Author Topic: after rebuilding my pump, the car wont start  (Read 2581 times)

December 26, 2007, 04:17:19 pm

oldskool rich

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after rebuilding my pump, the car wont start
« on: December 26, 2007, 04:17:19 pm »
ive took my pump apart nearly 20 times now, i could do it in my sleep

after changing my to an 11mm pump and head, now on my aaz cam plate my engine wont start, i towed it for 2 miles, still not even a cough or a splutter, there doesnt even apear to be any combustion going on (like no smoke cuming out wen i try to start) sumone said to make sure that my cam plate isnt 180 degrees out, so i changed it 180 and then ran out of the will to live and battery, so gave up im pretty sure there was fuel cumin out the pipes, anyone got any ideas? i also used the pump timing pin, id be happy if it just ran badly tbh

also, is it possible to be 180 out with the timing, as there are only 4 cylinders surly the end of the piston is perfectly symetrical?


f6squared I.D.S.T

Reply #1December 26, 2007, 04:40:00 pm

Vincent Waldon

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Re: after rebuilding my pump, the car wont start
« Reply #1 on: December 26, 2007, 04:40:00 pm »
Standard advice applies here:

1) make sure the pump and filter are completely full... best way to do this is to apply suction at the "out" fitting on the pump until diesel pulls all the way thru the filter and pump

2) loosen the connection to #4 injector... surround it with a rag to keep fuel from pouring all over your engine, wear goggles, and crank... is fuel coming out  ??

Yes it is possible to get the pump 180 degrees out... the plunger is symmetrical but each piston is only at its TDC once per revolution of the pump so the pump and engine need to agree when this is to happen.  The drive claw can engage the cam drive in two ways... one is right, the other is 180 degrees out.  If you're getting fuel at the injectors but the engine still won't run this is a possibility.  It's aligned correctly when the keyway for the drive sprocket and the small intake holes on the high-pressure delivery piston are both facing the same way.

Is this the pump with the ground plunger ?  Any other modifications ?
Vince

Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2001 silver TDI Jetta Malone Stage 1.5 , 2001 blue TDI Jetta SBIII 216s Malone Stage 3, 1970 Bay Window bus

Gone but not forgotten: 1969/1971 Beetles, 1969/1974 Westies, 1979 Rabbit, 1986 TD Jetta, 1992 gas Jetta, 1994 TD Jetta

Reply #2December 26, 2007, 05:42:40 pm

oldskool rich

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after rebuilding my pump, the car wont start
« Reply #2 on: December 26, 2007, 05:42:40 pm »
ye its the one with grinded piston foot, yes i primed the pump with my mouth, 2 mouth fulls of diesel = enough fuel in the pump,

fuel was cuming out of number 1

i also hav 1.6 injectors + mec nozzels + gov mod

i still dont understand how to get the cam plate round the right way, i still thort it wud splutter a bit if the timing was totaly messed up

so do you think it should work now i span the plate round 180?


f6squared I.D.S.T

Reply #3December 26, 2007, 07:15:25 pm

jtanguay

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after rebuilding my pump, the car wont start
« Reply #3 on: December 26, 2007, 07:15:25 pm »
Quote from: "oldskool rich"
i primed the pump with my mouth, 2 mouth fulls of diesel = enough fuel in the pump


 :shock:

what have you set the timing to? no black smoke or white smoke at all coming out the tailpipe?


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Reply #4December 26, 2007, 07:39:33 pm

Tintin

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after rebuilding my pump, the car wont start
« Reply #4 on: December 26, 2007, 07:39:33 pm »
1: With a stock pump without any modification and the same adjustment, if the came plate is mounted 180 out, the motor starts but runs very badly with much throttle and a lot of white smoke.

2: With a different pump head, according to the type of the head, It's possible that you must adjust fuel screw more screwed, screws a turn at a time until the engine start.

3: The drive pin in a smaller-foot-came-plate is smaller than the pin in the big-foot-came-plate, I never tested but I think that your modified plunger have some minus degrée offset in relation with the came plate, a head-rotor have a precise machining.

Reply #5December 27, 2007, 06:03:26 pm

oldskool rich

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after rebuilding my pump, the car wont start
« Reply #5 on: December 27, 2007, 06:03:26 pm »
i havent had it on a gauge yet, just used the timing pin.
hmmm, thinking about it, the fuel screw was bearly even in, i was on full thottle trying to get it started, but if the control sleeve is in the wrong place maybe it wasnt getting enough fuel to fire up, coupled with the possibility of timing being 180 out. im gona giv it my best shot tomoz but ive got a bad feeling about this :(

i have bad luck with engines, i was gona reuse my old block to put in my mk1 rocco but last night i discoverd that i have snapped a crank bearing cap :roll: after id spent days cleaning it :cry:  now its scrap


f6squared I.D.S.T

Reply #6February 15, 2008, 08:58:09 pm

rabbitman

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after rebuilding my pump, the car wont start
« Reply #6 on: February 15, 2008, 08:58:09 pm »
Howd it go? :P  :P
'82 Rabbit, I put on a euro vnt-15, 2.25" DP, 2.5" exhaust, the result.....it whistled.

I removed the turbo, made a toilet bowl 2.5" DP, the result....it was deafening. Now it has a homemade muffler up front and a thrush in the rear, the result.....less loud.
Watch: AGENDA, GRINDING AMERICA DOWN

Reply #7February 15, 2008, 10:16:39 pm

tdi4by

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after rebuilding my pump, the car wont start
« Reply #7 on: February 15, 2008, 10:16:39 pm »
Make sure there is power at the shut off solenoid.
1992 1.6 ECO with a TD pump. T-3 .48ar,
GTD Nozzles-I'm lovin it!!!, 47MPG mixed driving last tank.

2006 CRD Jeep Liberty with some stuff.....
Only 23MPG's..