Author Topic: mech 1.6TD headgasket woes (Read 6247 times)

the4ork · « **on:** November 12, 2007, 12:25:07 am »

so i know these headgaskets are a quirky thing on the 1.6 mechanical engines... 1 notch, 3 notch, 50 notch?

i have no idea....

but whatever one im suposed to get i need it to hold up to some serious boost.... so i guess my question would be whats the best headgasket for an 82' mechanical 1.6 n/a + turbo?

how much boost can i run through it daily? if i use studs

is there any alternatives that you guys have tried? copper headgasket + studs?

Ziptar · « **Reply #1 on:** November 12, 2007, 01:22:28 am »

Those that are pushing alot of boost / HP usually go with studs and a 1.9L TD metal head gasket.

jimfoo · « **Reply #2 on:** November 12, 2007, 07:28:58 am »

But has anyone successfully blocked the oil passages even at regular boost, let alone high boost? That seemed to be the problem with the mech block and metal gaskets.

carrizog60 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 12, 2007, 07:58:10 am »

for now my setup is working.
i have a leack but i think its from the hose that comes from the engine as the block as a diferent color below the hose... :?:

cowboybootlegger · « **Reply #4 on:** November 12, 2007, 09:30:26 am »

I've been using the stock head gasket (german manufacture, 3 notch)
and ARP head studs (part# 251-4701) torqued to 130 ft-lbs (using 30wt oil as thread lube) in my 1.6TD running a T3 turbo (intercooled) and 25psi max boost. I've seen no problems as of yet with this setup, although i wouldn't run more than 10-15 psi boost on the N/A block because of it's lack of oil jets to cool the piston skirts. (I know you've heard that before

) I'm also very careful about watching all my guages- boost, pyrometer, engine and oil temp, and i run a 180 degree thermostat and a 2 speed rad fan switch, to help keep coolant system pressures in check. It's also important to have the head checked for any warpage, and if it's not too thin, have it milled a few thousandths, just to clean it up and make it as smooth as possible to encourage a good seal with the block. Having said all that, i plan to try the metal headgasket mod if/when mine goes, but i'll do it carefully, and only because i plan on running more boost further down the road than i am now. :wink:
Also, if you're unsure about what notch value to use, go 3 notch, it's the safest route, and if you lower your compression slightly by using too thick of a gasket, it will prolly work in your favor anyway because of the turbo.
(All you seasoned veterans correct me if i'm wrong) :lol:
Good luck with your build!

Caleb

the4ork · « **Reply #5 on:** November 19, 2007, 01:22:31 am »

what are the differences between the notches? and what is a notch?

has anyone experimented using an after market head gasket? like a copper gasket?

jtanguay · « **Reply #6 on:** November 19, 2007, 04:51:39 am »

Quote from: "the4ork"

what are the differences between the notches? and what is a notch?

has anyone experimented using an after market head gasket? like a copper gasket?

the notches indicate the thickness of the head gasket. the notches are located at the front of the engine where the injection pump sits. its there to help make it idiot proof.

3 sizes depending on the piston protrusion (you get the measurement from the piston that sticks out the highest) if the wrong gasket is chosen, you will get rough cold starts, but if your compression is good it won't be that bad. the piston protrusion measurements are located in the Bentley manual, and on some websites.

as for the metal HG there's a few people who have tried doing it with the mech engines with great success. all it is, is an oil return hole. some use pieces of rubber to block it. do some searches and you should come up with it.

CoolAirVw · « **Reply #7 on:** November 20, 2007, 06:29:24 pm »

Notches here.

jimfoo · « **Reply #8 on:** November 21, 2007, 08:19:50 am »

Sometimes they are holes instead of notches.