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Timing Gauge
by
chasingrabbitsvw
on 08 Dec, 2007 10:56
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#1
by
blkboostedtruck
on 08 Dec, 2007 11:27
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I'll try and help you? screw the shaft in first of the gage! then slide the gage in the shaft watch the needel move on the gage! you want a preload on the gage at least 1.50mm of movement dont worry what it says on it you just need about that much needle movment! you will zero it out later! now once you have done that! remove the alignment pin from the pump and remove the cam lock plate! rotate the engine backwards till the needle on your gage stops moving! "zero" your gage out then rotate the engine back to where you had it at TDC look to see whee your needle says? adjust your pump towards or away from the block to get your required timing you want 0.95 to 1.00 would be fine with your N/A! I hope i help you let me know if i did? if you have any questions feel free to ask!
thanks Duane
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#2
by
Vincent Waldon
on 08 Dec, 2007 12:09
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Couple of other things to watch for:
1) make sure your cold start handle is pushed all the way in before you start
2) start with your engine at exactly TDC for #1.
TDC means:
- both lobes of #1 are pointing up
- you have the cam locked with a locking plate
- the flywheel is pointing at exactly TDC using the inspection hole at the top of the tranny
(as an aside... the picture of your engine shows that it's *not* at TDC)
If you can't lock the cam *and* have the flywheel at exactly TDC then the cam timing is off... to adjust you loosen the big bolt on the cam sprocket so that it can rotate by itself with the cam locked.
After removing the cam lock its as Duane says:
- insert the gauge and give it a couple of mm of preload so that it will travel with the plunger
- rotate the engine backwards (counterclockwise) until the dial indicator stops moving... will be about 45 degrees or so... rotate a bit more just to convince yourself it really has stopped
- zero the gauge
- rotate the engine forwards (clockwise) to exactly TDC by watching the flywheel
- read the timing setting on the gauge. Most people go for something around 0.9mm for a non-turbo.
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#3
by
chasingrabbitsvw
on 08 Dec, 2007 12:30
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How do you zero the gauge? Im having trouble with this step. if i unscew it, it comes out before it hits 1-mm.
The fly wheel is at TDC, so my cam timing is off then. Thanx for catching that. :wink:
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#4
by
blkboostedtruck
on 08 Dec, 2007 13:03
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Vince really explains very well! but maybe if this will help give me a call and i can ask you some questions about your gage and we can work you through on how it works! the gage face rotates so you can zero it! but i need to know how your gage seperates from the shaft? mine has a little thumb screw that locks th gage on the shaft! and i don't see that on yours?
414-840-1395
thanks Duane
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#5
by
chasingrabbitsvw
on 08 Dec, 2007 13:18
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I loosened the cam sprocket bolt and locked the cam shaft. I cant seem to turn the crank though, the cam sprocket dosent want to move free of the cam.
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#6
by
chasingrabbitsvw
on 08 Dec, 2007 13:23
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I loosened the cam sprocket bolt and locked the cam shaft. I cant seem to turn the crank though, the cam sprocket dosent want to move free of the cam.
If you look at the top of the gauge there is a metal shaft that turns holding the gauge to the shaft. I bet if i loosen that some, the gauge itself will unscrew more to zero it out.
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#7
by
blkboostedtruck
on 08 Dec, 2007 13:41
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see the thumb screw on the top 2o'clock of the gage? thats what you loosen so you can rotate the lense of the gage to zero it out!
the shaft and gage must seperate i think yours must twistlock? seperate the two! then screw the shaft into the pump then slide the gage into the shaft and preload it while everything is on TDC the long needle will make a complete revolution and a half and the little needle should be on 1! as soon as you learn how your gage works it will be easy! hope that helps?
thanks Duane
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#8
by
chasingrabbitsvw
on 08 Dec, 2007 14:21
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that all makes sense. thank you. the cam sprocket still wont turn independently with the cam locked.
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#9
by
Vincent Waldon
on 08 Dec, 2007 15:17
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that all makes sense. thank you. the cam sprocket still wont turn independently with the cam locked.
If the engine is at TDC and the cam locks perfectly then you can remove the cam lock and carry on with the procedure.
If not, you loosen the sprocket bolt a turn or so, loosen the sprocket with a puller or rubber hammer, and get the engine back to TDC. Then tighten the sprocket bolt. DON'T use the cam lock as a means to hold the camshaft in place while loosening or tightening the sprocket bolt... it can easily shatter. Channel lock pliers on the sides of a cam lobe work well, or some means of locking the pulley thru its holes.
Remove the cam lock, and carry on with the timing procedure.
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#10
by
chasingrabbitsvw
on 09 Dec, 2007 11:16
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Ok, so now I have the timing mark on the flywheel at TDC and the cams lined up in the right position. i screwed the gauge in and set it to 2.5 mm. I turned the engine counter clockwise. I keep turning and the gauge does not stop until the crank wont turn anymore. What am I doing wrong?
So since the valve timing was off do you think I'll find some bent valves when I pull the head?
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#11
by
vegfuel
on 16 Dec, 2007 18:00
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hey im having the same trouble with my rabbit timing. My question is which way is clock-wise and which is counter-clockwise? Away from me or towards me? And how the heck do you turn your engine? I just do it with a socket wrench on the the cam spocket bolt :oops:. By doing this I can't turn the engine away from me with out unscrewing the nut that holds the sprocket on!!
Also, how the heck do you rotate the pump? My manual tells me just to loosen three bolts! But don't you have to pretty much take off the injector lines as well?
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#12
by
jimfoo
on 16 Dec, 2007 19:40
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If the crank won't turn any more then something is wrong unless you mean it won't turn because of compression if you are turning it with a short ratchet.
You should be able to turn it completely over.
Ok, so now I have the timing mark on the flywheel at TDC and the cams lined up in the right position. i screwed the gauge in and set it to 2.5 mm. I turned the engine counter clockwise. I keep turning and the gauge does not stop until the crank wont turn anymore. What am I doing wrong?
So since the valve timing was off do you think I'll find some bent valves when I pull the head?
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#13
by
jimfoo
on 16 Dec, 2007 19:44
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Looking at the crank pulley. Turn it with a socket and ratchet or breaker bar.
Turn the CRANK sprocket, not the cam. The pump has 3 bolts on the front and one underneath on the back. You should loosen the injector lines a little, but you don't need to remove them.
hey im having the same trouble with my rabbit timing. My question is which way is clock-wise and which is counter-clockwise? Away from me or towards me? And how the heck do you turn your engine? I just do it with a socket wrench on the the cam spocket bolt :oops:. By doing this I can't turn the engine away from me with out unscrewing the nut that holds the sprocket on!!
Also, how the heck do you rotate the pump? My manual tells me just to loosen three bolts! But don't you have to pretty much take off the injector lines as well?
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#14
by
jtanguay
on 16 Dec, 2007 19:49
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My question is which way is clock-wise and which is counter-clockwise? quote]
just look at a clock. make note of which way the arm moves. that is where the term clockwise comes from. and counter is obviously the opposite. the orientation is always determined by the face of the bolt/nut being tightened/removed. so if you're facing the bolt/nut then clockwise is clockwise, but if you aren't (such as upside down) its the other way. its a little hard to explain, but i'll use the oil filter as an example. from the top its the opposite from clockwise... since the oil filter is hanging down.
