-
rebuilt head going on
by
subsonic
on 24 May, 2008 09:10
-
Went to install my rebuilt 1.6 head on the old engine this morning. Nice suprise, All the bolts were missing fron the bracket that attaches to the block and fuel injection pump except the one on the far right. Bolt on the bottom of the pump was missing as well. That might have something to do it running rough in the past.
-
#1
by
jimfoo
on 24 May, 2008 09:52
-
Glad(but not) to hear I'm not the only one who had that problem. At least you still had one left.
-
#2
by
subsonic
on 24 May, 2008 13:54
-
I thought it was caused by the alt belt slap wearing a hole through the cover and rubbing the belt, causing it to wear thin and let go. Perhaps this had something to do with it.
Anyone else lost bolts from this bracket?
I remember reading something on here about lifting up on one end of the bracket as you tighten it. Ring a bell with anyone?
-
#3
by
somolovitch3
on 25 May, 2008 08:42
-
Google "pump bracket bending" its a lot faster then using the search funtion here.
-
#4
by
subsonic
on 25 May, 2008 11:00
-
Made some progress today. Got the IP off. Removed the bracket and cleaned it up. Ran a tap down all the bolt holes and cleaned out the garbage. Reinstalled the bracket. Got the intake manifold and airbox installed on the head. Exhaust manifold is on as well. Found out I am missing one nut for the exhaust manifold. Anyone know what size it is off of the top of there head? Glow plugs installed. Will install the new inj. heat shields and injectors in a bit. Will position the cam correctly, and call it good for a few hours. Gonna shower up and spend some time with the family instead of yelling " No, that is all greasy! stop playing with it!"
-
#5
by
subsonic
on 25 May, 2008 17:14
-
Installed the head. Keeping the HG from sliding around was a pain in ass! With the manifolds all attached I couldnt come straight down, but had to angle the head in and then adjust it into place. Damn thing kept moving. I said the hell with it and broke out the arp head studs. I put 4 in to hold the gasket in place. What a smart guy I am. No luck. Couldnt angle the head in with out the air box hitting the back wall. Grrrr....
Pull the head studs. Put the head back in for the 4th time, get one bolt in, wiggle, adjust, get in another wiggle adjust etc.... all done. torqued to 44lbs and a additional 180 degrees. Installed glow plug connections, way easier with no injection pump in the way. I am going to wait on the injectors until I get the timing belt done. Hope to get on all new belts tomorrow, timing belt, and all the pulleys. Injection pump will go on and I will be learning as I go how to time this beast. Having the unit actually secure might just make a difference. Need to re-install the dipstick tube as well. O-ring around the tube where it sits in the block had gone to hell. Thing is going to leak like crazy unless I can get something similar in there. Ideas?
-
#6
by
burn_your_money
on 25 May, 2008 17:45
-
silicon paste works fine in place of the o-ring, thats what I did when mine crapped out.
-
#7
by
subsonic
on 26 May, 2008 15:45
-
I have most of the engine put back together. When I put the timing belt tensioner back on, I notice that it is making contact / scraping against the metal backer plate. Is there supposed to be a spacer or something? The metal plate between the head and the tensioner does not appear to be deformed or anything, what gives?
-
#8
by
subsonic
on 26 May, 2008 17:13
-
I pursuaded it back a little further with a hammer. Spins free now. Here is my new problem. If you do not have the special vw tool to insert into the two tiny holes on the timing belt tensioner, how do you set the tension correctly?
-
#9
by
jimfoo
on 26 May, 2008 17:45
-
I used 2 small drill bits with the closed end of a 10mm box wrench over one and rest the side of the wrench against the other.
-
#10
by
subsonic
on 27 May, 2008 11:15
-
That worked. Belts done. I ended up turning it over by hand 3-4 times. The T-belt moved from the center of the IP pulley to right on the outer edge, but no further. I will leave the cover off for a bit to see if it tracks true. Broke out my new timing kit from germany. Got it mounted on the pump, but had to head on in to work. When the direction say 2.5 of preload, do the mean just push it in untill the indicator makes 2 1/2 revolutions? Ayone know if there is a particular sweet spot for the 1.6NA?
-
#11
by
jimfoo
on 27 May, 2008 11:36
-
Yes, 2.5 revs, though the exact amount isn't important, just that it is always in contact with the plunger. Have too little and the plunger could still be receding but the gauge won't show it, then the timing would be off.
-
#12
by
zukgod1
on 27 May, 2008 13:05
-
all done. torqued to 44lbs and a additional 180 degrees.
Am I reading that correctly?
You installed the ARP head studs then torqued to 44lbs then a additional 180 deg?
Where did you get that spec from?
Sounds like stock head bolt torque to me.
-
#13
by
subsonic
on 27 May, 2008 14:43
-
Pull the head studs. Put the head back in for the 4th time, get one bolt in, wiggle, adjust, get in another wiggle adjust etc.... all done. torqued to 44lbs and a additional 180 degrees.
Yep, those where brand new stock bolts.
I hope to get it running tommorrow. Getting pretty tired of bumming rides.
-
#14
by
subsonic
on 28 May, 2008 07:45
-
I am having a problem with the timing belt. I have the Injection pump pulley locked in the correct location, the cam is locked at TDC, The flywheel mark is sitting directly under the TDC mark arrow, verified as correct while the head was off. When I set the belt tensioner to the correct tension, the mark on the flywheel moves either to the left or right, depending on which way I move the tensioner while adjusting it. It's not off by a lot, 1/2 a cm approx. I have pulled the belt off and adjusted it 3 times, I get the same thing everytime. Suggestions?