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Transmission compatability with 150HP + engines
by
subsonic
on 12 Feb, 2008 08:18
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Like the title says. As part of my build up, I need to look at getting the power to the wheels. I am concerned that the stock transmission in my car may not be up to the task. I do not intend to be running autocross or running into 3rd gear while doing smoke shows. That being said, I would like the ability on occassion to stomp on it and wind it out with out fear of busting up my tranny or having the clutch slipping.
In the next couple of months I should have everything with the engine together.
I will have almost the exact same setup as 635Racer is running right now.
My turbo will be a bit smaller with a .48 A/R on the turbine for boost at a bit lower rpm. I will also have the 1.9 injectors with merc nozzles.
My trans is in need of a rebuild. I am wondering if what I have will be adaquate, or if an upgrade should be looked at.
I currently have a 020 code ACH transmission, made in 1985 only( :? ):
Diff 3.941
1st. 3.455
2nd. 1.944
3rd. 1.370
4th. 1.032
5th. 0.745
90mm flanges
I do not know what size flywheeel this has.
With the 3.941, I am geared fairly low. I am guessing that will help with putting the power down and removing some of the stress on the tranny.
This is going to be a daily driver. 50-100 miles per day. A good top end would be nice. Most of my commuting is done at about 75mph.
Opinions?
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#1
by
smutts
on 13 Feb, 2008 14:15
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"adaquate" is not a word I use for VW's crownwheel rivets. If the gearbox is in bits anyway, drilling out the rivets and fitting a bolt kit would be an intelligent move. Synthetic GL4 lubricant is nice too, the heavy weighted mk3 shift rods make a smoother shift too. :wink:
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#2
by
cyrus #1
on 13 Feb, 2008 18:49
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Some kind of a limited slip differential would also be a nice addition. For the budget conscious a shim kit would help too. Having the wheels breaking and then finding traction can sometimes be just as hard on the gearbox as sheer torque.
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#3
by
subsonic
on 14 Feb, 2008 05:46
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The bolt kit will happen. I have also checked out the peloquin web site a few times. Cant swing the cash for one of his sweet diffs,but was considering either the 40 or 80 percent shim kit.
All that being said. I am wondering if the ACH is the correct trans to be putting this work into. I do not know if the clutch will have the clamping power to avoid slipping. I also remember reading that later model trannys were stronger. Having a bit better top end would be nice as well.
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#4
by
VWralley
on 14 Feb, 2008 13:22
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ill tell ya right now, my na 16v (roughly 130ish hp/tq) needed a diff like non-other. once i finally dropped the cash on one it turned into a completly different car! i know its spendy, but its WELL worth the heartache!!
the rivets/diff is the weak part, besides stripping gears, which from what ive seen only happens on 250hp+ applications. if you do the shim kit with the bolt kit, and drive fairly normal, you should be fine.
the stock clutch with a 16v PP would be a good setup, mine holds great with similar power
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#5
by
subsonic
on 14 Feb, 2008 15:34
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So are ya saying your diff was the weak point in the setup?
Is there a difference in the strength of the gears themselves? I have read bits of posts where people report blowing 2nd or 3rd etc after hitting 5 grand or beyond when they are deep into the throttle and under full boost.
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#6
by
burn_your_money
on 14 Feb, 2008 22:15
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#7
by
VWralley
on 15 Feb, 2008 09:06
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yes the diff/rivets are the weak link in the tranny as far as longevity is concerned.
also the way the performance diff, quaiffe or peloquin, effects the car is amazing. the transformation is night an day. ive always said, dont drive a car with a diff if you are not ready to buy one :lol: anyone in know who has, always buys one soon after, and swears to never own a vdub without one again
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#8
by
jtanguay
on 15 Feb, 2008 09:28
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does anyone know of a dealer in Ontario?
does any transmission builder know how to install one properly? I'm guessing its a straight forward install...
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#9
by
VWralley
on 15 Feb, 2008 11:06
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pretty straight forward, but i believe a few special tools are required
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#10
by
burn_your_money
on 15 Feb, 2008 12:14
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#11
by
zaprzal
on 16 Feb, 2008 03:38
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anybody use Peloquin 020 80% shim kit? any experience?
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#12
by
hillfolk'r
on 16 Feb, 2008 15:05
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yea i like it
you can use 90 mm joints IF you leave car@ stock ride height
i asked :wink:
im runnin a tdi-m now,and it overwhelms it a little but id have a real mess if it was stock
it definately does better "posi action" in a straight line and doesnt ignite the inside front tire as bad when exiting a corner hard on the power
its a good low buck upgrade
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#13
by
subsonic
on 16 Feb, 2008 15:49
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hillfolk'r,
Have you been doing all your draggin and what not with 90mm axles? Thats what I have in it right now. Brand new A1 Cardone's right and left.
I do want to leave the car at its stock height. You think it will put more strain on the tranny by going to a 3.67 instead of the 3.94?
***, will I have to swap to 100mm to go to a 3.67?
I was looking at one of your post about clutchnet. Will those puck clutches last as long as a traditional style clutch? Would you run a red setup for a daily?
And yeah, got your message. You mentioned to me a few days ago you were working hard trying to close the dealio on the head. Go baby go. George Bush wants you to help America. Buy a new Head!!
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#14
by
RabbitJockey
on 16 Feb, 2008 16:47
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the flanges interchange, alot of people drag on the 90mm, there was a discussion on vortex before about how they don't think its a difference which axles you use, they've snapped both haha.