Author Topic: 1.6L TD in a Dodge Caravan  (Read 131278 times)

Reply #60October 10, 2008, 11:56:19 am

zukgod1

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1.6L TD in a Dodge Caravan
« Reply #60 on: October 10, 2008, 11:56:19 am »
Quote from: "arb"
Quote from: "libbybapa"


My understanding was that the bearing type used in the turbo determined whether or not it needed a restrictor.  The journal type used in all VWs will take full pressure (and need it) while the ball bearing types require a restrictor both because they don't need the oil pressure to keep the parts from self-destructing and because they will pass enough oil to cause pressure loss in the rest of the system.

Andrew


That's my understanding too. Can someone explain better ?


I'm not sure you are going to get a better explanation than that really.

Ball bearing turbo needs some type of restriction, wet bearing do not.
dan

99 Golf TDI (now CNG powered) , 82 TD Caddy

Reply #61October 10, 2008, 02:26:08 pm

arb

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« Reply #61 on: October 10, 2008, 02:26:08 pm »
Yes, the concept is clear - I was looking for something like:
GT15 is sleve, T3 is ball bearing, etc.

Reply #62October 10, 2008, 03:02:54 pm

zukgod1

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« Reply #62 on: October 10, 2008, 03:02:54 pm »
Quote from: "arb"
Yes, the concept is clear - I was looking for something like:
GT15 is sleve, T3 is ball bearing, etc.


Ah I see..

Pretty much every turbo on the market is a sleeve type bearing.

Aftermarket has been building some ball bearing turbos and a few OE mfg have been installing them on trucks. I think the new Power Strokes have BB turbos.
Anyway, if your in doubt and you have a turbo in your hand give the shaft a spin. If it just keep goooooing it's prob BB if it spins a few times then stops it's sleeve. Aside from taking it apart or calling the MFG that the best bet.
dan

99 Golf TDI (now CNG powered) , 82 TD Caddy

Reply #63October 14, 2008, 12:02:29 pm

arb

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Almost ready to go in the car...
« Reply #63 on: October 14, 2008, 12:02:29 pm »
In the last few days I have gotten much closer to hanging the engine in the car. I could have done this weeks ago, but it would be a bit harder to make the various brackets for the alternator and a/c compressor. It they don't fit, I have my priorities set so I'll be cutting some Dodge body parts to make them fit !! :-)
I almost forgot about the idler pulley for the a/c compressor - since the compressor is fixed mounted, it requires one. Good thing I happened to have one in my collection. Here's the mounts being taped, I also welded a nut to the back side so I could be sure of good clamping forces.

Here it is being welded to the assembly:

And a view from the bottom side:


Here's the alternator mount being fab'd:

A check of the idler pulley mount shows that welding warped the flat spot, so I used the TIG torch to heat and bend it back.

Here is where I tied the new bracket to the side engine anti-torque mount.

The alternator is on the engine. I need some place to secure the adjustment end of the alternator, I wish there was another place but I could not see it so its going on the front.

Something like this - the 2 corners will have 7/16 bolts to give good clamping forces.

Reply #64October 14, 2008, 12:25:59 pm

arb

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« Reply #64 on: October 14, 2008, 12:25:59 pm »
WOW !!!  Maybe I will be re-making the tensioning bracket - I just saw on 53 Willy's post that with standoffs the 2 bosses on the rear side of the engine can be use !
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Reply #65October 15, 2008, 02:36:58 am

fatmobile

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« Reply #65 on: October 15, 2008, 02:36:58 am »
I must have misread on the restritor in the turbo oil line.
 I thought that's what the connector at the filter was.
 Thanks for doing such a great writeup on this.
 
 I always thought when the minivans came out that some day I might own one,.. when they were old enough to be affordable. Now I just play with VW diesels so didn't imagine that happening,... until now.  :D
Tornado red, '91 Golf 4 door,
with a re-ringed, '84 quantum, turbo diesel, MD block

Reply #66October 15, 2008, 09:03:17 am

arb

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« Reply #66 on: October 15, 2008, 09:03:17 am »
Yeah, the Caravan was had for $485 from craigslist with the factory 5 speed on the floor - with almost the same clutch cable and cables to shift was the VW uses so this part is very easy to convert. It had a current Virginia title and there is NO rust on the body. It needs pain like most sun baked cars, but that's better than rust.

On the alternator tensioner, I looked further - the 2 bosses in the block where the stock bracket would bolt are very rusty, and they push on the alternator, so I'm going to use the pulling tensioner I built. I might change the very end that attaches to the bottom of the alternator to a screw jack. I measured and there is enough room in the engine bay to keep this bracket.

Reply #67October 17, 2008, 04:00:46 pm

dillenger1

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« Reply #67 on: October 17, 2008, 04:00:46 pm »
what are you doing for steering?power or manual.
Cummins 4bta- 85 dodge prospector short bed
28 mpg!!and i can pull down a house!
1.6td in toyota pickup
10mm head ,t3 intercooled.

Reply #68October 17, 2008, 06:23:18 pm

arb

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« Reply #68 on: October 17, 2008, 06:23:18 pm »
Back on page 1 or 2 I showed how I removed the perfectly good power rack and replaced it with a new manual as economy is the name of my game. The a/c compressor is a separate belt and I think I'll leave it off until the hot days of summer - about 2.5 - 3 months in Michigan.

Reply #69October 23, 2008, 09:09:42 am

arb

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« Reply #69 on: October 23, 2008, 09:09:42 am »
I'm back at my project - the neighbor was complaining about the mess in my yard resulting from my focus on the "diesel mistress"

I decided to use a jack screw style alternator bracket. Here is the making of the curved stationary bracket that will hold the tension on the alternator. The cuts allowed me to bend it gradually:

Here are the welds filling in the cuts:

Here is what the bracket will look like welded to the alternator - a/c mounting bracket:

Here's the curved bracket welded to the assembly.

Next is to make the jack screw and paint the assembly.

Reply #70October 24, 2008, 09:18:25 am

arb

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« Reply #70 on: October 24, 2008, 09:18:25 am »
Time to finish the Alternator brackets. I dug up the Chrysler alternator bracket. It looks like I can cut it down to fix my VW / Chevy bracket.

On closer inspection, I decided I wanted the jack screw type because they are usually easier to adjust if you can't get both hands around the alternator to pull it tight. So, I looked for a long enough bolt in the collection with long enough threads. The only thing I have is US threads and a tad longer than I need, but I can cut off the extra later. Then I cut a piece of angle stock and drilled a 7/16 hole in it for the alternator bolt. Next I welded 2 nuts on either side of it, on the side 90 degrees from this hole. This will keep the thrust always perpendicular to the alternator bolt. They required taping after welding to clean up the threads. I might use a jam nut with nylon thread locker on the end of the bolt.

FINISHED !!  I have a complete alternator bracket set now !

Next is the anti-torque bracket for the front of the car. The factory one would have bolted to the bell housing where the starter bolts on, but the angled oil filter is in the way. This mount is also further to the drivers side than the alternator mounts could accommodate, so I decided I'll move this mount from the factory location to slightly to the passenger side from center line. Here's the C channel stock being cut.

Here it is trimmed and welded to the assembly for the alternator & A/C compressor.

Here's another view. It shows most of the forces are on the three bolts in the center of the block.

Here it is all shinny and painted :-)

Reply #71October 24, 2008, 09:26:12 am

burn_your_money

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« Reply #71 on: October 24, 2008, 09:26:12 am »
Wow that looks like so much work. Right on  :D

I wish I had half those tools
Tyler

Reply #72October 24, 2008, 09:57:31 am

arb

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« Reply #72 on: October 24, 2008, 09:57:31 am »
Thanks Dude !!  Part of my rational for painting parts and making everything as high a quality as is reasonable is all of the VW's I've had (2 diesel, 1 gasser) the engines were all going strong when the body fell apart from rust. Mostly in the driver's window / suspension support areas. This Caravan is made with mostly galvanized steel and has not seen Michigan salt until part of last year.

 The tools are an investment to finish building the 2 seat experimental airplane you see hanging from the rafters in the photo with the painted bracket :-)  My newly wed wife calls them my toys. She is partially correct - some guys buy electronic toys and I buy nice tools when I need to do something.

Reply #73October 24, 2008, 03:00:47 pm

theman53

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« Reply #73 on: October 24, 2008, 03:00:47 pm »
the question now is how much to make me some brakets so I can just bolt my spare engine up???

Reply #74October 24, 2008, 03:50:51 pm

arb

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« Reply #74 on: October 24, 2008, 03:50:51 pm »
Quote from: "theman53"
the question now is how much to make me some brakets so I can just bolt my spare engine up???

LOL !! I'm glad there is some humor on this cold rainy Friday !

Sometime this winter / sping, I'd like to find a 1.6 TD core to rebuild for when I wear this one out ;-)