgrade, but have heard that a new pump ain't chump change...
I'm taking the car in for a tranny rebuild next week (my 020 AVX has some questionable sychros) and not sure I can stomach two big tickets at once.
-
#3
by
burn_your_money
on 25 Nov, 2008 18:26
-
Step one, don't rebuild that gear box. It's a horrible box. Get something with decent gears and start from there. You'll save a lot of wear and tear on your motor, and also money on diesel.
If you are getting one rebuilt, I would get broke (
www.brokevw.com ) to do it
-
#4
by
Jettage1
on 25 Nov, 2008 18:31
-
Oh. I hadn't run across much on the 020 AVX... What makes you say it's bad, and what would you consider to be a good one?
(not questioning your opinion - trying to learn here & see if I need to change directions...)
-
#5
by
burn_your_money
on 25 Nov, 2008 18:33
-
Go to
www.scirocco.org/gears and punch in some numbers and you'll see it's not very good. a 4S, ACN (I think) and a few others are nice direct swaps.
Also, thanks for the tip on the bad link. I fixed it and if you recheck the FAQ, it should lead you to the right page now
-
#6
by
Jettage1
on 25 Nov, 2008 18:50
-
Thanks for fixing the link - much better! Also I should have run a search before - I know better! Just frustrated with the stooopid car at the moment. I'll check out the tranny link you posted too.
-
#7
by
Jettage1
on 25 Nov, 2008 19:00
-
Going a bit OT here, but I did go to the tranny link. Looks like the main difference between the ones you suggested and the AVX is that the AVX has a final drive of 4.25 and the others are 3.94. Based on the calculator it means a difference of about 223 rpm at 65 mph.
Interesting...
-
#8
by
burn_your_money
on 25 Nov, 2008 19:30
-
Yeah exactly.
There are worse transmissions out there, but if you are going to be spending money on one, I wouldn't chose the AVX
-
#9
by
zukgod1
on 25 Nov, 2008 19:33
-
the ACN that Tyler mentioned has a 3.67 final.
Using that figure your looking at going 62mph @ 3000 rpm with the 4.27 vs 72mph @ 3000 rpm with the 3.67
That's more like 500 rpm.
4.27 is WAY to low and in my opinion so is 3.94
If you must have a 3.94 at least get a .71 5th so you can drive it on the open road.
-
#10
by
zukgod1
on 25 Nov, 2008 19:35
-
Back OT.
On your pump, they really are not that tough to reseal but as Tyler mentioned Andrew can reseal it for ya so all you would have to do is R&R it.
-
#11
by
Jettage1
on 26 Nov, 2008 04:19
-
Thanks for all of the advice guys.
On the pump, I'm pondering my time vs money pain threshold & will figure something out. I'll either fix the one seal myself or send to Andrew. I can't really afford Giles right now, but IF I were to consider moving to a stock, non-ECO IP, what one would you recommend, and what might I expect to pay for a known working one? Any known reliable sources?
On the MTX, my mistake on the ACN - my eyes jumped a row... I guess the tradeoff is between lower highway rpm on the units you recommended, and a bit quicker accel with the high FD ratio on my current AVX. Am I right or did I miss something else?
-
#12
by
burn_your_money
on 26 Nov, 2008 04:54
-
On the MTX, my mistake on the ACN - my eyes jumped a row... I guess the tradeoff is between lower highway rpm on the units you recommended, and a bit quicker accel with the high FD ratio on my current AVX. Am I right or did I miss something else?
Exactly correct
Used pumps range from 50-350 from what I've seen. Remember that the seals in a used pump are probably just as old as what are in yours now.
Get a NA or a TD pump, both would be an upgrade over what you have now.
-
#13
by
Jettage1
on 26 Nov, 2008 06:38
-
...each answer leads to more questions, of course. :roll:
For a basically stock motor, any functional diff btwn NA & TD pumps?
...And what other things would I need to change on my ECO to use either of them?
I understand about the old seals. Guess I was thinking if I was going to reseal something, maybe might as well be a better performing pump...
-
#14
by
Jettage1
on 28 Nov, 2008 08:47
-
Thanks Andrew - that's very helpful.
Regarding the cat - that's how one thing leads to another! :wink: You know - new pump, new 2.5" exhaust, etc.... Next thing you know you're into Real Money :lol:
I might nurse my existing pump along until I can find a good TD pump to swap in... Then do the pump and change the timing belt all at one swell foop. (for most people its a fell swoop, but for me it's usually the former...)