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#150
by
jimfoo
on 19 Mar, 2008 19:04
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Cool. So did you have to time the IP differently than the IDI?
Will this be an easy job for Giles (I think you said you were sending your pump to Giles?) to set-up? I am just wondering if this engine would just be treated like any 1Z. etc m-TDI or if he needs to have the engine for tuning? Does Giles even do m-TDI pumps?
I was going to send it to Giles, but was running low on money and really needed to get the car running, so I just worked on it myself. Giles will do M-TDI pumps, and he doesn't need the engine, just needs to know about what you plan to do with it. I will probably save up for a spare pump and send it to him when I get the money. As far as timing, I just set it until it didn't sound too noisy, but I'm sure it isn't optimal. It does start easily however. It's hard to get a gauge on it, but I know it's way more than .040".
That's why I got a transducer to use a timing light, so I can more easily time it, if I can ever find out how many degrees it should be set at.
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#151
by
Vincent Waldon
on 19 Mar, 2008 23:27
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I've read in a couple places that 12 degrees BTDC is the magic number. Hopefully someone with a timing light will chime in.
While rebuilding my AAZ I punched a timing mark on the flywheel at 12 BTDC in breathless anticipation !
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#152
by
jimfoo
on 20 Mar, 2008 19:07
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I sort of got my timing light to work. By accident, I found a really weird way to hook it up where it would flash, although it was flashing too much and the mark would jump around a bit. However I was able to fairly confidently say it was at 4 BTDC. I advanced it to 11 BTDC, although I haven't driven it yet. It still sounded ok, not too clattery, so hopefully that will do. The transducer puts out only about .5v according to my meter, although I guess if there is a fast spike, I may not be reading it. The odd way I ended up hooking it up was the lights + terminak on the battery +, the lights - terminal on the un-energized terminal of my fan relay, I guess grounding it through the fan, and the transducer wire to one of the pickup terminals on the light. It wouldn't flash at all if I grounded the light to a regular ground, or if I grounded the other pickup terminal on my light.
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#153
by
Vincent Waldon
on 20 Mar, 2008 20:52
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Cool !
BTW, the timing light *may* move around for real... if your pump is worn... kinda like a worn distributor on a gasser. Lots of wear... lots of movement.
My Tiny Tach transducer showed up so the experimentation with a home-made timing light adapter begins. The transducer will put out a very very short spike... if I can I'll post pictures for the geeks out there like me.
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#154
by
rallydiesel
on 20 Mar, 2008 21:54
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How does a timing light work on a diesel? Is it reading the voltage spike from the alternator?
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#155
by
Vincent Waldon
on 20 Mar, 2008 21:59
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Couple of different methods:
- a piezo transducer is clamped to the #1 or #4 injector line... it detects the small expansion in the line when the injector is fired and drives the timing light.
- #1 or #4 glowplug gets removed and replaced with a translucent cover and a photo detector. The photo detector sees the flame front and drives the timing light.
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#156
by
jimfoo
on 20 Mar, 2008 22:11
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Cool !
BTW, the timing light *may* move around for real... if your pump is worn... kinda like a worn distributor on a gasser. Lots of wear... lots of movement.
My Tiny Tach transducer showed up so the experimentation with a home-made timing light adapter begins. The transducer will put out a very very short spike... if I can I'll post pictures for the geeks out there like me.
Yeah, I don't have a scope, so seeing the actual waveform might help me make a better adapter.
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#157
by
jimfoo
on 22 Mar, 2008 10:59
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I was a little worried yesterday. I noticed my temp was a lot warmer than it had generally been, although I still don't think my fan came on. Then I remembered I advanced the timing, probably causing more heat in the engine as opposed to the exhaust. I was thinking it was way too early for a blown head gasket. :lol:
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#158
by
jimfoo
on 23 Mar, 2008 00:26
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I decided 11 degrees is too advanced with the ALFB (timing advance solenoid) energized. It was pretty loud, and my mileage went down some. With the wire off the terminal, it quieted back down, temp went down some, and it appears to be getting better mileage, though I'm just going by how much the gauge has moved. I will probably leave the timing alone now until I get it on a dyno some day.
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#159
by
Vincent Waldon
on 24 Mar, 2008 01:32
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Cool !
BTW, the timing light *may* move around for real... if your pump is worn... kinda like a worn distributor on a gasser. Lots of wear... lots of movement.
My Tiny Tach transducer showed up so the experimentation with a home-made timing light adapter begins. The transducer will put out a very very short spike... if I can I'll post pictures for the geeks out there like me.
Yeah, I don't have a scope, so seeing the actual waveform might help me make a better adapter.
Posted a few pictures in the General forum under a new topic.
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#160
by
rallydiesel
on 11 Apr, 2008 00:38
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Hey Jimfoo, are ALH pistons the same as 1Z? Any idea if a TDI crankshaft would work in the AAZ? And finally, are the rods from an ALH the same dimensions as from an AAZ? What is the difference between the AHU and 1Z anyways?
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#161
by
mrhutch
on 17 Apr, 2008 21:07
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AAZ will take a TDI crank
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#162
by
rallydiesel
on 17 Apr, 2008 21:59
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So if I were to use the AAZ rods, what TDI pistons can I use? I have read that there are a couple different wrist pin diameters. Anyone know what diameter pin the AAZ cranks have? Jimfoo, did you use 1Z or AHU pistons?
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#163
by
jimfoo
on 17 Apr, 2008 22:14
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I believe 1Z and AHU and ALH are all the same dimension wise. I just used some of Prothe's. ALH pistons are supposed to be stronger though. I believe mine were 26mm, the same as the AAZ.
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#164
by
jtanguay
on 18 Apr, 2008 07:50
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ALH and 1Z/AHU pistons are the same except for the location of the top compression ring. This was rumored to be done for emissions reasons.
I finally have 1.6 TDI pistons. I would love to market them now, but there is a lot of research to be done before I can start selling any kind of TDI conversion package. But the good news is that they are 76.48mm wide and the same height above the piston pin as the 1.6 diesel piston.
sorry for the thread jack, but the conversion requires sleeving of the block, so it is a bit more involved than just putting everything back together right? is there a quick and dirty way of sleeving a block? maybe some engines won't need to be sleeved?