Author Topic: 1.6L TD in a Dodge Caravan  (Read 134306 times)

Reply #30September 12, 2008, 08:03:19 am

jtanguay

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1.6L TD in a Dodge Caravan
« Reply #30 on: September 12, 2008, 08:03:19 am »
you could always get an oil filter relocation kit.  would be nice because i really don't like removing the oil filter while on an angle... it just spills all over!


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Reply #31September 12, 2008, 08:12:41 am

arb

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1.6L TD in a Dodge Caravan
« Reply #31 on: September 12, 2008, 08:12:41 am »
I thought about a relocator kit and still might do that as I too don't like dumping oil on the ground.

An up side I discovered last night while doing the metrics for the engine mounts is with the filter at the angle the bell housing will not work as the anti torque engine mount. I will have to use the 3 bosses on the side of the block under the dip stick. I should also use the optional one on the back of the differential.

Reply #32September 15, 2008, 08:13:29 am

arb

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« Reply #32 on: September 15, 2008, 08:13:29 am »
Thought I'd have the car running down the steet today, But Ike had other ideas. We got dumped on in Michigan this weekend. Too much water to drop the engine in. I did fab the main motor mount. It is 5" furher and 3" down from the stock mount. Photos to follow.

Reply #33September 15, 2008, 10:51:59 pm

arb

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« Reply #33 on: September 15, 2008, 10:51:59 pm »
OK, a few days back I ran new oil lines for the GT15 turbo. I am a cheekskate so I used 5/16 brake lines and spliced it to that oil line from the scammer sold broken turbo from TX. Here are the photos of feeding the line:




Here's the prefab:



So far so good until my very cheep brake line bender broke. I was going to weld it:


So I try to weld it, but it was made with crap metal I think....


OK, I gave up wasting time and bought a good bender.  $8.99


almost ready to hang the package - Here's the almost finished front engine mount - VW / Dodge.


Finished - notice the fail-safe bolt throgh both mounts ?

Reply #34September 15, 2008, 11:43:07 pm

cowboybootlegger

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« Reply #34 on: September 15, 2008, 11:43:07 pm »
That angled filter mount appears to be the style used on the longitudinally mounted engines, like in the dashers and audis.  The transverse styles should point more directly straight down.  You can also try using the smaller gas engine oil filter, you will lose the higher capacity, but the smaller circumference would clear the bellhousing. The gas engine fram number, (crap brand, but the only one i can recall from memory) is 2870.

Reply #35September 16, 2008, 07:10:58 am

arb

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« Reply #35 on: September 16, 2008, 07:10:58 am »
Thanks for the tip on the filter.  I might do that if using a belt sander to knock off 1/4" from the corner of the bellhousing does not work. These Mobil 1 filters are all synthetic and designed for extended run. I will still change it every 7K miles and dump the oil every 25K miles. By then, the oil will have been changed over once anyway as this filter is nearly half the volume of the pan.

Reply #36September 17, 2008, 12:22:56 pm

arb

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« Reply #36 on: September 17, 2008, 12:22:56 pm »
OK, last night I replaced the timing belt covers. The lower one I had to modify a little because of the 4" C channel engine mount extender. I did not want too much bending forces on it as 5" is quite long.

I think with the top cover holding it against the block, the other 2 bolts will hole the lower cover in place.

Next I made the turbo support bracket. I did not want all that weight pulling down on the exhaust manifold. The first photo you see the garbage weld from  using Stick welding to tack it down before I moved it to the vise for a TIG weld.

Tonight I will bolt it on and faboricate the trans mount. At least that is the plan.

Reply #37September 17, 2008, 10:57:20 pm

arb

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« Reply #37 on: September 17, 2008, 10:57:20 pm »
OK, the turbo is mounted and supported !! Here's the pic:


Next, I mounted the Dodge 3 way pulley on the crank. It bolts right on. I wanted the serpentine belt as well as the stock V belt for the water pump and A/C. The Serpentine would have ran the alternator. BUT, no dice, there was not enough clearance.

So, I compromised. The primary V pulley and the serpentine were once piece, but the outer V pulley was held onto with 3 dimples. I drilled them out and cleaned up the stock crank V pulley and the outer Dodge pulley. I will still have A/C when I want it - in the winter I might remove the A/C V belt, but  the water pump and a different single wire Ford alternator will have the stock V belt arrangement. Notice the top photo shows the serpentine / V belt pulley from the Dodge, and the right pulley is the stock VW. The left pulley is the outer V belt. The fresh paint will be dry tomorrow and I will try this again. Actually, I dry fitted them with the water pump pulley before painting ;-)
 

Reply #38September 18, 2008, 06:17:28 am

dillenger1

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« Reply #38 on: September 18, 2008, 06:17:28 am »
how does the timing belt cover go back on if you welded to the ip support?
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Reply #39September 18, 2008, 08:51:26 am

arb

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« Reply #39 on: September 18, 2008, 08:51:26 am »
Quote from: "dillenger1"
how does the timing belt cover go back on if you welded to the ip support?

The upper metal cover is not affected. The lower plastic cover's attach fitting on the upper left side is under the new motor mount I welded to the IP support. This area of the plastic cover is rigid and it held against the block by the upper metal cover as well. I removed about half the material at this upper left attach pint, so there is still structure to keep it from contacting the timing belt.

It was a compromise. Making this mount 3x longer than stock increases the loads quite a bit, so the strong mount was important.

Reply #40September 19, 2008, 10:19:05 am

arb

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1.6L TD in a Dodge Caravan
« Reply #40 on: September 19, 2008, 10:19:05 am »
Last night I got a few more things done. I have my crank and water pump pulley's secured. Now I have to dig up my spare alternator with a V belt. The single wire new one I have has a serpentine belt pulley on it :-( See the aluminum casting on the floor ? If I can find a way to mount it on the cast iron bracket for the VW alternator, I can direction bolt the Caravan alternator and A/C pump to it.

I turned my attention to the turbo drain line. Look how low it is on the engine. Does anyone else have this low of a line ? This means there will be some pooling in the line. Is that OK ? Will that damage the oil seals in the turbo ? My plan was to run a rubber fuel line - 3/4" in ID back to the front of the block to the vac pump vent. I didn't want it near the half shaft at the pan.

Next I turned my attention to the other motor mounts. I removed the VW mount from the trans. One of the bolts had quite a bit of aluminum oxide holding in the trans. I will use the Caravan mount's rubber isolator.

Here is the rusty 4" C channel I used for the other motor mount. It was reclaimed after years of service at a now closed Hoover plant. It is possible it actually helped make the foam in the seats of this very caravan.

One key way to get quality welds is to TIG weld with a sharp point on the tungsten. I use my disc sander to remove build-up.

Here is the wing for the mount. The VW mounting bolts are just over 4" apart. A wire wheel got the rust off the C channel.

Yes, that's 163 amps !! I wanted deep penetration.

Here's the weld on the top side. Looks better on the bottom ;-)

Bottom weld. - Excessive ?

Here's how I will be mounting the trans -

Reply #41September 19, 2008, 01:45:21 pm

53 willys

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« Reply #41 on: September 19, 2008, 01:45:21 pm »
Nice job buddy..keep up the good work! 8)
91 Jetta GLI=1.6TD conversion Clutchnet 210mm 24spline sprung RACE clutch~lightened flywheel~port and polished head~ARP head [email protected]~1.6MLS head gasket~BB T3 turbo~11mm pump~DN0SD273 tips~Intercooled~3" Turbo back~
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Reply #42September 19, 2008, 01:52:34 pm

allsierra123

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« Reply #42 on: September 19, 2008, 01:52:34 pm »
wow that is some conversion. And I was worried about moving my mounts a 1/4" to the rear.  :D
91 vanagon gl 1.9td conversion in progress.

Reply #43September 19, 2008, 02:56:46 pm

arb

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Q & A from an email about the forum post
« Reply #43 on: September 19, 2008, 02:56:46 pm »
Quote
Where did you acquire the engine?

I found the engine just over 2 years back from a DCX trades guy. He posted the complete engine / trans on craigslist for $200. Then my contract there was not renewed and he held it for over a year for me... when I got there, he had a box of extra parts he gave me - 3 injection pumps, a NEW vac pump, a used vac pump, extra injectors, a new half shaft, and many others... $$$ on ebay. Then, he gave me a 220 pound milk crate sold with welding rods - someone stole his arc welder and he was excited that I was doing the caravan ;-)
 
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I see aluminum oxide was sticking one valve open. Glad to see it was not anything worse.

Yeah, I was worried about that #2 cylinder.
Quote
Good idea to place a new timing belt and tensioner on it. I don't understand why you have to do so much fabrication to fit a Turbo. Didn't the turbo come with it? And what's with the exhaust manifold? Didn't come with it either? You received a five cylinder manifold, not a 4 cylinder manifold from a Ebay purchase? But you made it work. Amazing.

This engine was not a turbo, but the block was a turbo. It has the turbo oil spray for the pistons... stock turbos did not have a intercooler, so they had lots of heat to dump. Mine will have intercooler. I wanted the turbo as it increases the efficiency - more O2 to burn fuel = less smoke. The injection pump is not a turbo, so I will simply have more O2.....  Yeah, the jerk sold me an Audi turbo and manifold - said it would bolt on. Got it and the turbo was junk and there was that extra hole !!! He would not return calls and I got laid off again, so no $$$ to go through the cycle again. I did find a NEW turbo on eBay for $299. Its a Garrett. That's why all the fabrication.
Quote
I would take the Dodge halfshafts and the VW halfshafts to a local prop shaft fabricator and have them match them up and balance them.

I might have to get them balanced. I've talked with 2 guys who have spliced half shafts like this. If I keep the run out to less than 0.020" I will be OK to 80 mph. One guy put a second engine in a Honda CRX and had it to 130 mph !! His are to 0.005" - they both said for mine if I used my magnetic mount dial indicator on the K frame, I will be able to tack weld it true. Then finish welding. I'll try it. Ideally I'd make a spline for both that allowed me to change one half at a time when the CV join needs replacing. I'm looking forward to 500,000 miles. The both is from Virginia so no rust :-) I replaced the rear wheel bearings and have new 15" hubs for the front - it came with 14".... I want the taller tires for more mpg.
 
Quote
What are your plans with the low pressure fuel delivery from the tank?

I have that low pressure electronic pump you see in the pump will be mounted in line just before the filter / water separated. It free flows with off. I'll have a separate toggle switch next to the glow plug switch. I don't want to rely on the factory glow plug relay. I had a diesel rabbit's relay stick once and it burned out the plugs - $60 at that time. W/o them, you can't cold start unless your spin the engine very fast - as in a big hill or a push start with a car. I pulled the tank for 2 reasons - one is to remove the high pressure pump in the tank. I hope it is easy to still use the factory pickup. The second is the fuel filler neck needs to be opened up to the full diameter. I want to be able to fill at truck stops too. They have a really big hose.

Reply #44September 20, 2008, 01:47:50 am

arb

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« Reply #44 on: September 20, 2008, 01:47:50 am »
OK Guys, I am sorry if my title of tonight's progress offends anyone. Today I really did drive past the Orthodox Ukrainian Church on the boarder of Detroit I married my wife less than 3 years ago... :-P
So, even though Friday Night is devoted to my newly web "Second Start on life" - I simply had to get progress in the shop....
Tonight I fabed the trans mount and half of the anti-torque front mount. Here is the dimentional sizing of the trans main mount...

Here is the back bracing of this mount.

Here is the welding of the engine part of the anti - torque trans front mount. I understand some of you do not use the rear mount....

Here it is on the block...

Here's my improvised way to cut an angle iron mount from the 4" C channel. This will be used to offset the main engine mount on the passenger side if I need to index the engine toward the rear so I have clearance for the down pipe.

We will see what tomorrow will bring as I start re-roofing the shop in 8 hours. ;-P